4x8 teardrop galley hinge location

[Graniterich]

I did some searching, and it seems four feet would be a good location for galley hinge, if i were to drop a plumb bob from there, that is about 22 inches from the rear does that sound right?

[Graniterich]

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[Graniterich]

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[KCStudly]

I think it all depends on how high the hatch needs to be when open (height of your frame and floor makes a difference); where your bulkhead is (some prefer to have a shelf at the top of the galley and put the hinge near the bulkhead for the reinforcing that it can offer to the hinge, while others like to have cabinet faces with doors so may put the hinge further back), and whether you expect to get any shade or rain protection form your hatch when in the raised position (doesn't look like you will get much of either due to the traditional TD shape and flatter rear slope).

So it is hard to answer your question without more input. I found that the depth of my galley depended on the fact that I wanted the cooler to slide in lengthwise leaving more space under the counter for other things and making the galley slightly deeper than if the cooler slid in sideways. This put the bulkhead further away from the rear, and I wanted my hinge near the bulkhead for strength because I am doing simple shelves above the counter. Also, with my bustle shaped (modified Benroy shape) rear hatch I found that I will get more shade/rain cover with the hatch at a decent height with the hinge closer to the bulkhead.

These are just some thoughts that may not apply to your more traditional shape, but can give you an idea of what things you may want to look at in making your decision. Hope it helps.

[noseoil]

Typically, as KC said, the hinge is located near the back bulkhead or upper galley cabinet. I would start at the front first, figure out your mattress length, location, toe space for turning over at night, and go from there. If there's a shelf or cabinet above the toe space for the mattress, the hinge would be on the back side of this area. You don't want it inside the cabin, so it needs to be in the galley area. I wouldn't make any decision about the hinge until I did a layout & mock-up of the length first. Then you have better information to make the decision with and can decide where it will be.

The other end of this decision is the galley. Once the bed is worked out, the galley layout needs to be done with cooler, sink, stove, etc. located in the remaining space. Like the front, start with the biggest thing you will have in there (cooler?). Decide where it needs to go and then decide how the rest works out. Only then you can make a good decision about the hinge location.

Mine is like KC's in shape (it's a 5' X 9'). Here's a picture showing a mock-up with the side in place on the frame. There will be a full bulkhead in mine, which runs from the floor to the ceiling. The hinge is just behind the bulkhead location. At the back you can see the galley wall, counter, & upper cabinets (the kitchen's upper in back & the storage cabinet above the toe space for the mattress). On mine the bulkhead will be in a continuous slot running into the ceiling, walls & floor. This will stiffen up the rear of the box. It's only 1/4" plywood, but once it's glued in place, fastened & has cabinets attached, it will be plenty strong for a box this size. The hinge point will be just behind the bulkhead, so it will be fastened in place and reinforced by the bulkhead, cabinets, ceiling, spars & walls.

I would encourage you to stop at this point and not pick an arbitrary number, but one based on the actual layout. It might end up at 22", but it might not.

[Graniterich]

I have laid out dimensions, it is probably good around 22 inches, as that is the front face of upper galley cabinets. Some how in my head, I thought it would be further forward. I agree that that location would be very strong

[KCStudly]

It is not clear from your sketch, but I am assuming that the upper cabinet area is accessible from the cabin side and closed to the galley. Whatever you add above that point is going to choke off what little shelf space is there (hinge spar should be at least 2x2 (1-1/2 inches sq). Looks like there would only be a couple of inches opening there if the roof extends back that far.

I see a divider in that upper cabinet, but it looks too close to the front to provide any usable storage on the cabin side (perhaps it is just a nook for a tv screen?).

This exact dilemma is what led me to the high back bustle variation on the Benroy; more usable interior space. But that doesn't help you with where you are at now.

If I were you I would consider putting the hinge further fwd, perhaps at the point where your roof slope transitions to the hatch radius. Having said that, some will point out that having open shelving under the hatch could create a problem if tall items are placed there when the hatch is closed; on my build other considerations won out.

Maybe shift the upper cabinet divider back to this point and extend it up to support the front of the roof hinge spar. That would open the cabin storage up a bit and give better access to the upper space from the galley side.

[tony.latham]

I built this 4x10. The upper bulkhead is at 28". I butted the galley lid spar just aft of bulkhead –it's attached to the walls and the bulkhead. This configuration works fine with this layout.




That forward curl on the bottom front reduces the legroom by 8". Unless you're short, I'd bring it straight down.

Those two open shelves in the cabin work great. I vetoed the 8" shelf that protrudes into the galley. I've been teardropping with that galley configuration for ten years and swear by it BTW.

T