Air conditioning install?

[noseoil]

Perhaps this is already covered, but I can't remember & can't find the links, so I'll ask here. If there's a link, please let me know.

The problem I'm having is that there's a location I need to use for a 5000 BTU A/C unit, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to do the installation without future problems, with air & water leakage, bug infiltration & a tracking system. I'm sort of stuck with the front-mounted location because of weight distribution (battery, ice chest & stove in the galley). I need the weight of the steel tongue box, storage & A/C unit as a counter-balance to the galley weight.

The A/C unit will be located in the headboard area, above the existing tongue box (box is 22" tall). Here's a picture of how it will look, imagine a unit sitting just above the tongue box. The side panel has a block at about the the height of the A/C shelf, but notice how narrow the actual shelf will be, about 7 1/2" deep, front to back.



The A/C unit itself is about 14 1/2" deep (front to back), so the "stowed for travel" position will actually be slid into the sleeping area about 6"-7" and for use, it will have to track forward that same amount so it isn't a head-knocker. The "front" of the unit will slide over the tongue box lid for naps & sleeping at night, it must have a drip system for condensation, clearance for the airflow to outside air for the heat exchange, and be sealed up when traveling. Don't want any leaks from air, water, driven rain or dust from dirt roads while pulling.

I'm having trouble wrapping my head around all of this and have been pondering a solution. I can picture an outside cover which hinges at the top to act as a sealed box for travel (I've seen that one before), but the tracking, water drip for condensation, seals & water proofing for actual use are what's keeping me confused. If it's running & there's a rain storm at night, what then? It's the proverbial 10# of you-know-what in a 5# bag. Your input is valued on this one. Pictures for solutions would be most helpful. Thanks for your replies, tim

[Vedette]

I have been struggling and researching the same problem??
The solution I have come up with, is to leave out the Air conditioning until that future "Millionaire" invents, perfects, and markets, the Perfect Teardrop compatible (small) unit for under $500.00!
Brian

[noseoil]

Yep, that's a good solution, but I would be faced with a mutiny from my better half if I leave out the A/C on this trailer..... It was one thing she wouldn't compromise on & can't say as I blame her, with temps being what they are in the summer. I have several pages of drawings now, but am still not convinced I have a good solution.

[Socal Tom]

Unless you know that you need A/C for every trip, I would consider the "hacking the Fridgidaire" method. Alternatively, you could build it into a lower section of the tongue, and build some "ducting" into the walls to route the air where you want it.
Tom

[ibbowhunting]

how are the a/c installed on a little guy teardrops, the only info I see online is the vents out the sides anybody got more info how there doing theres

[Vedette]

I think the Little Guys use an air conditioner that sits next to the trailer and plugs into the permanently installed inlet and outlet.
But, it is stored and transported separate from the TD.
??????????????
Brian

[Mary C]

knowing that camping in humid 90 degree plus weather i think i would prefer an air conditioner. First, I have used a window airconditioner in heavy rainfall so rain does not interfear with operation, second the tray under the part that is outside collects the water, supposedly the heat generated by the motor blows on it and causes it to dry up. in extra humid weather the water will just over flow and go towards the ground. When I was building my front box I got the manufactures reccomendation for the angle for the ac so I built the front box top at that angle. I plan to cut a hole in the front and seal it up around the AC. I will make a foam box to go around it for when it is not in use and when traveling.

Mary C.

[GPW]

We just cut a hole in the wall for the small AC to fit .... Carried separately from the trailer (pickup bed) Installed when needed. The rest of the time a big foam plug fills the AC space. AC absolutely necessary here...

[ibbowhunting]

I think the Little Guys use an air conditioner that sits next to the trailer and plugs into the permanently installed inlet and outlet.
But, it is stored and transported separate from the TD.
??????????????
Brian

the pictures of new ones show a/c unit in the bulkhead of the galley I believe ? and I also seen in a walk around video an a/c vent on both sides

[Wolfpack]

the pictures of new ones show a/c unit in the bulkhead of the galley I believe ? and I also seen in a walk around video an a/c vent on both sides

That's another option, and considering the mentioned weight/balance concerns, have the battery in front of the axle.

[JaggedEdges]

I have a feeling a 5000 BTU won't help much with humidity inside a teardrop. It won't run long enough (Presuming you set the thermostat to 20c) By my spitball, you could have a black painted TD in death valley and a 5000BTU would be powerful enough to use the thing as an ice cream freezer, with any small amount of insulation.

These will do about a 12x12 room, 8 foot ceiling in a house, that's about 1150 cubic feet... how many cubes in an average drop, about 120?

But I know right, you can get them for $80 on sale.

Thinking of this conundrum, I did some digging, and came up with this little bugger..
https://www.plasmacoolstore.com/Persona ... ion=US#buy

However, it does need some re-engineering. Note that it's a bit of a dumb product, in that it blows the hot air out the back, into the same room, so it's kind of a spot cooler. Also contains a drip bucket which makes it bigger than it needs to be. However, I see nice possibilities there, stick in kitchen unit with it's cold side in. It sucks about 250W, so it might run off a decent sized leisure battery and inverter for one night of cool sleeping, 50% duty cycle, which I think would be a darn hot night, typically it would probably run 25-30. If you've got 300W of solar, you could do that night on night. Or use it for an hour a night to get comfortable to sleep for a week.

Anyway, not saying you're wrong for wanting to use best locally available for cheap, just saying "Here's an idea" for sub arm+leg cost unit that's better suited maybe.

[jstrubberg]

My recommendation would be don't mount it at all. Park the window shaker under the camper and use a piece of flexible ducting to a port in your headboard wall. Check out the "Hack" topic under the electrical section or look at the Compass Rose for pictures of the installation.

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44561


Takes care of the condensation issues, move the noise away from your head when you are trying to sleep and eliminates trying to keep a heavy AC unit sealed tight over time and bumpy roadways.

[daveesl77]

The external AC is exactly what I'm doing with mine. Having had a roof mount in my little pop-up truck camper I found that in such a small space it was crazy loud and would turn the interior into an ice chest with no problem. Once I saw what you guys had done to control the ducting I was set! So, no permanent mount window unit here and I love my AC comfort.

dave

[Socal Tom]

I have a feeling a 5000 BTU won't help much with humidity inside a teardrop. It won't run long enough (Presuming you set the thermostat to 20c) By my spitball, you could have a black painted TD in death valley and a 5000BTU would be powerful enough to use the thing as an ice cream freezer, with any small amount of insulation.

These will do about a 12x12 room, 8 foot ceiling in a house, that's about 1150 cubic feet... how many cubes in an average drop, about 120?

But I know right, you can get them for $80 on sale.

Thinking of this conundrum, I did some digging, and came up with this little bugger..
https://www.plasmacoolstore.com/Persona ... ion=US#buy

However, it does need some re-engineering. Note that it's a bit of a dumb product, in that it blows the hot air out the back, into the same room, so it's kind of a spot cooler. Also contains a drip bucket which makes it bigger than it needs to be. However, I see nice possibilities there, stick in kitchen unit with it's cold side in. It sucks about 250W, so it might run off a decent sized leisure battery and inverter for one night of cool sleeping, 50% duty cycle, which I think would be a darn hot night, typically it would probably run 25-30. If you've got 300W of solar, you could do that night on night. Or use it for an hour a night to get comfortable to sleep for a week.

Anyway, not saying you're wrong for wanting to use best locally available for cheap, just saying "Here's an idea" for sub arm+leg cost unit that's better suited maybe.

I've found that if I leave the windows open, it still cycles enough to keep things dry.
Tom

[Shadow Catcher]

Works well