Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

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Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby rgambord » Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:59 pm

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage caused by exceeding rated towing capacity. This post represents my opinion, and is a fun physics exercise. I used Wolfram Alpha to do the calculations and unit conversions. You can copy and paste the following formulas into wolfram alpha and enter your own vehicle and trailer data to generate results.

Keep in mind that with towing, just because your engine can make 200 ft-lbs of torque doesn't mean it was designed to do it continuously. Your engine and transmission will need to dissipate a lot of heat. Towing your vehicle's max capacity up a mountain at high noon in the middle of summer is a surefire way to blow or crack expensive parts of your drivetrain. Hot engine = hot oil, means you need to check and replace it more frequently if you're towing heavy loads. Also, just because I can put a class III hitch on my crosstrek, and just because the calculations say I can pull 3000 lbs up a steep hill, doesn't mean the body of the car can handle that sort of stress. Use common sense. When pulling uphill, stop when necessary to let things cool down. Also, if my calculations show that I can pull 3000 lbs up a 30% grade at 23 mph, that means I literally cannot go any faster or slower than that, without sliding down the high or low RPM ends of the torque curve. A realistically climbable grade is going to be MUCH LESS than the calculations show, especially if you might need to start from a dead stop (then the limiting factor is your poor, soon to be fried, clutch).

Keep in mind that with braking, things can really heat up. Just because your tires can stop quickly enough, doesn't mean your brakes can dissipate the energy quickly enough. Brake energy dissipation is very complicated, and dependent on ambient air temperature, wheel design (open spoke = better airflow), vehicle speed, wind, etc. Also, under-inflated tires get very, very hot from constant sidewall flex, and coupled with intensive braking, can cause a blowout. When driving downhill for long periods of time, engine braking helps keep your brakes cooler, in case you suddenly need them. It also saves gas in modern cars, which will cut the injectors when the engine is driven by the wheels.


This is a worked example for my vehicle and a proposed trailer weighing 3000 lbs. I will be calculating maximum load capability, and stopping distance.

Here's a list of numerical values you will need:
µs = Coefficient of static friction for tires = 0.7 dry road; 0.4 wet road
M1 = Curb weight of tow vehicle + cargo = 3,109 lbs + 500 lbs = 3609 lbs (1637 kg)
M2 = Mass of trailer = 3000 lbs (1361 kg)

T = peak torque = 145 lb-ft (196 N m)
ω = peak rpm = 4200 rpm (70 s^-1)
G = lowest gear ratio = 4.444 (Drive axle ratio) * 3.545 (transmission) = 15.754
R = driven tire radius = 14.5 inches (36.83 cm)

Ok, got all of that? Great! Let's do some calculations

For determining the maximum grade your vehicle can climb, use the following formulas:
First, determine the amount of force you can provide
Code: Select all
F1 = T * G / R = 196 N m * 15.754 / 36.83 cm = 8384 N

Then, the weight of the vehicle and trailer
Code: Select all
F2 = (M1 + M2) * 9.81 m/s^2 = (1637 kg + 1361 kg) * 9.81 m/s^2 = 29410 N

Finally, we can determine the maximum grade the rig can ascend under optimum conditions
Code: Select all
sin^-1(F1/F2) = sin^-1(8384 N/29410 N) = 16.56 degrees

16.56 degrees is a 30% grade, so that's pretty steep!

You can also determine exactly how fast you need to be going to make it up that hill
Code: Select all
ω / G * 2πR = 70 s^-1 / 15.754 * 2 * 3.142 * 36.83 cm = 23 mph (37 km/h)



More importantly, we need to examine stopping distances:
*Note: Keep in mind, these calculations do not factor in air resistance, or rolling resistance, so actual stopping distances will be a little bit lower than the calculations (stop sooner). However, air resistance accounts for less than 6% of braking force at 70 mph, and drops off exponentially as the vehicle slows down.

Scenario 1: No trailer brakes
First, we need to calculate braking force:
Code: Select all
Fb = (M1 + (M2/10)) * 9.81 m/s^2 * µs = (1637 kg  + (1361 kg /10)) * 9.81 m/s^2 * 0.7 = 12176 N

Then, we can relate vehicle velocity (Vi) and stopping distance (D) as follows:
Code: Select all
((M1 + M2) * Vi / Fb) * Vi/2 = D
1/2 * (1637 kg + 1361 kg) / 12176 N * Vi^2 = D

If we plug in 60 mph, we get 290 feet of stopping distance! That's quite normal and acceptable at 60 mph!


Scenario 2: Trailer brakes
This is where things might surprise you a little bit. The stopping distance, with trailer brakes, is identical to the stopping distance of the vehicle, without a trailer attached. This is because, when all wheels have brakes, the frictional force that can be applied is proportional to the total mass, and so is momentum. Therefore, the formula becomes very simple:
Code: Select all
1/2 / (9.81 m/s^2) / 0.7 * (Vi)^2 = D

At 60 mph, this is 172 feet of stopping distance. In fact, all vehicles can stop in 172 feet at 60 mph. The limiting factors are tire integrity and brake fade.
Last edited by rgambord on Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby Gage » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:16 am

Damn, I didn't know that. Looks like I have been doing it all wrong for all these years. It's all your fault for not posting this valuable information much earlier. :o
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby Redneck Teepee » Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:34 am

:? :? :? :? :?
I usually don't have a calculator with me or the time to use it while driving, so I just normally follow at a safe distance with plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front of me with consideration for driving conditions and speed. It has worked very well for almost 50 years now.
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby Gold5one » Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:52 am

Redneck Teepee wrote:--- I just normally follow at a safe distance with plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front of me with consideration for driving conditions and speed. It has worked very well for almost 50 years now.

I've had my build on the road one time going to get it weighted (30 miles)- I checked my braking distance and mentally decided how much of a safety margin I needed- I'm doing 50 in a 55 zone, 4 lane highway, cars begin passing me, then a car passes me and moves over into that safety zone space--sooo, I take my foot off the gas and make some more room, then a driver promptly sees that as his new space- and he moves over, right in front of me- :cry:

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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby rgambord » Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:00 am

This post is just an extension of this one: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60970&p=1093940#p1093940

The reason I put together this info is if someone wants to get a high fuel economy car, but wants to be sure it can tow a small trailer. The answer is probably yes, but it's best to do the math and make sure you're comfortable with it.



For example, you might find it a bit surprising that the 4 speed, 74 lb-ft peak, Mitsubishi Mirage (tin can on wheels with a lawnmower engine strapped to it) can tow 2,600 pounds with brakes. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby deleted » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:22 pm

rgambord wrote:At 60 mph, this is 172 feet of stopping distance. In fact, all vehicles can stop in 172 feet at 60 mph. The limiting factors are tire integrity and brake fade.


OK. I understood this part at the end. :thumbsup:

Now I just have to divide the average length of a car into 172 to have an idea of how far 172 feet is so I know how much room to absolutely keep in front of me assuming I have optimal tire integrity and maybe add a couple of car lengths for brake fade :thinking:

You are a true mathlete rgambord! :applause:
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby rgambord » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:57 pm

Now I just have to divide the average length of a car by 172 to have an idea of how far 172 feet is so I know how much room to absolutely keep in front of me assuming I have optimal tire integrity and maybe add a couple of car lengths for brake fade :thinking:


You don't actually need to do that... The car in front of you takes 172 feet to stop, as well. You just have to follow far enough back to account for perception-reaction time, which is no more than 1.5 seconds, unless you're drunk. That's why the dmv got rid of car length recommendations, and now uses following lag time. 2 seconds is the minimum recommendation, I usually follow at 3 seconds.
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby deleted » Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:20 pm

rgambord wrote:You don't actually need to do that... The car in front of you takes 172 feet to stop, as well. You just have to follow far enough back to account for perception-reaction time, which is no more than 1.5 seconds, unless you're drunk. That's why the dmv got rid of car length recommendations, and now uses following lag time. 2 seconds is the minimum recommendation, I usually follow at 3 seconds.


I can do that! :thumbsup: Thanks for the tip. After being in a couple of bad accidents (not drunk or at fault :R ) I leave even more than 3 seconds unless someone's just cut me off. . . Then I slow down to create my gap again.
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby PaulC » Fri Feb 20, 2015 4:09 pm

You don't actually need to do that... The car in front of you takes 172 feet to stop, as well. You just have to follow far enough back to account for perception-reaction time, which is no more than 1.5 seconds, unless you're drunk. That's why the dmv got rid of car length recommendations, and now uses following lag time. 2 seconds is the minimum recommendation, I usually follow at 3 seconds.[/quote]

To me, that statement negates all the mathematical equations in the driving/braking field. 8)
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby rgambord » Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:31 pm

PaulC wrote:You don't actually need to do that... The car in front of you takes 172 feet to stop, as well. You just have to follow far enough back to account for perception-reaction time, which is no more than 1.5 seconds, unless you're drunk. That's why the dmv got rid of car length recommendations, and now uses following lag time. 2 seconds is the minimum recommendation, I usually follow at 3 seconds.


To me, that statement negates all the mathematical equations in the driving/braking field. 8)
Cheers
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(Only if you have brakes)
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby Gage » Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:55 pm

I really do it the simple way with common sense and allow 3 sec spacing to the car in front of me when I’m not towing and for the most part 4 sec when I'm towing. The only time I didn't go by that rule is when I used to race. :lol:
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby PaulC » Fri Feb 20, 2015 6:25 pm

rgambord wrote:
PaulC wrote:You don't actually need to do that... The car in front of you takes 172 feet to stop, as well. You just have to follow far enough back to account for perception-reaction time, which is no more than 1.5 seconds, unless you're drunk. That's why the dmv got rid of car length recommendations, and now uses following lag time. 2 seconds is the minimum recommendation, I usually follow at 3 seconds.


To me, that statement negates all the mathematical equations in the driving/braking field. 8)
Cheers
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(Only if you have brakes)[/quote]

No brakes !!! I like Gage's rule myself
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby tony.latham » Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:19 pm

I don't think this RV can go 60.

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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby Jim.M » Wed Feb 25, 2015 11:22 am

rgambord wrote:At 60 mph, this is 172 feet of stopping distance. In fact, all vehicles can stop in 172 feet at 60 mph. The limiting factors are tire integrity and brake fade.


actually, the 'real' limiting factor that people are going to run into (pardon the pun) is your coefficient of friction. I doubt that 'brake fade' is even applicable to the scenario I think you're describing (a single emergency stop).

some real-world stopping distances under 'best conditions' (new car, broken-in tires, presumably nicely-surfaced test track) from Consumer Reports. Different contact patch sizes, tires, tread, etc all result in pretty wide variation in brake distance.

also, a trailer with brakes might have the exact same braking distance as the tow vehicle, or (more likely) will have a longer or shorter braking distance. Saying that towing with trailer brakes has no effect on the combined vehicles' braking distance is only accurate for a single case (tow vehicle and trailer have exactly the same braking distance).

hooking the trailer to the tow vehicle, and braking... now you have a lot more load on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, and proportionally less on the front axle; how does this affect braking distance if the rear axle of a front-wheel-drive tow vehicle has brakes undersized compared to the front axle?
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Re: Towing capacity and stopping distance calculation guide

Postby rgambord » Wed Feb 25, 2015 12:39 pm

Jim.M wrote:
rgambord wrote:At 60 mph, this is 172 feet of stopping distance. In fact, all vehicles can stop in 172 feet at 60 mph. The limiting factors are tire integrity and brake fade.


actually, the 'real' limiting factor that people are going to run into (pardon the pun) is your coefficient of friction. I doubt that 'brake fade' is even applicable to the scenario I think you're describing (a single emergency stop).

some real-world stopping distances under 'best conditions' (new car, broken-in tires, presumably nicely-surfaced test track) from Consumer Reports. Different contact patch sizes, tires, tread, etc all result in pretty wide variation in brake distance.

also, a trailer with brakes might have the exact same braking distance as the tow vehicle, or (more likely) will have a longer or shorter braking distance. Saying that towing with trailer brakes has no effect on the combined vehicles' braking distance is only accurate for a single case (tow vehicle and trailer have exactly the same braking distance).

hooking the trailer to the tow vehicle, and braking... now you have a lot more load on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, and proportionally less on the front axle; how does this affect braking distance if the rear axle of a front-wheel-drive tow vehicle has brakes undersized compared to the front axle?


The coefficient of friction is generally considered to be 0.7 in accident reconstruction, but can be much higher than that with different tires (for example, perfectly smooth tires have much higher coefficients than knobby ones on smooth pavement. It's much better to overestimate stopping distances. Contact patch size has no effect on friction and cancels out in the force calculations.

You do need to take weight distribution into account to avoid locking up lightly loaded wheels. This is done automatically in many newer cars with electronic brake force distribution systems, and old cars use ABS. In addition, you must also calibrate your trailer brakes for the amount of weight in the trailer, which is why trailer brake controllers have calibration knobs.

If your tow vehicle has properly calibrated brakes, in that they come as close to locking as possible without locking, then the stopping distance is the same, save for minor variations in tire friction. I don't know how to answer your question at the end. My car has identically sized brakes on front and back.
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