Need help designing front and rear Cross Sections.

[working on it]

Check out this thread and graph of teardrop weights.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56787&start=105

That's the chart I got my weight estimate from. My teardrop is 4x8, most of the 4x8s on that chart weigh in at less that 1000 lbs. Unless I'm reading it wrong. is says: length times width, 4x8 = 4+8+4+8= 32

Some of my weight saving ideas:
Trailer: 1x2 channel: saves 34 lbs vs 2x2 box.
.032 aluminum skin vs .040 or .050
12 inch rims vs 13 rims
1/2" floor vs 3/4" floor
minimal shelving in kitchen.
No doors in kitchen.
No water storage while driving.
No doubling up on wood. ie: build the complete kitchen then slide it in.
No solid wood shelves in cabin, ie: integrate preexisting IKEA shelves into my cabin.

Good looking profile, and your goal is reasonably achieved, with careful watching of weight. My original goal was 1k lbs, but after I saw that I was already going to be 25% over (at one point), then I threw reason out the window and ended up here:

sky's the limit for weight!.jpg (43.94 KiB) Viewed 185 times

If the weight of "heavy" trailers are usually near the median described by this formula Heavy - Trailer weight (pounds) = 40 x Body Length (feet) x Body Width (feet)
then my build is in its own category, the Neutron Star-Class-Trailer weight (pounds) = 55.5 x Body Length (feet) x Body Width (feet). Not only did I use 3/4" plywood in my build,

If you don't believe plywood is made in any thickness but 3/4", you will probably build at the 'heavy' weight

but incorporated neutronium wherever I could, to ensure that it would grip the road.

I highlighted the "normal" build weights from angib, versus what my "abnormal" build reached. But, to do it all over again, I still would not reduce the strength of my frame or tongue at all, would still use my larger 14" wheels/tires (for many reasons, load capacity #1), and would keep the 3/4" plywood - secured with carriage bolts and Tek screws to the frame - as a floor (as the primary frame stiffener, and a solid foundation to attach to) even if I were to build with 1/2" or thinner elsewhere. Just my opinion, but the underlying structure and rolling gear are the most important.

[citylights]

3/4 plywood weighs 60 lbs.
1/2 plywood weighs 40 lbs,
1/4 plywood weighs 22 lbs

Check out this chart:
http://parr.com/PDFs/PG_plywoodthickness.pdf

During my build every time a choice came up... I could use a 1x2, but a 2x2 would be so much stronger! I intended mine for offroad use and built extra strong, so I don't mind the extra weight. I also have a 40lb air conditioner, 60lb battery and a few other heavy extras on it. Just saying, if I was going to do it again, I would build smart instead of heavy and still be just as strong!

As long as you have thought about the weight and stick to it, you should be fine. By the way, your plan already has a 2x4 across the front! Cheers!

[lawsonpix]

the underlying structure and rolling gear are the most important.

I agree, the metal trailer is very important and needs to be strong.

On that subject, I went to our local Farm Show and looked under the horse trailers I saw. I was amazed to see 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle iron used as cross beams for the horses on a 6 foot wide trailer. Horses weigh 1100~1300 lbs and when one hoof comes down, that's easily 800 lbs in one place on that 6ft angle iron. So if we are using 2 x 2 x 1/8 box beam we are extremely over designing our trailers. So my 1 x 2 channel is easily strong enough.