Frame tubing size question?

[jeffwholmes]

If the trailer frame is suitable, I will weld or have someone else weld the frame solid no more tilt.

[Steve Frederick]

snip..
My sides will be ¾ birch with ¾ foam board and ¼ oak ply inside.
My plan for the floor is 2x2 treated frame with 22/32 ext. ply.

What is your opinion?

That's the way that I did my Stripper. A bullet proof method, although a lot of weight in the walls. I'm building now with 1/4" outside, 3/4" insulated wall frame, and 1/4" interior. I tow with big Detroit muscle, so, I'm not worried about weight. I started the current projects lighter to create a Teardrop that could be towed by a smaller family sedan.

[jeffwholmes]

Steve will 1/4" ext. be strong enough, I really need to watch the weight.
I will be towing with a 02 Chevy. Tracker 4 door 4x4.

I figured the ¾” to weigh 55-60 lb. so my side walls would be around 90-100 lb.
Less the weight of the ¾” foam, I have not found any data on that yet.

I am also wondering if I just built it 4'x8' could I just use the trailer as is, minus the tilt.

I really want the larger size because I am no small feller.

[Dave Nathanson]

Ok, I've got some opinions about frame & tongue materials.

First, my credentials:
I'm a offroad Jeeper, and we go out exploring rugged trails at least monthly. We just got back from 8 days in Baja Mexico. We hardly spent any time on the road. We took the TearDrop Trailer with us. Baja has some of the most grueling roads anywhere. They don't LOOK so bad, but there are miles & miles of endless washboard. Many times we noticed the trailer tires bouncing a foot in the air, even when we thought we were being careful! The 5x9 trailer has 30" tires, leaf springs, and shocks.

The frame is 2x2x 1/8" wall thickness. It's still ok.

The tongue is, ahem, was the same stuff. When it BROKE we were still 40 miles from pavement. The bouncing just bent it, then tore it off. I can see now that the tongue is the focus point for all the forces that came to bear.

more here: http://www.roughwheelers.com/montego/TD/BajaAdventure2004/index_4.html#IMG_2353.html

So based on these results at the "Baja Proving Grounds", I'd say that 1/8" wall 2x2" is ok for the frame, but something stronger is necessary for the tongue. That tilt up trailer may need some sort of reinforcement, and it's axle moved back a bit for it to make a good camping trailer. Of course, if you NEVER take your trailer anywhere bouncy, you may be ok with the thin stuff. Feel free to ask me any questions since this is just the short version of the story.

PS: It's STILL raining here in So Calif. I can hardly believe it! Where is all this water coming from? It's been raining since xmas!

[jeffwholmes]

Sorry to hear the tongue on your trailer broke, at least no one was hurt.

My plan if I use this trailer would be to cut just before the axel to add the length and down the center to widen it.
For the axle, cut the center and splice it back with a 2’ piece of pipe with the I.d. the same as the o.d. of the axel, that way there is 6” of axle in each side of the extending tube.
I have seen this done for mobile home axels that was two narrow; they used the pipe and welded only one side so as to have a slip axel to use for different applications.

Man I wish a thousand times I hadn’t traded my Jeep for the Tracker.
That was a cleaver use for your High Lift; necessity is the mother of invention.

Thanks for your reply.
Jeff.

[asianflava]

I couldn't make out the pics but is there a removable tounge? Because it looks like it broke along one of the holes. No offroading for me, but I was thinking about stepping my toungue to 3in tubing from the 2in that is spec'd out.

[mikeschn]

When I was considering a 2x2x1/8" tongue for my Lil Diner, Sum quickly stepped in and convinced me that I need to go at least 3/16" for the tongue member, which I did. So in theory the Lil Diner is ready for the desert...

If you feel 2" square by 3/16" is not heavy enough then you could always use 2x3x3/16" tubing for the tongue member!!! You could be a real rock climber with that!!!

Mike...

[Woody]

I used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2 x 3/16" square tube for a tongue and as ridgid as it sounds it does flex which can be seen going down the road. So I could imagine if I had stayed with the thinner tube with a loaded trailer what movement I would have had. Let alone breaking or cracking. That would really put a dampner on the camping experience, heaven forbid anyone getting hurt

[Joanne]

Hi Dave,

I have to agree with your assessment about the 2x2x1/8. I have a length of it that I used to mock up my tongue with but I just don't think it's strong enough for the real thing. Your experiences confirmed my thoughts. I have a removable tongue so I want that piece extra strong.

Thanks for sharing all those pictures of Baja. I've been camping on the mainland side of the Sea of Cortez and it's pretty rough there too. I really like La Paz in southern Baja though, and of course Cabo!

Would you please keep the rain down there? I've forgotten what color the sky is supposed to be! Do you know what the weather forcast is supposed to be for this weekend? I'm hoping to come down for a Dutch Oven Gathering at Doheny Beach.

Joanne

<snip>

The frame is 2x2x 1/8" wall thickness. It's still ok.

The tongue is, ahem, was the same stuff. When it BROKE we were still 40 miles from pavement. The bouncing just bent it, then tore it off. I can see now that the tongue is the focus point for all the forces that came to bear.

<snip>
PS: It's STILL raining here in So Calif. I can hardly believe it! Where is all this water coming from? It's been raining since xmas!

[Guy]

Dear Woody

You should use a tongue stiffener rather than increase the thickness. Added to the bottom of the tongue, it prevents flexing much more than an increase in tubing size and thickness. It is also very easy to retrofit since they only go on the bottom of the tongue.

[Dave Nathanson]

Hi Jeff,
If you're going to cut the frame to lengthen it, and cut the axle to widen it, I have to wonder out loud if maybe it is a similar amount of work to just build a frame? At least you'll be getting what you really want, and as a bonus, you get a free tilt trailer to keep for non-camping jobs!


Or maybe you can trade the tilt trailer for a frame in a size you want? Either way, try to make sure nobody is going to expect you to haul "stuff" around in your TearDrop, as if it was an open Tilt Trailer.

I'm no axle engineer, but I suspect that you need the axle to be perfectly straight. Cutting & welding in an insert seems like it might compromise the straightness of the axle.

On the other hand, I just towed a trailer that was a foot and a half towards the passenger side for over 200 miles of hiway. So maybe straightness doesn't really matter!

[Woody]

Guy,

The flex is part is already taken care of by a similiar stiffner. Thanks for the response

[JunkMan]

[quote]I'm no axle engineer, but I suspect that you need the axle to be perfectly straight. Cutting & welding in an insert seems like it might compromise the straightness of the axle.
[/quote]

Actually after the axels are made they are bowed, to give the tires some caster (or is it camber ), it they were perfectly straight, the trailer would wander around a lot more. At least this is true with sprung axels, not sure about torsional axels.

[asianflava]

[Actually after the axels are made they are bowed, to give the tires some caster (or is it camber )

It's camber. I guess you'd get caster with a torsion axle because of the arm setup (like a castering shopping cart).