Automotive Colored Clear Coat Paint and Wood Grain

[fseider]

I don't know a thing about automotive paints, but I'd like to have mine painted with an automotive colored clear coat, and then a clear top coat finish. My question - can you still see the wood grain? I'd like to use Birch, and would love to have the grain show thru but with a nice bright color finish such as orange. Is this how it is done?

And if so - can someone please layout the basic steps for the finsih process, such as use a sealer, or don't use a sealer, what kind, and how many coats of paint, etc.

I know I can probably just go with a colored wood stain, and then spar varnish, but I'm afraid it just won't 'pop' the grain. But I could be wrong.

Thanks,
Fred

[madjack]

Fred, I would use something like an aniline dye on the wood to get the color and grain reveal you want and then do epoxy over that(3 coat minimum), finishing with auto clearcoat(3 coat minimum)...look at Doug Hodders builds...both his boats and his tears, for how this will look/work.......
madjack

[doug hodder]

Fred, like Jack sez: use the aniline dye, water based is more UV resistant than the alcohol. It is very compatible under epoxies. The epoxy will help you build up plenty of thickness for depth fast. Oil based stains aren't recommended for use under epoxies. Sand between coats on the epoxy, finish sand with something like a 320 and then shoot the clear over the epoxy. The automotive clear isn't an inexpensive way to go, and if you don't have any experience or equipment to spray material like that, you might want to think about having someone do it. It can be an expensive lesson. PS, watch your humidity when applying the epoxy. Dry conditions give best results, and I mean dry till it's completely cured. Doug

[fseider]

Thanks gentlemen - as usual, very helpful in getting this newbie well prepared for his first build.

Thanks

[doug hodder]

Also....a follow up...make sure that you use the epoxy made for top coating when you do the exterior on your tear. It may have a slight amber cast to it, won't hurt your color however, probably won't be noticeable. It has some UV resistance built into it. Top coating material and construction resin aren't exactly the same critter. May not be a big deal, but they do make different resins for the 2 applications. Doug

[fseider]

A little followup needed here please:

I don't have spray equipment, so wondering abount putting on my finishes (over my colored wood stain) with a brush or roller. Good idea, or bad idea? (Push comes to shove I can probably have something arranged with a sprayer, just not an easy thing for me.)

I've never used an epoxy before - does it go on smooth and easy, or does this need to be put on with a spray gun, period? And I am assuming that epoxy is very very clear, so I can see the wood grain?

And last - how about final texture? I generally like satin for my woodworking finishes, and don't really like gloss. However, I do understand that gloss is great for exterior work as it tends to stay cleaner longer, and is easier to clean as well. Ideas?

Thanks,
Fred

[doug hodder]

Fred, check the above sticky on Epoxy users manuals. Gives you all the info on application. You could do the epoxy work yourself and have the final clear coat shot by a local shop, or could top coat with varnish. It's an investment if you don't have spray equipment. Doug

[fseider]

Well DUH! to me! Right in front of my nose. Reading through it now. Thanks for the heads up - gotta go 'n git me udumucated on epoxy...