Epoxy experts, I need a little help

[AmyH]

I have been waiting ever so patiently for the rain to go away so humidity levels will drop enough for me to start epoxying the sides of my tear. I am now starting to wonder if I really am worrying needlessly about the humidity level affecting the epoxy work.

Do any epoxy experts here know if I can do the epoxy work when it is rainy out? I will be working on it in my enclosed garage, and I plan to heat up the shop to around 80 degrees. I'll then let the temp drop as I work on the sides. I am just a little freaked out about messing things up, since I worked so hard to get the decorative strips looking nice. I had read somewhere that it is best to work on epoxy in dry conditions, but I don't think that is going to happen anytime soon up here in the NW! Oh, I will be using West System 105/207, if that helps.

I really want to get these sides done, so I can get the tear done before summer. Argh, this misty rainy junk is starting to get me down...

[apratt]

Amy being you are working in a garage you have no worries. Go ahead and expoxy away. You just don't have any dew on the surface when you are expoxing. They are fairly forgiving.

[toypusher]

Amy,

You should talk to Steve F. about this. One thing that I know for sure is that you should wear a respirator when working in that enclosed area with epoxy. I also do not believe that the humidity will be a problem. It may effect the drying time a bit, though.

[Steve Frederick]

I just epoxy when ever I need to, regardless of the weather!
I have a furnace in the shop, so I just make sure that the place is warm enough and the air is not too damp. I haven't had any trouble in two boats and 5 T/D's! Check with the manufatcurer of your product to be sure, if you have doubts. Your plan to heat up the shop and apply epoxy as the shop cools is the method I use! You'll have fewer, if any bubbles in the first coat that way! The cooling air won't spring up as bubbles in the finish as is sets.

[Keith B]

I never really noticed the fumes until it started to set-up, but maybe a respirator would be good if you're gonna shut the place up and heat..but ESPECIALLY need a respirator during sanding.. It's raining here, 2" today and I put the epoxy on in my shop and it's setting fine. I think you'll be fine, just don't let the wood get wet, keep your TD dry and protect from dew now and for the next 24 hours.. if you have heat you'll be in good shape, or maybe you have a little portible dehumidifier in your house you can put in the garage for the night? You could also turn your heat on in the shop, keep your TD in there for a day and let everything, air, surface, epoxy "equal" out temp wise. West Systems is good stuff, and the 207 give you PLENTY of time to work.

[dahoon]

Amy,

I went to Fiberlay there in Seattle and got my supplies. They were very helpful and haver some helpful manuals you can download.

My problem is: I wasn't able to hold the heat in the garage and the epoxy primer coat hasn't completely catalyzed yet. So, can I still apply the fiberglass and epoxy over the top of this? I did scrape the excess epoxy off the surface, but what is left is still tacky.

Mike

[glassice]

Fiberlay is a good co to work with . Is the epoxy a lay up type it stay's tacky for a long time .it dose not have wax in it and you can lay over it

[dahoon]

It's not supposed to be tacky. I was using the epoxy thinned with alcohol as a penetrating coat before I layed to fiberglass coat.

Mike

[glassice]

Mike might i suggest lay a small 3" by3" and see if it works and make a paint trap room that you can put a small heater

[doug hodder]

Amy,
I don't think you'd have any problem with the temps...It will just take longer to cure. Make sure you have a correct ratio on resin vs. catalyst, pumps will do that for you, and make sure that you get it completely mixed well.
Mike,
I don't know what system you are using, but West doesn't recommend thinning with alcohol, but instead acetone or lacquer thinner for more penetration (flashes off quicker than alcohol), but it comes at a cost, strength and moisture protection are compromised. They suggest heating the area that is going to have epoxy applied as that will change the viscosity of the epoxy and allow it to penetrate better without losing any of it's cured properties.

Also West Systems publication 000-915 offers problem solutions to applying epoxy in cold temperatures.

Doug

[dahoon]

Amy,

Nice inlays on your trailer. Maybe one of these Saturdays I have off we can get together and comapre notes. It looks like we are running neck and neck on the process.

Good news I put the sides outside in the sun this afternoon and they heated up real nice and finished catalyzing the epoxy. Next I guess I need to build a hot house to seal up the gagrage to heat up the room.

The fields are alive with the bloom of tulips,
Mike

[AmyH]

Thanks for the tips guys. I just finished up the first layer of epoxy, and it went really smooth. I used three portable heaters to heat the shop up to 80 degrees, and that really brought the humidity down a lot! I have turned the heat down now, so the temp will start dropping. Hopefully this will help with any bubble problems. I will have the curb side piece done tonight, and I will get the street side done next Saturday. Then I can finally use my template to cut them out! Woo hoo, it feels good to get moving on it again!