Evaluate my build plan!

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Evaluate my build plan!

Postby 2one8 » Wed Apr 20, 2022 1:19 pm

Looking to start a build soon. I've been reading page after page on here about various builds and have already changed some plans after other folk's experiences with them.

Primarily 3-season. We do spend a lot of time at higher elevations and the better half is a freeze baby so therefor opted for framed walls vs plywood skeleton to allow for thicker foam insulation.

My biggest questions are whether or not the exterior walls will be sufficient, do the exterior walls and roof NEED to be treated since it will be skinned, and will this be sturdy enough should I want to add rails to the roof for kayaks.

IronTon 5x8 trailer

Floor:
Bolted to trailer frame.
1/2" treated plywood ply on bottom, coated with rubberized/asphalt sealant OR thought about using the stick on roofing tar paper and making sure its rolled over the edges and secured by the framing.
2x3, 24" on center framing with sandwiched 1.5" foam insulation.
1/2" plywood on top as the floor.

Walls:
1/4" treated ply outer wall. Trailer frame covering.
2x3 framing with sandwiched 1.5" foam insulation.
.90 FRP paneling interior wall.
Glued and fastened.
Alum skinned.

Roof/rear hatch:
1/8" ply (cant find treated in 1/8") top
2x3 framing with sandwiched 1.5" foam insulation
.90 FRP paneling for interior ceiling
Hurricane Hinge for hatch, gas struts.
Glued and fastened.
Alum skinned.

Rear:
3/8" ply and 2x3 construction
Simple cubbies with doors and flat surface for tabletop. Will be raised up enough to allow some extra foot/storage room from inside, but shouldn't be needed for us. This would also allow me room to add a closed off heater in the future. Insulated between the rear and cabin.
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Re: Evaluate my build plan!

Postby twisted lines » Wed Apr 20, 2022 3:51 pm

2one8 wrote: do the exterior walls and roof NEED to be treated since it will be skinned, Yes the Mix

coated with rubberized/asphalt sealant. NO The Mix
Alum skinned.

Insulated between the rear and cabin.
:thumbsup:

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Racking up; And Rapin foam
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Re: Evaluate my build plan!

Postby 48Rob » Thu Apr 21, 2022 10:09 am

Good morning, and welcome! :thumbsup:

Is overall weight a concern? Have you calculated the weight of all materials planned, and determined if it will put you "over the limit" for the chosen trailer platform? Have you enough weight capacity left for personal gear, water, food, etc? As well, balance of the weight from side to side, and end to end?

1\2" flooring is a good choice. The underbelly being 1/2" also seems overkill; a much thinner choice likely being sufficient. Depends on the intended use. If rock climbing, maybe it is needed?
A possible option may be to use 1/2" ply for the underbelly, 1/2 foam insulation on top of that, and a thin layer of ply or other flooring to finish it off. No " extra framing in between" would be needed. Your steel trailer frame is already the majority of any "framing" needed to support your floor. Only a few pieces of wood may be needed in strategic areas for support.
Consider 5x8 plywood for the floor to eliminate seams and extra framing. It will be stronger as one piece too.

On all the trailers I've built, 1/2" flooring has been more than enough to support the weight of occupants standing. In areas where you don't stand, such as under cabinets, and bed area, not as much support is needed. An example is a\my raised bed platform with minimal framing covered with 1/8" paneling, on which the mattress lays.

Sealing the edges and any cuts and openings is good practice if for nothing else but to help keep the wood stable. Sealing the face (s) of the exterior ply won't hurt. Just use something that won't leave you smelling the fumes for years to come. Making sure you understand how and why a trailer leaks, and addressing the potential areas while building is a better preventative method than attempting to seal every inch of everything and hoping if it leaks, it won't rot the wood. No offense to those who go for the belt and suspenders method, but leaks don't just happen... they are cause and effect.

I would suggest caution using pre-treated plywood that may off gas into an enclosed living space.

If you place roof framing in strategic areas, it will easily support your kayaks or other heavy items, but keep trailer balance and potential trailer sway in mind when locating the kayaks.
Insulating the galley area from the cabin will create less space to heat, but consider if you will store water, food, or other items that may be damaged from lack of warmth.

Rob
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Re: Evaluate my build plan!

Postby Pmullen503 » Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:30 pm

I built my trailer to carry kayaks and canoes. But I found I still needed to transfer them to the TV as the campsite is rarely next to the water. Now I just carry them on the TV, the mileage is actually better. Just a thought...
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Re: Evaluate my build plan!

Postby 2one8 » Thu Apr 21, 2022 3:20 pm

Pmullen503 wrote:I built my trailer to carry kayaks and canoes. But I found I still needed to transfer them to the TV as the campsite is rarely next to the water. Now I just carry them on the TV, the mileage is actually better. Just a thought...


Thats a good point. I was also concerned about them acting as a sail for the lightweight trailer, both headwind and crosswind. I'll have to think about that one.
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