Lacquer Question

[Lynn Coleman]

Has anyone used Lacquer as their clear coat over paint for the exterior? If so, how well did it hold?

If not, is this a bad idea?

Lynn

[doug hodder]

I am assuming that you are thinking about a nitrocellulose lacquer paint? Automotive type lacquers (paint) will hold up in the elements, it is not real durable, but is easy to spray and polish out. It'll chip easily from road stuff...You'd need to also seal off the wood really well as it'll soak in. Most of the clear lacquers made for home use are not made for outdoor exposure, i've got a boat that I cut a corner on and did some trim pieces in lacquer...it all flaked and peeled off, you will probably want to talk to the paint manufacturer about what clear would be best to go over it...what type of paint did you use, and does it need to be clear coated? typically paint doesn't need a clear coat over it unless you are using a 2 stage paint system, IE base/ clear, and they chemically bond between the 2. Doug

[Keith B]

Hey Doug... is this true for enamel as well... most likely don't need to "clear coat" it. While I know auto is probably better, enamel is MUCH less expensive... of course, the 2nd school of thought is that a TD probably only takes a gallon? yes? so why not spend the money.. it is the part you SEE the most and it is what's PROTECTING your TD... I think I just talked myself into spending the extra coin... If I can get away from not spraying a clear that'd be great... does anyone recommend a 1 part auto paint as opposed to the 2 part you mentioned...

[doug hodder]

Keith...there are a number of single stage acrylic enamels out there, (no clear coat)...Centauri is by Dupont and I've shot lots of it, most manufacturers have a single stage product...I like the 2 stage as you get a 2nd chance to clean out the bugs/dust from it before you shoot the clear, and if you get a run or sag it can be taken care of. All you need to do is get it covered with color and if shooting metallic so it looks even... But there are lots of single stage paints that you can catalyze to give a good glossy finish, spring for the hardener...However, there was a post about just using Rustoleum and it turned out fine, just a long curing time.

I think that whatever paint you have down, just make sure that you get something that is compatible and will bond to the paint if you decide to shoot some clear over it. As a sidebar...automotive paint work takes some time and patience to learn, and if someone doesn't have a gun, compressor, regulator, air dryer and mask, and some experience spraying, it might not be for you, it is more expensive, and if you screw up...it gets really expensive/ time consuming and frustrating...just remember, the quality of the paint job is a reflection of what was done under it. It won't hide any imperfections...Doug

[Keith B]

EXCELLENT advise Doug... maybe "auto" isn't for me "just yet".. I may have to go w/ BPS Enamel (Tractor Paint from TSC) to get it done by summer, I've used it on other steel stuff I've built, they say you can use it on wood, I know it's far from the best, but it's the "best" paint I've sprayed.. mostly I've done wood finishes..... or I could go buy a quart of auto and practice on my trailer frame.

[doug hodder]

That's the best place to start...Doug