Floor Insulation Photo Request

[cracker39]

Dale, I just went one panel of 3/4" insulation all around. Floor, sides and roof.

The Cubby plans only call for 3/4" for the floor and sides--because structurally, you don't need to frame the walls with sticks any bigger than 3/4" deep. The Cubby sides are fairly thin (don't remember, 3/8?), but if it's 3/4" for this, you certainly don't need thicker framing if you're using a thicker ply side.

But they also tell you to use TWO panels of this insulation thickness for the roof, for a 1 1/2" total thickness, because that's your spar depth/thickness/width.

BUT AGAIN...

I am 100% NOT concerned with insulating for any cold down here. (I insulated for the body moisture/mildew factor ONLY.) I guess because heat rises, the Kuffel plans call for doubling up the roof insulation to keep heat from escaping, to help you in cold weaher. And since you have that 1 1/2" to work with, thermodynamically speaking (who, me?), you're supposed to fill it completely to eliminate voids between the exterior and interior roof skins.

But when it comes to our hot weather here, and my 5200 btu air conditioner, I really don't think you don't need ANY insulation to keep that thing DAMN cool.

I'm only doing 3/4" thick spars in the ceiling, except where the fan goes and the roof will thicknes will taper into 1 1/2" into it and back out again. The rear will be thicker to have heavier framing to both support my A/C and provide for depth for outlet boxes. Front, most of the top, and sides will have 3/4" insulation. I agree with you on insulation for Florida. And, yes, even with my larger trailer, the 5200 BTUs will be OVERKILL for cooling. OK...one layer of 3/4" underneath too should suffice with the 3/4" wood floor with vinly flooring or possibly in/out carpeting.

[alaska teardrop]

For those with an interest here are two fact sheets. One for insulation and the other for vapor barriers. www.uaf.edu/coop-ext/publications/freep ... -01454.pdf and www.uaf.edu/coop-ext/publications/freep ... -00259.pdf Keep warm or cool, Ira. Fred - the worlds' farthest North teardrop buider. as we speak

[IraRat]

Dale, your spars are going to be 3/4" thick--but they should be 1 1/2" wide. And since they're rotated, the way you install them, you do have that 1 1/2" depth for insulation, if you so choose.

Also, some of us doubled up our spars, laminated two together, for a 1 1/2" square spar.

Cubby plans don't call for this at all, but I wanted stronger, even for this small 4 by 8.

(I also love the fact that being from Alaska, Fred would indeed be the most knowledgeable about insulation!)

[cracker39]

Dale, your spars are going to be 3/4" thick--but they should be 1 1/2" wide. And since they're rotated, the way you install them, you do have that 1 1/2" depth for insulation, if you so choose.

Also, some of us doubled up our spars, laminated two together, for a 1 1/2" square spar.

Cubby plans don't call for this at all, but I wanted stronger, even for this small 4 by 8.

Yep, I could rotate them to 3/4" wide and 1 1/2" thick, and yet may do that, but I can't see doing it for insulation...maybe for more strength across the top. I may even rip out 1" x 1 1/2" from 2x6s. They have fewer knots than the 2x4s, and I can rip 10 1" x 1 1/2" spars from one 12' 2x6. I still have a month or more to decide before I can start building.

I still haven't gotten the septic people over here to hook up my system to the street. They have to punch through my back porch floor to get to the tank thanks to the previous idiot...oops, owner... who poured a concrete floor over it.

Then, I can build my utility shed and enclose part of the porch for my workshop. THEN, I can start building. Maybe I'll get it done in time for the Edisto Beach outing in April. Little Talbot in February??? I dunno about that.

[IraRat]

I didn't have the EQUIPMENT to rip anything. What kind of wood are you thinking about for the spars? I used poplar.

[Chris C]

Thanks for the links, Alaska. I'm sure they will be helpful to many.

[cracker39]

I have both 10" table and radial saws, a 10" miter saw, and a benchtop band saw. I do my ripping on the table saw...I don't like to rip on a radial because it kicks back too much. A table saw, even a small one, is a good investment if you do much wood working.

I plan to use spruce for spars and cabinetry framing . It's cheaper than poplar, and just as good in my opinion, if you don't mind a few small knots showing occasionally (but you select pieces without knots for the cabinetry). The 12' boat I built and ran with a 7.5hp outboard was made from spruce framing and 1/4" luan skin, then glassed on the outside. The spruce was strong and held up well. I will either buy spruce 1 by 6s or 1x8s (also known as clear pine in HD...not the cheap shelving 1 bys) and rip them, or rip good quality 2x6s, which are also spruce. If they appear yellowish in color, they are probably yellow pine and not good for framing a TD, but OK for house walls (although I wouldn't use them to build a house). If they are white, they are usually spruce. All of my craft show items were made from either spruce, 3/4" birch plywood or both. Easy to work with, takes stain well, and nice appearance. Spars in the trailer won't be seen, but cabinet faces will and I'll use the spruce for those too. Just a personal preference.