Wall Adhesive

[Toytaco2]

I know this question has probably been asked before, but, I'm about ready to attach the 1/4" plywood skins to my wall frames and would like to know whether you all prefer a wood glue like Titebond III or a construction type adhesive for this application and why. Also, if you prefer the construction adhesive, would you trowel this on the framing pieces to get complete coverage or use some other technique. Sorry if this question has already been covered, but, a search concerning adhesives returns an overwhelming amount of information. Also, I'm not asking about the glue for the cabinets, etc. Only the wall skins.

Thanks for all the help this forum delivers. I wouldn't even know what a teardrop is I hadn't come across this board. In fact, I've never even seen one first hand, but, I'm still making progress and hopefully will be ready to camp by summer.

[Mentor58]

I just did this, so maybe I can give you some tips. I used Construction Adhesive, in part because it was too cool here for the Titebond 3 to cure properly.

I started by laying the frame down on the plywood, and used a pen to trace out all the areas that it covered, so that I'd know exactly where to put the adhesive. Then I took the frame off and put it over to the side out of the way. I also put the tubes of Construction Adhesive (PL 200) on the dash board of my car in the sun for about an hour to help it flow a bit easier

Here is how I worked the glue...I cut the end of the nozzle off at a 45* angle about 1/2 way down the tube, so I could squeeze a good wide bead. I'd shoot a bead for about 12-24 inches or so, and then I smoothed it out. I used a V-groove trowel with appx 1/4 inch notches (somebody else here has suggested using cheap plastic drywall trowels and cutting them with pinking shears). The trowel was about 3 bucks at Home Depot, back in the tile section.

The way I troweled it was to use the smooth edge of the trowel to sort of pull it out smooth, level, and fairly thin. I then went back over it with the notched side to put the nice grooves into it, so that it would all sit and squish out level. I also tried to extend the glue coverage a little outside of the lines, so that I was assured of good tight edges.

I used about 20 solid cement end cap blocks (18 x 6 x 4 if memory serves me) to clamp everything down nice and tight. They were about a buck a piece, the best buy you can get if you are looking at "Weight vs. Dollars"

After it cured up I used my router to cut the outer ply skin to the profile of the frame.

I ended up using about 3 tubes per side, it seems like a lot, but when you start to spread it out it gets used up fast. I had the tubes all laid out, the nozzles cut, ready to grab and go.

If I had to do it again, the only thing I'd suggest is that it would have been a LOT easier if I had somebody to help me spread it out. I felt like I had to work rather quickly, or else the glue might start to dry out on me.

I'd also recommend that you get at LEAST 3 tubes per side, and if you get some extras that wouldn't be a bad idea. At a couple a bucks a tube it's insurance, 'cuz once you get started you can't stop while you run to the store for more.

I've got a couple of pics in the photo album on the side walls, but I haven't posted any yet of showing just how I applied the glue. (haven't had time to edit those up yet.)

Hope this helps.

Steve

[Toytaco2]

Gee Steve, thanks for such a complete answer. I hadn't thought of spreading the glue on the wall instead of the frame members. I was already considering the router and flush trim bit instead of my jig saw. I'm assuming you used 3 of the smaller sized tubes and not the bigger ones? Was there a reason you chose the PL 200 over the PL Premium (Polyurathane type and probably more expensive)?

[G-force]

I just did my walls, 1/2" ply outer, 1/4" inner, over 1x2 (3/4 x 1 1/2 actualy) popular strips. I used Titebond 3 for everything and have been happy with its strength on test pieces I glued up. My fitup was excelent so I knew I had good wood to wood contact. If the fitup was poor and gaps needed to be filled, a construction adhesive would probaly work better. If you have a tight fitup, I find the construction adhesive too thick as most of it needs to be squeezed out during clamping. If your clamps are too far apart, you can get a lumpy wall if using thin panneling. I used 18ga brads in areas that will be covered to help hold things in position while clamped around the perimiter and weights placed over the insides to hold everything tight.

Mike

[Bronco302]

What Steve Said, I'm the pinking shears guy. I tried the small metal trowel but felt it gave me to much drag, slowing down my work. The plastic bondo and drywall trowels seem to glide better.
I'm doing a Weekender design and making the panels with 1/8" ply and populr stick. I do as Steve said and on my first skin then glue insulation in the voids. Then spread glue over the second skin, lay the frame work over it and weight it all in place.
The plastic teeth on the trowels wear down pretty quick so have 3 or 4 ready on a large panel, also the glue just peels off of the plastic for clean up. HTH.

Joe W.
P.S. This is the glue I am using http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

[Toytaco2]

To Joe & Steve,

It looks like I'm going to be following your approach to gluing up the skins on my finished frames, probably over the weekend. It's probably a bit cool here too right now for the Titebond glue so I'll be using the PL Premium construction adhesive. May I ask why you applied the glue to the skins and the frame on top of that instead of applying the glue to the frames? I'm sure its not a critical point, but experience sometimes proves otherwise.

Thanks

Mike

[Miriam C.]

A little warning, the Blue stripe PL glue will smell forever, or almost. It has a real strong chemical smell.

I put the glue on my frames and squished it down. Don't think it matters where you put it. Spread it out with a plastic putty knife. No notches. It really squished out the sides so I waisted some glue.

I used all my pop and water bottle cases as clamps.

[Bronco302]

On the first skin to frame I lay the ply on the flat surface just to keep it flat. I lay my frame on it and trace it out, then spread the glue mostly between the lines. Lay the frame work in the glue, and weight it down. The frame being stiffer can be weighted any where you feel it needs it without stressing the skin in an open area. After drying I then cut and glue in the insulation. Then slap down another skin spread glue, lay the frame and first skin on it and add weight. I use scraps between the panel and blocks to protect it.
This is how I did the smaller panels, My walls were glued and screwed to the table on a precut skin profile like Mike did in the Weekender construction photos. My frame junctions in the walls are half lap joints.
Well anyway, bottom line to keep the ply flat and its easier to spread glue on the wider surface. HTH.

Joe W.

[Toytaco2]

Got the first wall skin attached today and the glue is now curing (pictures in my album). I'm doing the other tomorrow. It looks to be working great. Thanks everyone for the good advice from this thread.

Mike

[Miriam C.]

Way to go. Gotta love those clamps huh.

[Bronco302]

Very cool Mike
Looking at all those clamps I gotta ask though, where's kitchen sink;^)


Joe W.