Another Hatch Question

[Dirtclod]

Good Morning TNTTT

I am at the part of my build that I need to make a decision on the hatch. I have Steve Fredericks book and am leaning that way since it really looks sturdy and most of all waterproof. Well at least water managing and making the water go where you want it to go.

My question is more of not a how to build but more in the line of water management. In Steve's book he builds the inner wall to force water to drain down the galley wall and not into the galley. My walls will sit on top of the floor, so wouldn't this force all the water to just sit on the galley floor and eventually cause rot?

In the crude SketchUp drawing below the area that I am concerned about is the circled area where the hatch meets the floor.



Any and all opinions are welcome and thanks in advance.

Mike

[tony.latham]

Mike:

I built my first 'drop the same way you are headed. With one strip of rubber D-seal... it leaked a small amount. Since the hatch is two-inches thick, I added two (or was it three?) additional D-seals and stopped the leak. I'd also suggest you run a couple short pieces of D-seals at the ends of the hatch to prevent water traveling capillary along the parallel seals.



On the teardrop I build for my sister, followed by the one my wife and I built for a wedding gift, I changed the hatch bottom. They have never leaked with one double D-seal.



Just make sure you build your hatch with space for the seals and I think you'll be fine. And dust proof.

I'm still a big believer in epoxying the floor of the galley since I build with a water jug that from time to time will leak a couple of tablespoons.






Tony

[Dirtclod]

Tony

Thanks for taking the time to post up pics. I sure wish I had seen them before I cut and skinned my walls

Do you think it would be possible to curve the bottom edge to match the top curve and force water out the back? Something like below or do you think this would make the hatch less sturdy across the bottom?



Oh and I definitely will epoxy the galley floor for sure.

[tony.latham]

Tony

Thanks for taking the time to post up pics. I sure wish I had seen them before I cut and skinned my walls

Do you think it would be possible to curve the bottom edge to match the top curve and force water out the back? Something like below or do you think this would make the hatch less sturdy across the bottom?



Oh and I definitely will epoxy the galley floor for sure.

I think it'd be a challenge to cut that curve in a manner to make it fit––but it wouldn't decrease the hatch strength. It may be feasible to cut both surfaces at a 45º, instead of a curve, and make it work.

If you've already welded your chassis and built your floor, I'd go forth with the planned hatch. Just buy enough rubber D-seals to cover the entire bottom of the hatch and make sure you glue on a couple of short pieces on the ends at 90º to the width. (Does that last bit make any sense?)

Tony

[Dirtclod]

Tony,

Thanks again for taking time to help a first timer. The trailer is welded and the floor is in place so I agree it may be a bit much to make it all work out that with the curved bottom on the hatch. I will move forward with the planned hatch. The trailer will live in a garage and only see rain when camping or on the road.

I have been searching the forums and came across several pics that you have posted in the past and found one that shows all the gaskets. I saved that to my PC for reference.

Just buy enough rubber D-seals to cover the entire bottom of the hatch and make sure you glue on a couple of short pieces on the ends at 90º to the width. (Does that last bit make any sense?)

Tony

I will admit though you kinda lost me on that last statement. I am not real sure what you meant by "glue on a couple of short pieces on the ends at 90º to the width". ???

[tony.latham]

Tony,

Thanks again for taking time to help a first timer. The trailer is welded and the floor is in place so I agree it may be a bit much to make it all work out that with the curved bottom on the hatch. I will move forward with the planned hatch. The trailer will live in a garage and only see rain when camping or on the road.

I have been searching the forums and came across several pics that you have posted in the past and found one that shows all the gaskets. I saved that to my PC for reference.

Just buy enough rubber D-seals to cover the entire bottom of the hatch and make sure you glue on a couple of short pieces on the ends at 90º to the width. (Does that last bit make any sense?)

Tony

I will admit though you kinda lost me on that last statement. I am not real sure what you meant by "glue on a couple of short pieces on the ends at 90º to the width". ???

On the ends of the bottom of the hatch, apply rubber seals that are 2" long (or however deep your hatch is) so moisture can't capillary between the long lengths of seals from the side.

Make more sense?

T

[Esteban]

You can lower/offset the galley floor area under the hatch to help water runoff.

I intend to have the floor area under the hatch be about 1/4" to 3/8"" lower than the rest of the galley area floor to help water runoff and to save a little bit of weight. It will be done by not installing the 1/4" or 3/8" plywood used for the top part of the galley floor all the way to the end of the galley. I'll probably end the 1/4" or 3/8" plywood somewhere between 2-1/2" to 4" from the very end of the floor.

My galley floor will have a top layer of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood; middle framework 3/4" inner wood & foam insulation; bottom roadside skin of 1/8" plywood.

I'll use fiberglass cloth and epoxy on the top and bottom (road side) for water proofing and added strength. Will paint the top (galley floor area) floor fiberglass. Will use fence post tar or paint to add long term protection to the fiberglassed road side 1/8" plywood.

[kokomoto]

Tony,

Those hasps on your hatch look pretty stout. Do you remember where you found them?

[Dirtclod]

On the ends of the bottom of the hatch, apply rubber seals that are 2" long (or however deep your hatch is) so moisture can't capillary between the long lengths of seals from the side.

Make more sense?

T

Yes, now I understand what you mean and thanks again. Your picture that I found had that same setup. If I ever get up your way or you get down to Tennessee I owe ya a beer or two

Esteban.

That sounds like it would work fine however I am too far along to go that route but thanks for posting up.

[tony.latham]

Tony,

Those hasps on your hatch look pretty stout. Do you remember where you found them?

McMaster Carr. They're a bit overkilll.

T

[kokomoto]

Tony,

Those hasps on your hatch look pretty stout. Do you remember where you found them?

McMaster Carr. They're a bit overkilll.

T

Found them.

Wouldn't be the first thing I overkilled on this build.

Thanks!

Walt