Question about Formica

[Classic Finn]

Danny or Len or...

What type of glue does one use to apply formica onto ply? And whats the best way to cut it to size or shape?

[bobhenry]

Contact cement.....

Apply to both the plywood and the underside of the laminate, wait until dry to the touch. To apply the safest way is to use a number of small diameter dowel rods place every 3 to 4 inches apart. Start as square as possible and remove and smooth 1 at a time as you go. Contact cement means just that if it touches it sticks that is the reason for the spacers. Apply it oversized and after a good rolling with a laminate roller ( or the wifes rolling pin) use a router with a ballbearing flush cutting laminate trimmer to cut to size. Square cut sides can be covered exactly the same. Most laminate suppliers will supply pre cut but oversized end caps in the same pattern and color that can be ironed on with heat activated adhesive.

here is a pretty good tutorial http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/kitchen/installation-how-to/applying-laminate/;jsessionid=VSSZM1XQTBS5CCQCEAQB42Q?page=2

[halfdome, Danny]

Heikki, I think I've noticed you have access to some nice woodworking equipment. If you know someone with a cold press it can be glued up with regular woodworking glue in one. Production shops use cold presses and then edge band the edges. I agree with Bobhenry's response too but would suggest only a "J" roller for pressing it into the substrate. A 1/2" oversize both ways is generally all that's needed. Danny

[eamarquardt]

I have some broken roof tiles and have found that epoxying them back together in place is easier than replacing them. Simpson makes a double barreled caulking gun that squirts out the two parts in equal amonts. I usually just squirt it out onto a piece of cardboard and mix with a stick rather than using the expensive nozzles that mix it for you.

Anyway they now keep it behind the contractor's counter and have two types and one is a couple bucks more than the other. When I asked the clerk what the difference was, her reply: This ones more expensive!

I wasn't feeling well (chronic pain was particularly brutal at the time), but kept my real thoughts to myself and replied: I don't think that's the only difference!

She didn't get it.

I bought the cheaper of the two.

Dummies!!!

Cheers,

Gus

[CliffinGA]

I used to work at one of the chain stores and the problem is they cut the older people who knew anything because why pay them 13-20 bucks an hour when they can get a part timer for 7 - 10 dollars an hour and give very little training. Now the "Old Guys" are just older emn trying to get by with a job til the economy comes back.

Cliff

[S. Heisley]

Gage wrote:

As some of you know. I received my 4x8 sheet of Formica counter top matl. a couple of days ago. My question is: How long can I keep it rolled up in the 15"x15" box that it came in before it doesn't want to lay flat when I remove it from the box? I don't need it right now because the F&S is getting some new alum skin on it and I won't get it back for a few weeks from now. Then I'll need it.

I just ordered mine. When I get it, I think I'll put an old sheet over top of the guest bed and lay the unrolled Wilsonart on that until I'm ready for it. (...and hope I don't get any company for a while!)

[Classic Finn]

Heikki, I think I've noticed you have access to some nice woodworking equipment. If you know someone with a cold press it can be glued up with regular woodworking glue in one. Production shops use cold presses and then edge band the edges. I agree with Bobhenry's response too but would suggest only a "J" roller for pressing it into the substrate. A 1/2" oversize both ways is generally all that's needed. Danny

Thats correct Danny I have a few friends here with huge presses that can handle the job.