Torsion or Spring Axle

[Keith B]

The basic part of the trailer frame is done... 2"x1/8" sq. tubing w/ 2"x2"x1/8" angle stringers... came in at 120#'s... I have 2"x2"x1/4" for the tounge (yes it's heavy, but it's what I have laying around)... 2" coupler and I think I'm going 4'1" from the center of the ball to the first cross member... sure looks LONG, but I read the trailer tutorial and it's kinda what they had written up..

Frame: 120#s, Tounge/hitch: 45#s, Axle: 82#s, Wheels/Tires: 100#s, jacks, lights, etc.: 40#s (est).... 375-400#s complete... , oh well, it's solid and 100#s more than the HF trailer...but it's also 5x10.. not much I can do about it now.

[prohandyman]

Keith
Looking mighty fine. I 'm hoping my frame comes out that good.

Madjack
You southeners still got all the good stuff:
Fine Kentucky Bourbon
Fantastic crawfish
and great sounding southern women on the phone!

[halfdome, Danny]

The basic part of the trailer frame is done... 2"x1/8" sq. tubing w/ 2"x2"x1/8" angle stringers... came in at 120#'s... I have 2"x2"x1/4" for the tongue (yes it's heavy, but it's what I have laying around)... 2" coupler and I think I'm going 4'1" from the center of the ball to the first cross member... sure looks LONG, but I read the trailer tutorial and it's kinda what they had written up..

Frame: 120#s, Tongue/hitch: 45#s, Axle: 82#s, Wheels/Tires: 100#s, jacks, lights, etc.: 40#s (est).... 375-400#s complete... , oh well, it's solid and 100#s more than the HF trailer...but it's also 5x10.. not much I can do about it now.

Your doing great Keith , The company who welded my chassis used thinner steel but 2"x 3" for the frame & 1/8" x 3" x 3" for the tongue. It's a heavy weight but I never have to worry about it falling apart, ever. Danny

[Keith B]

Prohandyman... thanks! I'm sure you're frame will come out as good. Due to the amount of steel I had in it I was generating a lot of heat and keeping it square was a buger... had to build a mount to torque it back to square, but according to the tape I got 'er I think.. and also I leveled the whole thing out before I did all the finish welds...read the tutorial above... you might not follow it word for word but there's some great advise in there to get you on the right path.

Thanks Danny...yeah... we got some fat tears ...but I still THINK I'll be in at 1000-1200#s dry weight.. at least with my SWAG method that Madjack tought me I think I'll be there... and if I go with 3/16" on the tounge I'll save another 10#'s...that might make up for the rear leveling jacks... or I might look at 3" channel too... Hopefully in about 3 weeks I'll have an axle... guessing where to put that for proper tounge weight will be the next trick.

[madjack]

Keith...speaking of axle placement...witha torsion axle, the balance point is the center of the hub, not the axle tube itself...placement on a 10" tear (depending on load factor) is going to fall somehwere around the 44" from rear (give or take a couple of inches)....
madjack

[Keith B]

EXCELLENT... thanks Madjack... getting excited now...

[RichAFix]

Keith...speaking of axle placement...witha torsion axle, the balance point is the center of the hub, not the axle tube itself...placement on a 10" tear (depending on load factor) is going to fall somehwere around the 44" from rear (give or take a couple of inches)....
madjack

I have seen you post dimensions from the back of the tear a few times, is that from the back of the frame, or from the back of whatever is hanging over the tear. My body will hang about 18" over the back of the frame. I know all this is pretty rough numbers, but I am really struggling with figuring door size (I want a big door) that won't get in the way of fenders/axle. Maybe I am overthinking this, but I have been figuring weight on every part so I can figure axle position then I can figure out how far back and how wide the door can be. Am I just thinking too much? Is it not that critical?

[madjack]

RaF...all measurments I give in this regards are from the back of the cabin or frame...whichever is furthest back...while all your weights and their placement are critical, they are not end of the world, bring on the famine, death and destruction kind of critcal...you have a pretty good leeway of around 10 to 20 percent of total on the tongue and even that is not absolutely written in stone...
madjack

[doug hodder]

Jack brings up a good point...I sort of lay out the profile and check it against the axle placement prior to making a commitment on it...I like an attractive look between the door openings and fender placement so that it has a good "road appeal". Get it close, then adjust accordingly...a few pounds here or there, or a few inches aren't going to be a big issue and you can always take care of that by how you load the trailer, but if you end up with a wheel that is crowding a door opening, the overall look isn't going to be as attractive, and I think it's best to know what you want for a fender prior to that layout, the Kit fenders and others have a larger rear end and you don't want to crowd the rear profile either....just my opinion...doug

[madjack]

Doug, let me bring up another point...after a few years on this forum, I am constantly amazed that Andrew, with his "scientific method" and me using my MkI eyeball S.W.A.G. practical engineering method, that we tend to end up at the same points...time after time...good engineering...practical engineering and aesthetics seem to go hand in hand MUCH more often than not.....
madjack

[Keith B]

Just a quick update...spent a PILE of money today.... .
Ordered the Dexter axle: 2k, easy lube, low profile, 32deg. down, side mount: $170
Ordered 2, 15" aluminum wheels: $120 total on sale.
Ordered 2 gallon system of CPES from Rot Doctor and some Epoxy Fill It: $220.
Ordered 2 cheap 15" tires: $65.
Ordered 2 levelings jacks w/ handle: $59
$630.00 + some shipping..... I could have SWORN somewhere that TD's were the inexpensive way to camp... .

To quote Ira... the last 10% of the build takes 90% of the time... but I'd like to add...the last 10% is also 90% of the cost.

I got the VCT laid in the galley last night...1st "interior" work started.

[bobhenry]

Doug, let me bring up another point...after a few years on this forum, I am constantly amazed that Andrew, with his "scientific method" and me using my MkI eyeball S.W.A.G. practical engineering method, that we tend to end up at the same points...time after time...good engineering...practical engineering and aesthetics seem to go hand in hand MUCH more often than not.....
madjack

Don't forget the latest c.a.d.s system ( "Cardboard aided design" )

[madjack]

Doug, let me bring up another point...after a few years on this forum, I am constantly amazed that Andrew, with his "scientific method" and me using my MkI eyeball S.W.A.G. practical engineering method, that we tend to end up at the same points...time after time...good engineering...practical engineering and aesthetics seem to go hand in hand MUCH more often than not.....
madjack

Don't forget the latest c.a.d.s system ( "Cardboard aided design" )

...one of the best around....................................

[Keith B]

Talk about the speed of light...ordered my axle, jacks, etc. on Tuesday...THEY'RE ALREADY HERE ! Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.