newbie questions on cooling,frames and walls.

[willy3486]

I have a few questions on building a teardrop. Here are my plans. I want to build a teardrop that can be different from the usual shape. I Like Doug Hodders trolley top. I want to build something either with a lot of streamlining or a art deco look. I am trying to deciede on the outside, as to paint or leave the wood texture showing but with a clear coating. I think maybe even a mixture. I have access to red cedar so I may make the cabinets with that.
Here are a few questions I have.

1. Cooling, how easy are they to cool. I don't go camping in the heat of the summer,late July and August. Usually 90 during the day at the most. I really do not want to have a AC unit due to the weight. What I have been thinking about is to set up some types of vents that maybe allow air to come in from the bottom then maybe incorporate a trolly top with vents. I also am looking at screens with the doors. I have a "air cooler" that you put ice in it and it has a fan that blows air through. So my question is can you cool a teardrop this way, We probably will not go camping in extreme heat that you would need a AC unit.

2. Walls
I was wondering as far as the walls go I have seen some that just have maybe a 3/4 plywood for the walls. I was thinking about making a 1/2 inch wood skeleton out of pine that I could lay styrofoam sheets into . Then something like using a 1/2 plywood for the outside and 1/4 on the inside. I was thinking of this route so keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. This is how I did my scotty when I redid it and its really easy to cool or keep warm. Is this overkill or would just a single wall of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood work?


3. Frame
I have seen the cheap frames at Harbor freight and was wondering about them. What about going to a junkyard and getting a rear axle out of a front wheel drive car like a caviler. Then just make your own trailer. I really do not want to go this route but it is a option. One thought I have is a camper frame. I currently know where a lark camper that was used for parts may be. I think the trailer frame may be ok. Would this add a lot of weight over say a harbor freight or tractor supply frame? I want a good size wheel similar to one on my scotty. I do not want one of the 8 inch wheels.
As far as what it has I want this to be minimal. No TV or radio for now. Just a bed,lights,gas stove, small sink that connect to the hose pipe. I want to keep the weight down so it can be pulled by a small car, maybe a 1.8 liter engine.

I have a couple of trailers now. A 17 ft I pull to a state park about 15 minutes away. I have a 13 ft scotty I take to longer trips. I originally wanted to build a teardrop years ago but wound up with a camper. Now with gas what it is I am looking at a teardrop again. I would like a teardrop to use in the smokey mountains about 3 hours away. I have a hard time pulling the scotty with my truck up steep hills with all the extras we added. I added a wicrowave and a bathtub to name a few in the scotty. So does anyone have suggestions for the above? I have looked through and not found questions like these yet so I thought I would post these. Thanks in advance.

[del]

To answer some of your questions. Walls I used 1/8" ply outside skin with fiberglass. It is light but with insulation I think it will prove itself.

On the frame the harbor freight frames work just fine, with proper maintenance will last too. Depending on the state getting a tag maybe easier with a prebuilt trailer. The car axle can be tricky to mount (price a new trailer axle before buying a used car axle), my friend uses a dodge caravan axle with trailer springs, but his son gives him the axles.

my 2c del

[Miriam C.]

An inch and a quarter of wood is a lot. You can get away with less and how much less is totally up to you. I have 1/8" Birch inside and 3/8th out with stick framing. Mine is wider and I thought it would be better.

Cooling depends on how humid the outside air is. I use an air conditioner when nights are above 80. We don't go if it is much above 90 either.

You might check on an axle that is new. They are not expensive at farm supply stores and you can look on the internet too.

[Esteban]

My walls are being made as follows. I have 1/4" plywood on the outside walls. 3/4" thick stick framing and insulation in the middle. Still to be installed, 1/8" plywood will be used on the interior walls (and ceiling). The outside is covered with fiberglass (fiberglass cloth and epoxy - not manufactured sheets). With just the 1/4" outer plywood glued and stapled to the wall frame it's already pretty sturdy.

It's under construction and not yet attached to the floor nor is the roof built. Once it's all assembled, with interior cabinets too, it'll be plenty rigid.

BTW, my walls are about 54" high by about 11' long. They're made from 3 pieces of plywood. The fiberglass helps add strength, smooth over the plywood joints, and will provide waterproofing.