*Inside wrote:I'm building a 5x9x4(H) square drop and have mulled how to do a rear door for about a month now.
Top open hatch: Top of trailer is only 5.5' above the ground so it will be very difficult to stand under the hatch to do any cooking.
MickinOz wrote:Also, you can have a top hinged hatch, and the height if you want, though it is probably not as simple to build.
* I opted for a top-hinged hatch, figuring that the heavy weight of the hatch door, a single piece of 3/4" plywood (49.25' tall x 48" wide), would eventually cause sagging if mounted to the side (i.e., like on an old Camaro...). With attached hardware, the hatch weighs over 50 lbs., so it would've required a single continuous "piano" hinge, but instead I wanted to use gate hinges. I use three hinges on each door(under 20 lbs each), to prevent sag, so if I had mounted the hatch sideways-opening, I would've needed to use 5-6. As-is, it hangs nice& securely on three.
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- hatch details1.jpg (202.64 KiB) Viewed 3465 times
* The top of my trailer is 73.5" above ground-level (24" frame height + .75" floor + 48" wall height + .75" roof thickness), so I can stand underneath with the hatch raised to 90 degrees, but I chose to use prop bars to lock it into place at either 105 degrees or 110 degrees, to clear space for taller folks, or if on uneven ground. I grew tired of lifting it and holding it up while inserting the hold-up props (I had a bad rotator cuff at the time, still do, somewhat), so I added a gas-spring to help...
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=61432.
* The top-hinged hatch has served me well over the years, and with a waterproofed seal between roof and hatch, it is a good cover from sun & rain, when opened. I've needed to use bulb-type D-seals and spring-loaded right-angle latches (2 sets) to keep it sealed against dust, but it never had a problem with water intrusion. I'm sure a manufactured hatch would've been better, but mine is fine now.