Windows, walls and insulation question(s)...

[Vajra]

I am itching to build something, working on the design, looking at windows and doors... I found a CL add with used RV windows for fairly cheap. My only issue is they are for a 2" wall thickness. I was planning for a thicker wall with more insulation, as I plan to camp in late fall as well as early spring and of course summer. I was planning on a stick built frame out of 2x4s. I would like it strong enough to walk on the roof. I was planning on 3/4" ply out side, about 2 to 2 1/4 thick insulation, with solid pine for the interior. Planning on this being removable type of teardrop on a larger frame( like a truck camper). I don't plan on going super offroading, but it will see fields, some ruts, and less that friendly road conditions. My deck is higher than normal , I am looking at about 32" deck height. My tear about 120" long, x 80" wide, 54" height from deck to top of roof. With thicker walls, I can't see using the 2" RV wall thickness windows, I am not even sure what would be the best way to achieve that keeping the build strong. If anyone has suggestions for the wall build, or windows, I'd love the help. I know some use a skeletal frame, but I was looking at simple 2x4,ply outside and PMF around it. Windows I am considering are 30x20 screened exit RV windows. Is there are better option, or am I best off changing to a thinner wall? Weight is not much of a issue, trailer can handle 7,500. I am having the springs reduced to carry only half that. Suggestions please?!?! Thank you in advance. - Vajra

[lacofdfireman]

Sounds like your planning on an overbuilt tear like I'm doing. Hindsight being 50/50 like they say I would have done it completely different. I have been building mine as follows. 3/4" Baltic Birch sides with a profile of 5'x10'. Width is about 6'. I framed it out with 2x3 studs and an interior wall of 1/8" Baltic Birch which I also plan on carpeting. I've been told this is all total overkill. It's my first build so I am learning. From what I've been told the 3/4" walls with 2x2's up top would have been plenty to hold me. I am building mine to support a RTT in top. Oh well I guess it's better safe than sorry. My tow vehicle has a towing weight of 6500lbs. I'm hoping to come in under 1500. But if it's 2k I won't sweat it. Next build will be 1/4 Baltic Birch sides with 2x2's and 1/8" interior walls. That's probably a 500lb weight savings in itself.

I started a thread asking the same window question about trim rings. Just bought Windows without trim rings and plan on screwing them in from the exterior. My thread has some photos of how a ft did it and it looks great.

[Vajra]

I guess it could be overbuilt. I see many commonly sized and built teardrops or travel trailers, but the completely unique and different seem to not be so common. I have a need of a removable body, which means needed support for the lift systems. Being wider than most at 80", sitting higher up, I worry about racking and structural fatigue. I know how solid 2x4 frames feel when well attached... That is why I asked. I lurked for days, but it seems everyone has their own way. My camper will see cold temps, late October early November, can get down around 40 at night. I am not to sure how well I need to insulate it. Layers add up, once beyond the 2" thickness for walls and RV style windows, At a loss as what to do. I have not yet seen a double panned exit window. I need to be able to walk on top of my camper, with supplies and someone else. Almost a utility deck, platform for pictures, stargazing, or my kayaks. I was thinking that about one inch or so of the 2x4s would be stained on the inside, with the pine in between those, in case I needed to remove or add insulation. I tried forums with off-road tears or campers, they to see to have a specific system they like as far how to. I asked about finishing OSB, but that got zero replies... have you seen stained OSB as a floor or furniture? VERY interesting... I thought that would be so cool and unique for a exterior... but... all quiet over there. Anyways, weight is not a issue for mine either. I can pull 11K, so I don't worry. My trailer is in the ball park of 1,600 lbs. currently. I need to remove stuff, and make changes to the whole trailer. If I can find a place to rework the springs, I might be able to remove about 200lbs right there... 17 leaf springs per side is a bit over kill. Old style stacks. I think I can get more modern ones and lower the deck height about six inches. Don't get me wrong, 16" of axle clearance is nice. A few people tell me heat inside a teardrop is not really needed at about 50 degrees because the small area inside, warms with body heat. I might have four people in mine, but I am thinking more than likely, just me. Adding heat will be that much more difficult, and more weight that foam. I will check your thread out soon. Thanks for the reply..

[Graniterich]

Forty at night doesn't seem that cold, even living in California a couple of blankets and your good

[Vajra]

Yup, 40 doesn't... unless that is what you think you'll get. In Michigan, it can change pretty quickly, -10 one day to 65 the next. 40 might be a good average, but I am thinking temps would dip bellow that a good bit. Hence, the worry about insulation. I also heard that condensation is a issue, not sure how much of a impact it would be due to extra insulation.