Mattress Questions

[Capebuild]

The open space where the mattress will be placed is 75 inches long by 55.375 wide. I have a couple of questions about sizing the mattress:

1) Is it best to find a mattress that comes close to the size it will be fitting into, or slightly smaller (considering the blankets will fill up (maybe an inch) some space...or maybe even slightly larger than the space it fits into? I suppose I have to keep in mind this mattress will fold up to become a couch. A larger mattress than the space it's fitting into might be problematic. Thoughts?

2) There's about 3.5 inches from the platform to the top of the lip of the doorway. So one's thighs aren't sitting on doorway lip when sitting on the bed with feet hanging out the door what thickness mattress is good to leave enough room.... I guess what I'm asking is how much space between top of mattress to top of doorway lip should there be?

Thanks for the help.

John

[Pmullen503]

A "full" size will fit your space (54" x 75"). You'll also be able to use standard size sheets.

[saywhatthat]

there's a class action suit that's getting started a lot of these sellers are telling you they have a 5 ft trailer to the outside walls and they shove a queen in there which is 5 ft so it causes mold no air movement .I Like About two in higher than the door sill that way the mattress was pushed down a little bit and you may not cut your legs

[tony.latham]

Our interior is 57-3/4" wide. A 60" foam queen fits fine. With this last build, I cut the internal cabin length from 80 to 78" because the 80" mattress managed to move back and forth a bit in the last teardrop. I like the 78" better with an 80" mattress.

Foam is squishy.

Tony

[halfdome, Danny]

John, If you're ordering a custom sized mattress you may find, as I have, that the ordered size could end up being a bit over, or under, you're desired measurement.
I just measured our new one with 2" of memory foam glued to the medium density foam to be 3" above any door opening protrusions.
Before we had 2" above and worked out just fine.
Our new mattress is a bit wider than desired and fits snugly, something you may not want if you're using it for seating.
My electric steak knife won't cut unless it has over 1/4" or more to trim as the blade just glides over from applied pressure.

My first teardrop I had 4 cushions made and I made a table to mount in an RV table mount on the floor, we never used it as it was too much break down and set up.
Also your butt may sink in the gap between cushions if it breaks apart at that area.
We use sleeping bags unzipped over a fitted bottom sheet, very easy.
As far as mold goes we have found some discoloring from body sweat and once a year (summer) I remove the mattress from the fitted covers and spray pure bleach and let them dry out.
I wash and dry the covers, no mildew or bleach smell.
Danny

[TCJ]

Our interior is 57-3/4" wide. A 60" foam queen fits fine. With this last build, I cut the internal cabin length from 80 to 78" because the 80" mattress managed to move back and forth a bit in the last teardrop. I like the 78" better with an 80" mattress.

Foam is squishy.

Tony

Tony, have you ever had condensation issues beneath your mattress? I've read about some really bad cases of this, and have been thinking of addressing it with: (a) a Froli system of springs beneath the mattress which will provide airflow beneath it; and (b) some channels deliberately cut into the sidewall insulation to allow air to get down there. Thoughts?

[tony.latham]

Tony, have you ever had condensation issues beneath your mattress?

Never. My theory on this issue is that those that do, don't have enough mattress.

Tony

[John61CT]

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pa ... id=1818021

[Capebuild]

Thank you all very much for the helpful replies.
The condensation issue wan't even something I had thought about.
My wife and I drove to an Ikea yesterday 2 hours away and purchased a mattress we had our eye on. It has a split in it allowing it to fold
which we thought would work well for our fold up bed to couch feature. The other option we had considered was ordering a custom set up
from a place in California. There's a big difference in price between the Ikea product and the custom product. The Ikea product was $130
and for that price we thought why not take a chance. If it works, great. If not, we can go to our fall back position of the custom made version
and we're out $130. The only issue with the Ikea product is the thickness which is 4 inches. I wish it were more like 5 or 5.5 inches.
But then I looked at John61CT link and that stuff looks very interesting. Not only for the airflow function in provides but, also; it would lift
the mattress up another .75 inches. So thanks for that suggestion, JohnCT.

Will report back and let you know how the Ikea mattress fits and performs with the folding feature.

John

[mtbikernate]

I've been very pleased with the Milliard memory foam mattress I bought (I got the 6" one, but there are thinner and thicker ones).

I've had my eye on Hypervent for awhile but haven't bought any yet. I really should get something. I've thought about just using wood slats underneath my mattress, also.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mayton-0-75-Inch ... r=8-3&th=1

With lumber prices, I haven't priced out if it would be cheaper to DIY or not, though.

[sherryk]

This is just my opinions. First, I've never had condensation issues in my TD, but when I was tent camping, it did; and that lesson taught me to want something there.

I used Hypervent for the first few years, but then someone showed me the Froli System, and I was hooked. I can feel like an investment (it can be pricey), but the Froli has IMO two functions: the air flow condensation possible issue, but the one that makes it totally worth it (again, IMO), is that it adds a layer of comfort, regardless of the mattress you have on top of it. You can adjust it for firmness (manually of course), by putting the pieces closer or further apart, or by adding an additional piece to make any individual 'spring' firmer.

Also, you mentioned the height from base to door lip; I have heard that if that is too low (mattress + other layers) too thin, you might feel like it is digging into your thighs getting in and out. Everyone is different of course with that, but that might be another reason to get Froli system: that can raise your total height closer to the door lip as well, reducing that possible discomfort.

[TCJ]

This is just my opinions. First, I've never had condensation issues in my TD, but when I was tent camping, it did; and that lesson taught me to want something there.

I used Hypervent for the first few years, but then someone showed me the Froli System, and I was hooked. I can feel like an investment (it can be pricey), but the Froli has IMO two functions: the air flow condensation possible issue, but the one that makes it totally worth it (again, IMO), is that it adds a layer of comfort, regardless of the mattress you have on top of it. You can adjust it for firmness (manually of course), by putting the pieces closer or further apart, or by adding an additional piece to make any individual 'spring' firmer.

Also, you mentioned the height from base to door lip; I have heard that if that is too low (mattress + other layers) too thin, you might feel like it is digging into your thighs getting in and out. Everyone is different of course with that, but that might be another reason to get Froli system: that can raise your total height closer to the door lip as well, reducing that possible discomfort.

Sherryk, what thickness mattress did you use over the Froli System? The reviews seem to be uniformly positive.