Plug Cutter...

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Plug Cutter...

Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:23 pm

What's the prefered choice... Straight or Tapered? :thinking:
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Postby rainjer » Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:47 pm

For me neither. If need to plug stuff I buy pre-made plug or just pieces of dowel & cut them up on the band saw.

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Postby Juneaudave » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:06 pm

I've been using tapered, but I have no idea why. They work great though...
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Postby wannabefree » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:41 pm

Tapered plugs will fill the hole without a gap. Dowels are often undersized and out of round. Commercial plugs generally are made to stand proud of the hole. So for me, it's a tapered plug.
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Postby Rock » Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:43 am

X3 for the tapered. As long as your counterbore is deep enough you can tap the tapered plug in with a finish hammer and the fit will be absolutely tight.

I'm using ebony accent plugs on cherry and the fit is perfect.

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Postby tonyj » Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:44 am

Tapered. Fills the hole with no visible gaps. Use a flush cut saw to remove the material standing proud of the surface.
Last edited by tonyj on Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby 48Rob » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:09 am

Tapered.

Preferrably of the same or similar density wood, with the grain of the plug oriented the same as the plugged piece.

The tight fit of the taper compresses the wood of both the plug, and the plugged piece, so when the piece expands and contacts, the plug doesn't show a visible gap.

Both types, straight and tapered are glued in.
Either will do the job and done correctly won't "come loose", though straight has a greater chance of failing.
Since wood expands much more across the grain, the edges of either style make, and maintain good glue contact on two sides, the length of the grain.
It is the other two sides, the width of the grain, that present the potential for expanding beyond what the plug can maintain.
By using tapered, you compress the grain across the width, allowing more potential for expansion without visible results.

There are other methods that use green wood and dry dowels to "lock" the parts together.
That is starting to get away from the basic plug the hole concept, though the results are similar, the parts compress around the pin or plug.


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