OK New Guy with question

[CAPTBEACH]

So I have an extensive boat building background having done several cap off, gut and restores on SeaCraft and other boats, as well as fiberglass sailplane repairs so I am very comfortable working around marine ply's and fiberglass. Having said that I have not seen anyone build using marine paints and finishes.

I am planning on building 3 fairly identical Teardrops, one for my daughter, one for my SIL and one for me. We are planning on building together on weekends. I will weld up 3 chassis first then we will commence construction. I will continue working on them during the week (semi retired) and them on the weekends.

I want to use 3/4 marine ply with a skin of fiberglass and epoxy. I plan on finishing the exterior with InterLux Marine finishes, using an epoxy sanding primer and barrier coat ending up with a hard, glossy marine topcoat. I may even use AwlGrip as I have a boat I painted in 2008 that is still just as shiny and glossy as the day it was painted. Both InterLux and Awlgrip are superior outdoor harsh enviroment finishes that hold up for a long time. They also rival automotive finishes for gloss and appearnace.

Does anyone use this technique?

[saltydawg]

I would not use 3/4 marine ply with out skeletonizing it, too heavy. You could do a a skeleton panel with 1/4 marine ply skins, then glass the out side for a pretty damn good structure, but it would still be heavy. Think racing boat, not cruiser. You need to think about the insulating value of the walls and ceilings, other wise condensation can be an issue, esp if its going to be used in colder weather. Heck I would not want to be in florida sun with some insulation.

I have fiberglass skins on my trailer but it is a pre made product ( homemade foam core panels with commercial skins ), sense I will be glassing the joints I plan on using marine paint after faring and smoothing. So yes we do just not to the point of awlgrip paint. There are guys who do ply structure and glass the outside, but most dont use that expensive of paint. It is awesome but damn pricey.

If I ever do another camper it will be 100% foam core then hand glassed

[tony.latham]

Does anyone use this technique?

The short answer is yes... but.

I purchased my first teardrop in 2004. It was commercially made by Hunter.

It had solid 1/2" ply walls. Although we always cracked the windows, there was always a condensation problem on the un-insulated walls. Sometimes it was significant. We carried a bath towel just to deal with it in the mornings. It didn't have the problem of course on the ceiling since it was insulated.

Eight years later I built 5' wide and chose to use insulated sandwiched walls.



I took the same route last summer with another build.



Neither of those 'drops have had any condensation in the interior. Nor the two others that I have built.

But I think your question is about the finish. The last one, Flame was fiberglassed and then painted with a bed liner (Monstaliner).

I glassed the walls, doors, and hatch on the bench, by the way.



Here's my sandwiched wall diagram for the last one:



There are a bunch of other reasons why I really like the sandwiched method but that's way out of the scope of your question.



Tony

[John61CT]

Besides the unnecessary extra weight

insulation, temperature control and ventilation

are much more important design considerations in such a tiny living space.

Sturdy (enough!) durability and low maintenance are of course objectively positive goals.

A commercial-looking aesthetic to me would be a downside, but that's just personal preference.

[twisted lines]

Never built one now three sound like a perfect candidate for a set of three of tonys books.

[gudmund]

I must have ?messed? up along the way = me -myself, still only have one trailer and have yet to ever build one, but so far I have bought 4 of Tony's books = yes, it is that GOOD!! (and given away 2 so far......... .........)

[tony.latham]

I have bought 4 of Tony's books...

Have you tested positive? Running a fever?

Tony

[gudmund]

haven't really been anywhere to be tested yet ?? = Social Distancing by staying home. But so far, twice when showing someone your book = giving it up and ordering another copy = great 'idea/reference' book ...last time I ordered, ordered an extra one so I could have an extra one on standby next time someone wants it, that way I can keep a copy for myself. (PS: guess I am some kind of a 'book/mag' horter - if I like = I keep - And Yes, I also have every 'printed' copy of 'COOL Tears' magazine also - hate trying to read 'print' on computer screens...)

[noseoil]

Captbeach, take a look at some of the build journals to get a feel for what people do here. Your system will be bullet-proof, but it might be a tad heavy as was mentioned already. I like the idea of the marine finish, but a lighter construction method might be in order. the 3/4" plywood is pretty stout for a box that small, it's not necessary. If you go with the "skeletonized" wall construction, it will be just as strong, but much lighter. I used 3/4" ply for the skeleton, then used 1/8" Baltic birch for interior & exterior skins with good results.

Mine was 0.040" aluminum, but the Awlgrip would be really nice since you already have the skill-set necessary for a build. It might be more expensive & labor-intensive than aluminum when labor & materials are included.

[*Inside]

What is awlgrip?

[saltydawg]

What is awlgrip?

Awlgrip is a very high end polyurethane paint, extremely uv resistant, very resistant to scratches. Also very expensive, and very dangerous to spray with out the proper gear ( filters for breathing ).

It maybe the best paint on the planet for boats or anything fiberglass.