Noobie Dimensional Questions

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Noobie Dimensional Questions

Postby DMcCam » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:51 pm

Hi Guys, I’m having a ball dreaming, working out my TD plans and reading all the great posts here. There are a few dimensional questions I haven’t found answers to yet and would really appreciate your wisdom.

When you are building the walls, do you make them a little shorter than 4 feet to accommodate the thickness of the roof plywood skin plus the aluminum sheathing so that the finish height is exactly 48â€
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Postby JJKC » Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:16 pm

I would make it to where overall height 48" including everthing-I didn't my first one it just barely covered when I installed the roof. Long as you have attached good right above your frame you shold be able to run your skin past to cover.
The auluminum will come 48" width and they'll just cut what ever lenght you need. I think a few places stock 5' widths.
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Postby bve » Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:18 am

For the most part people are using 1 or 2 layers of 1/8" ply for the roofing (some nothing but the spars) and covering that, so at most you are looking at 1/4" the trim needs to cover, and from what I have seen (read) this hasn't presented any problems.

If I were you I'd be checking with the suppliers in your area to see what is readily available for aluminum and trim and going from there. For me up where I am at I ruled out aluminum pretty early - cost and availability weren't supportive.

I've since found a boat builders' shop and will probably go with an epoxy/fiberglass exterior - I'm going to try to do a woodie. I'm not suggesting against aluminum skin, just that availability seems to vary from place to place.

Good luck with the build, but go easy on the dreaming or you'll end up like me with 3 years of reading/dreaming, flip flopping on ideas :? and nothing much to show for it. :( I've finally committed to just go for it this summer and build a quick basic, budget minded Benroy so I can get out there and learn what I _really_ want in a teardrop.

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Postby DMcCam » Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:37 am

Thanks for the feedback guys. I kinda figured that the size must fit within standard size materials to keep costs down. I'll check local vendors for aluminum size and availability.

About that dreaming...well, I've already got preliminary plans underway and am looking for a trailer!

Cheers, Dave
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Postby Kevin & Sandy » Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:23 pm

My tear is 5' X 10' and 4' tall. I wanted the extra room but wow, cost and availablity of building materials was a big issue. Had to special order the 4 x 10 side plywood, getting aluminum was tough, etc.
I also built with heavy materials (plywood that is prolly too thick, more supports than neccesary) but it was my first attempt !!!

Now I am dreaming about a super light 4 x 8 built on the cheap for a new td project. The wife says to stop dreaiming about teardrops, we already have one !!
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Postby DMcCam » Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:44 pm

Hi Kevin, I was wondering whether you could use standard 4x8 ply for construction then you just need the wider aluminum (if ya go 5 feet)? From what I've read in the posts, the walls don't have to be one piece?

My plan so far is to use 1/2" birch for the walls and cabinets, 1x2's for spars and 'studs', 1/8" birch for the interior skins and 2x 1/8" birch for the outer roof skins. The deck would be a sandwich of 1/2" ply, 1x2 framing and 1/2" ply. I plan on using the aluminum sheathing on the outer walls and roof. I'm 6'2" tall so I need about the same size TD as you made, although I might end up with a 4 foot width.

What do ya think? Dave
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Postby Kevin & Sandy » Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:29 pm

Dave,

Yes, good idea, I used 4 X 8 ply underneath on the roof, then used large aluminum to one-piece it.

Your ply thickness's sound good and the spar dimn's sound. I did things similar to that, then used styrofoam to insulate.

When deciding 4' or 5' width's, place two pieces of plywood vertically four foot apart then lay between them. I'm a big guy and thought it was pretty tight !!

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Postby len19070 » Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:52 pm

One "dimensional" question that hasn't been asked yet is does a 4X8 side profile look proportional?

In my opinion NO.

You should always keep an eye on style.

I always cut my 4X8 trailers down to 44".

Why? I don't know...it makes them look sleeker, longer and just more in proportion.

You never miss the 4" inside and it takes away the "Toad Stool" look.

And we have all seen that.

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48" tall


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Just my eye.

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Postby DMcCam » Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:35 pm

Hi Len, I like the sleeker look too but I'm 6'2" and need as much head room as possible so I'm stretching her to a 4'x 10'! Here's a first look at the design in-progress!

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I've got real space issues for storage so she's going to be as trim as I can make her; 4' for now. Maybe I'll be able to add a little extra...

Cheers, Dave
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Postby doug hodder » Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:58 pm

I'm with Len on that.....making it look appropriate and street appearance is important....helps on a resale also. Doug
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Postby DMcCam » Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:41 pm

Hi Doug, good to hear from ya. We're going to get slammed with winter this next week so it will be a while before we'll get down to meet you.

Cheers, Dave
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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:52 pm

Mine is a weekender, not a true teardrop shape. But I made it 5x10x5. I paid a heavy premium in materials. Now I am designing a 4x8 in my mind, and want to see just how fast and inexpensively I can make it. The best way to make construction fast is to take lots of time in design... :D

I'm 6'4", hence the 10' length. But I had a 4x8 before, and even though it was a bit short for sleeping, so are all beds less than queen. I can adapt by bending my knees a bit!

I like the 44" height, Len. It definitely makes a sleeker profile.

Dave, at 10' length, the 48" looks fine. You might look for 4x10 ply. having to put a seam in the ply adds a lot of work to make it look smooth! :applause:
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