Walls on a metal framed camper

[BlueRidgeSquatch]

So I'm trying to layout my 5x8 camper design in sketchup and I'm trying to figure out the best approach for the walls. I'm going with a more squared camper with 3/4" square tubing framing the camper. The reason for the metal frame is because I intend to haul kayaks (couple hundred lbs) and leave myself open to the option of an RTT if I ever have the desire, and the possibility of it going down rough roads. But I'm stuck on how I should approach doing the walls. I was considering going with a filon skin and i'm not really sure how thick of plywood backing I should go. I was thinking maybe 1/4" plywood on the exterior, then fill the 3/4" area where the tubing is with insulation. Is 1/4" overkill? I want to make sure its durable since I'll be loading kayaks on it (don't want slip and tear something up). Should I look at skinning it with aluminum? I'm not trying to break the bank, but don't want regrets. Also, what would everyone recommend for skinning the interior? I haven't seen 1/8" lauan anywhere in a 4x8 sheet around here (I'm in Staunton, Va). Is there something equivalent?

[GPW]

JMHO, BRS, if you’re going with a metal frame , that metal frame alone “should" be able to adequately support all your weight load demands by itself , which leaves you the options of a Wood , Fiberglass , Aluminum , or even Foam skins . For a strict minimum ,even just a canvas cover… Too many options … pick one you really like … you gotta’ make it !!! All sounds good !!!

[tony.latham]

So I'm trying to layout my 5x8 camper design in sketchup and I'm trying to figure out the best approach for the walls. I'm going with a more squared camper with 3/4" square tubing framing the camper. The reason for the metal frame is because I intend to haul kayaks (couple hundred lbs) and leave myself open to the option of an RTT if I ever have the desire, and the possibility of it going down rough roads. But I'm stuck on how I should approach doing the walls. I was considering going with a filon skin and i'm not really sure how thick of plywood backing I should go. I was thinking maybe 1/4" plywood on the exterior, then fill the 3/4" area where the tubing is with insulation. Is 1/4" overkill? I want to make sure its durable since I'll be loading kayaks on it (don't want slip and tear something up). Should I look at skinning it with aluminum? I'm not trying to break the bank, but don't want regrets. Also, what would everyone recommend for skinning the interior? I haven't seen 1/8" lauan anywhere in a 4x8 sheet around here (I'm in Staunton, Va). Is there something equivalent?

I'm a big fan of 1/4" subfloor plywood. It's cheaper than 1/4" ACX and much better stuff. It'd look great inside. Not a fan of the luan plys. It's a generic term so you never know what you're really getting as far as glue and interior layers.

You could sheath over your steel tube with just .040 aluminum but it'd be easy to dent. (And you'd want to put something between the steel and the sheathing to keep it from dissimilar metal corrosion. There's probably a product out there but perhaps a good duct tape would work.)

I'd cover it with the subfloor ply and then the sheathing of choice. Fiberglassed and coated with Monstaliner would make for a durable finish.

Tony

[BlueRidgeSquatch]

Thanks you all. I never thought about canvas cover. That would make for a pretty neat finish. Do y'all think that I may be going overkill wanting to do a square tubing frame for the cabin? I thought it may be an easier choice (for me), but if I'm having to skin the interior and exterior, it feels like I might as well just go with plywood. I originally wasn't planning on insulated walls, but the metal frame made it work that way, which I'm not against. Do you all think that just a thicker plywood wall would offer the same weight load handling? Or am I on the right track of thinking with the metal framing? I'm trying to build it in stages where I can come back through and wire and skin the inside later, but still be able to use it earlier. Sorry if these seem like stupid obvious questions. This will be my first build, so I'll end up with a lot of newbie questions. And I hope I'm making sense in what I'm saying.

[John61CT]

It isn't the rooftop weight with kayaks, so much as wind side loading and even lift at highway speeds.

I think some sort of metal framing is safer, but doesn't have to be too heavy if the side and maybe even vertical loading is well supported by the shell enclosure materials.

[BlueRidgeSquatch]

It isn't the rooftop weight with kayaks, so much as wind side loading and even lift at highway speeds.

I think some sort of metal framing is safer, but doesn't have to be too heavy if the side and maybe even vertical loading is well supported by the shell enclosure materials.

Well my other reasoning was in case I ever decide to add a RTT. In case one of my friends are with me to go kayak fishing at the lake. I don't know that I ever will, but I liked the idea of having the option. But thinking about, you are absolutely right. I have a Feelfree Lure 13.5, and that thing is a sail on top of a vehicle no matter which way you haul it.

[BlueRidgeSquatch]

I'm a big fan of 1/4" subfloor plywood. It's cheaper than 1/4" ACX and much better stuff. It'd look great inside. Not a fan of the luan plys. It's a generic term so you never know what you're really getting as far as glue and interior layers.

You could sheath over your steel tube with just .040 aluminum but it'd be easy to dent. (And you'd want to put something between the steel and the sheathing to keep it from dissimilar metal corrosion. There's probably a product out there but perhaps a good duct tape would work.)

I'd cover it with the subfloor ply and then the sheathing of choice. Fiberglassed and coated with Monstaliner would make for a durable finish.

Tony

Thank you Tony. I'll definitely look at the subfloor plywood. I've never used luan before, so have no idea how I'd end up liking dealing with that. I appreciate the info. Haven't heard of the Monstaliner brand. I was actually considering Raptor liner in my long list of options. I'm seeing now that if you want inexpensive, attractive finish, and easy to do, that you better just pick two of those criteria.