For those who have completed your build, what would you do d

[ryan112ryan]

I'm building my own this summer for fall camping. I'm curious to hear from those who have been using their teardrops for a while now...

What didn't work in your design?
What would you change in your design?
What were lessons learned?
What would have made design better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dmdc411]

I built a basic New Cub design from the design library. Used the dimensions and layout, sized around a queen size mattress for interior floor size. 12vdc for led lighting a Fantastic fan, all supplied from a desktop computer power supply. Also 120vac outlets in back, and 1 each front and back of the cabin area. Have a flat screen TV with antenna. No heat or AC. No water tanks of any type. What to change? Go with a 8" Memory foam mattress, for us 6" leaves us soar in the morning, tossing and turning all night. Have a door on each side, or be prepared to crawl over each other! Otherwise no complaints! Think light weight. Not a tank. Mine weighs in at 1060, think it could be 800 pretty easily. It's on a 5x8 trailer, 5'3wide x 10ft long body. Have fun with it! Thinking of building again, time to sell!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[Redneck Packrat]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Me, I'd have put the wheels on the bottom. But you might like it that way, I don't know.

[dmdc411]

Smart phones! Not smart enough to use it yet!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[tony.latham]

First of all––I ALWAYS put the flat side of the teardrop down, and the curved side up.

I'd work up a bike rack to sit between the front of the cabin and a small tongue box similar to this.



That's photo is stolen from Cozy Cruiser's website. (They make fine 'drops.)

Tony

[TimC]

I do not have a ceiling vent. I just thought someday I would be scatterbrained and leave it open while out hiking and it would rain on my mattress and ruin the trip. So, I vented through a "plenum" above my rear cabin cabinets to a duct that exited into the galley area through the bulkhead wall. The design hadn't been thought out completely because I usually close the galley hatch at night to keep critters out. The almost airtight galley didn't allow air to escape from my cabin when the hatch was closed. Next time I will vent from the duct above/behind my cabinets directly outside through the side walls (or some such arrangement).

[working on it]

• I built a 4'x8' TTT because it was the same size as the "originals" were, and the standard size of the plywood sheets I was planning to use. Plus, it was never intended for use by two people at a time, just one, but two could use it if needed (thus, two doors). I crammed in so many features and extra gear, that I soon overfilled that 4'x8' footprint (made from a 50"x 60" junk frame, by adding 12" on the front, and 24" on the rear), so I have started to add racks to hold the overflow items.
• overflow items on a new front rack
• My neighbor just bought a nice 4'x12' utility trailer, a"steal" for $250, which needed some repairs. I helped him add planking, welded up the expanded metal sides and ramp, and tried to buy it from him, as it was perfect for a project I have had in mind for a long time...extending my squareback trailer's cabin size, to accommodate everything I can't fit into it now. So, here is the new, improved HHR-v trailer:

• 

  Bruder-style HHRv maximus.jpg (65.89 KiB) Viewed 1109 times

  finally, I have some interior room
• Just kidding, his utility trailer isn't for sale, and is only a single axle, but this is what I envisioned doing with it, if I could buy it from him. I would've removed the cabin off of mine, cut it just behind the doors, inserted a 3 foot center section, and go with tandem axles underneath. My original frame would've been converted to a utility/off-road military-style trailer, which are in great demand on Expedition Portal, for use by rooftop tenters.
• I don't know how much it would've weighed after the conversion, but 2 x 2000 lb axles would've worked (it already has one). If I went that route, I'm sure I would eventually overfill the interior spaces (even with 46.5 extra cubic feet of space inside), so I would probably need to leave the front rack on it.

• 

  enlarged HHRv maximus.jpg (64.87 KiB) Viewed 1109 times

  the rack would be needed, sooner or later
• Rear storage would be kept the same, but a self-contained porta-potty would fit inside the enlarged cabin, and a wall-mounted jump seat (for changing clothes, etc.) also. I would still use the twin mattress size, since larger isn't needed, but moved forward, with the new features placed at the rear. In my dreams....

[les45]

I built my weekender on a NT 5X8 trailer with the original 12" wheels and stiff trailer tires. They rode so rough that I upgraded to 13" passenger car tires and it made a world of difference. I should have done it from the start.

Also spent a lot of time on a PD4045 electrical system with deep cycle battery. We only camp where there is campground power available so I could have left out the PD4045 and battery and saved a bunch of money and effort. My latest build is a simple AC system running through a small breaker box and a DC system running off a computer power supply.

[mahai217]

I built my weekender on a NT 5X8 trailer with the original 12" wheels and stiff trailer tires. They rode so rough that I upgraded to 13" passenger car tires and it made a world of difference.

Did you have to upgrade your axle? What about your hubs? I have a new HF 4 x 8 and would love to change the tires/wheels out if not too cost prohibitive.

Thanks,

John

[les45]

I built my weekender on a NT 5X8 trailer with the original 12" wheels and stiff trailer tires. They rode so rough that I upgraded to 13" passenger car tires and it made a world of difference.

Did you have to upgrade your axle? What about your hubs? I have a new HF 4 x 8 and would love to change the tires/wheels out if not too cost prohibitive.

Thanks,

John

I did not change the axle or hubs. I simply bought the widest 13" tire that would still give me about 1" of clearance to the frame. That turned out to be a 175/70R13. My NT wheels were five lug 5X4.5 so it was fairly easy to find a 13" wheel with that bolt pattern. Your HF wheels are probably 4X4 so they may be a little harder to find in 13" but they are available. I wanted to get away from the Chinese tires and it was hard to find any 13's in my area that were not Chinese. I ended up buying my tires on Amazon and they were General Alti Max RT all season. They rode very smoothly and made a world of difference in the handling of the trailer. I got my 13" white spoker wheels on Ebay. Total cost at that time (about five years ago) including mounting at a local tire store was about $200. I kept my 12" tires for spares.

[working on it]

I built my weekender on a NT 5X8 trailer with the original 12" wheels and stiff trailer tires. They rode so rough that I upgraded to 13" passenger car tires and it made a world of difference.

Did you have to upgrade your axle? What about your hubs? I have a new HF 4 x 8 and would love to change the tires/wheels out if not too cost prohibitive.

Thanks,

John

I did not change the axle or hubs. I simply bought the widest 13" tire that would still give me about 1" of clearance to the frame. That turned out to be a 175/70R13. My NT wheels were five lug 5X4.5 so it was fairly easy to find a 13" wheel with that bolt pattern. Your HF wheels are probably 4X4 so they may be a little harder to find in 13" but they are available. I wanted to get away from the Chinese tires and it was hard to find any 13's in my area that were not Chinese. I ended up buying my tires on Amazon and they were General Alti Max RT all season. They rode very smoothly and made a world of difference in the handling of the trailer. I got my 13" white spoker wheels on Ebay. Total cost at that time (about five years ago) including mounting at a local tire store was about $200. I kept my 12" tires for spares.

• The first thing I changed on my trailer was the tire/wheel/hub size, from 8" to 14", because the smaller tires were not capable of doing what I intended the trailer for, travelling at high highway speeds (the smaller tires have to revolve much faster than larger diameter tires, thus more heat/wear on the bearings), and eventually going off the pavement (un-improved dirt roads, etc.).
• I chose 14" tire size, mainly because I had extras for my wife's trailer, and it was a large enough tire to look right on the design I had in mind. Also, it is a common size for many trailers, and I could find tires anywhere (after I switched from ST to LT tires, I found that selection much smaller- 15" would've been a better choice-). I replaced the original 4-lug hubs with 5-lug hubs, using larger bearings on the original spindles, but had to use spacer/adapters to move the wider section width tires away from the frame. Eventually, using the original axle (1.25" square tube, of unknown weight capability)became worrisome, as the trailer weight grew over 1500 lbs, and when a spring hanger tore loose, I replaced all the suspension parts with a Dexter 3500 lb axle (w/brakes), and heavier-duty parts. I should've done that initially, but I was hoping that the small axle would be strong enough, 'til I could afford a more capable axle set-up (my initial build was low-budget/no-budget).
• I started with the remains of a junk trailer I had, building upon it as I went, so I never had a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool trailer to deal with. Though many using these Chinese trailers have had no trouble with their bearings and tires, others have. les45 didn't have trouble with his, but opted for the better quality/ride of larger 13" tires. Others have had trouble with the bearings, and even when they re-lube them with quality grease, many order and carry spare bearings with them on trips.
• When I was planning to replace my original axle, before I decided the 3500 lb axle was the best choice for me, I shopped around and found many capable 2000-2200 lb axles, made in the USA, which were available locally, or online, fully assembled or axle/spindle/spring perch only (add your own bearings and hubs), but when I decided to get brakes and EZ-Lube hubs from Dexter, I gave them my specs and they built it for me. But, for a replacement for a Chinese axle (HF or NT trailer), I found this fully assembled Dexter axle (2200 lb) online, as a "direct replacement" option. They offer 4 or 5 lug hubs, and will even modify the spring perch location if asked to. The offer comes from a reputable known seller on E-bay, so if I had a Chinese trailer, and if the axle had been a little wider (at 56.5" hub face-hub face, it was a few inches less than what I needed-63.75-, I would've snapped it up at $130, if I had seen it at the time http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Axle-Harbor-Freight-Trailer-2200-56-5-Hub-Face-4-Lug-Axel-48-wide-/351904092221?hash=item51ef1e503d:g:myIAAOSwcUBYJ4B1&vxp=mtr

• 

  Dexter replacement for Chinese axles (4 or 5 lug hubs available).PNG (249.19 KiB) Viewed 984 times

  made in USA; Dexter quality replacement for Chinese axles

[capnTelescope]

I'd raise the doors a couple inches, so I don't bang my head. Aluminum tread plate fenders instead of sandblasted paint. 2x3 tongue instead of 2x2. I'd also go down one thickness on all plywood to save weight.

I like that idea of hanging the 'drop from the garage ceiling,

[working on it]

I'd raise the doors a couple inches, so I don't bang my head. Aluminum tread plate fenders instead of sandblasted paint. 2x3 tongue instead of 2x2. I'd also go down one thickness on all plywood to save weight.

I like that idea of hanging the 'drop from the garage ceiling,

• Agreed on some points you make, with variations:
• 1) Ditto on the higher doors...now older, I am less flexible, and hit my head getting out.
• 2)Trying to save a few bucks, I bought unpainted steel fenders...I have painted them, then bedliner'd them; they're still chipping (I wish I had bought the Jeep-style tread plate ones).
• 3)The flooring, front bulkhead, rear bulkhead, and hatch would all remain 3/4" plywood...sides (including doors) and roof would've been 1/2" ply + insulation +1/4" inside ply (just as heavy, but warmer/cooler inside (with no sweating walls).
• 4)My tongue is 3"x 3" x.1875... strong enough, but wish I had used a 8' tube instead of 6', for better turning ability.
• 5)My TTT is way too heavy to hang from the rafters...I built it 12' overall length, just to have room in its' own garage bay (even with a longer tongue).

[shootr]

Dimmers on my reading lights - too darn bright.

Multi-speed roof vent vs single speed.

[greygoos]

Measure 3 times and cut once