annealing VS "bendable aluminum"

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby doug hodder » Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:17 pm

Jim....smut is what's on a brass pole in a strip club prior to "a kneeling".... :lol: doug
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Postby Jiminsav » Fri Jan 12, 2007 11:11 pm

ooooooh..and you can only wipe it off with dollar bills?
Jim in Savannah
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Postby madjack » Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:53 am

Jiminsav wrote:ooooooh..and you can only wipe it off with dollar bills?


UH HUH...but be carefull...some of it can never be wiped off...with anything.......................... 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
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Postby tonyj » Sat Jan 13, 2007 7:55 am

doug hodder wrote:Jim....smut is what's on a brass pole in a strip club prior to "a kneeling".... :lol: doug


So, you've seen the a-kneeling process done in person?

I prefer using a Tempil stick (650 degree) over sooting. My reasoning is that it is more precise and you don't chance having too much or too little soot. But all the "sooters" out there have had wonderful success. I also discovered that number 2 pencil marks on the aluminum would disappear right before the Tempil stick would melt, so another good indicator you are approaching the right temperature.
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Postby Tripmaker » Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:11 am

I'm using the soft AL from Li'l Bear. The roof edge and door trim went on with no problems around the curves. I just screwed it in as I went. I am going to start my doors today and am a little aprehensive about the T-mold bending around the 19" radius. I'll let you know how it works out.
Jim



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Postby Tripmaker » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:05 am

I didn't get to it as soon as I thought. But I put one door together and the T-molding bent very nicely around the 19" radius on my door with very little rippling on the inside of the radius.
Jim



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