OK Type of Router to get?

[Muggnz]

I recommend buying one with a round ( circular ) base. I had one with straight sides, it was a pain to cut around corners. My round base one is easy, as the center is always the same distance from the bit. AND if I do need to cut in a straight line, it has a guide to stop me from going astray.

I'd also get one capable of taking bigger cutting bits, as you will probably find that :
a. the bigger bits last longer
&
b. you'll have a larger variety of bits available
&
c. there will always be a way of using the smaller bits.

david

[Kelleyaynn]

I've looked at used PC routers on Ebay.

Does anyone know how these models differ? They all seem like they might be more or less the 690 recommended by so many here.

The 690

The 6902

The 690LR

???????????

[halfdome, Danny]

The 690 is the original that has a thumb screw to lock/unlock the base.
The 690 LR has a lever Release to lock/unlock the base.
I have both and they perform the same with the 690LR being somewhat easier to lock/unlock. Danny

[Cliffmeister2000]

I have several. One is a cheap chinese that I bought on line, and it is the only one I have with a 1/2" collet. It lives permanently in the router table. I have an old Craftsman I bought new, and a new Craftsman I bought used from a pawnshop on eBay. And I have a Makita I bought at a yard sale for $40. I actually bought 2 for the combined price of $40, but I don't remember the brand of the other one.

The one I use the most is in the router table, because I use the router table a ton. I built my own router table (bought the insert on eBay from the guy I bought the router from).

The Pawn Shop Craftsman is my second favorite. It probably does not compare to the Porter Cable, but the price was right, and it is an excellent router. It originally came with 1/4" and 1/2" collets, but the pawn shop didn't have the 1/2" collet. Some day I'll pick one up. This sells for $129, but I got it for $60. Soft start and LED worklight.



Here's the router table I built. Very simple, works great.

[toypusher]

Are you going to use the router after your build is done? If you only reason for buying one is to build a teardrop and maybe use it a couple times later for something, then I would not worry much about the 'lasting quality' of it like you get with a Porter Cable or Bosch, etc. Just get something that you can easily afford. Most any router will get you through the build and most likely last for years to come.

Just my opinion here! Your mileage may vary.

For the record: I have a PC 690D and a DeWalt and a Craftsman and a small trim router from HF.

[Cliffmeister2000]

Don't forsake eBay, Craigslist, and yard sales! It's amazing what you can get with patience!

Edit:

Here's a Porter Cable 690 on eBay, currently under $50.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/Porter-Cable-690-Ro ... 414c836bcf

These are $150 - $300 new, bepending on the reseller.

[afreegreek]

I've looked at used PC routers on Ebay.

Does anyone know how these models differ? They all seem like they might be more or less the 690 recommended by so many here.

The 690

The 6902

The 690LR

???????????

690 is the basic 1-3/4 hp fixed base router - older model.
690LR is the same router with soft grips and has a cam lever to lock the base in position rather than the twist nut type - newer model
6902 is the motor only - no base

[GreatPumpkin]

I recommend buying one with a round ( circular ) base. I had one with straight sides, it was a pain to cut around corners. My round base one is easy, as the center is always the same distance from the bit. AND if I do need to cut in a straight line, it has a guide to stop me from going astray...

david

Actually, regardless of the brand/price/quality, you will find that none of them are exactly centered. There is a very slight difference between the center of the bit and the edges. Working with bits that have a guide bearing, you won't notice it. Cutting along a straight edge guide you might notice it if you have a tendency to rotate the router as you cut. Using a guide collar or a dovetail jig, and the "slight" difference will show up even greater. Here's an article that explains it a little more in detail: http://www.newwoodworker.com/cntrguidecolr.html

[toypusher]

I recommend buying one with a round ( circular ) base. I had one with straight sides, it was a pain to cut around corners. My round base one is easy, as the center is always the same distance from the bit. AND if I do need to cut in a straight line, it has a guide to stop me from going astray...

david

Actually, regardless of the brand/price/quality, you will find that none of them are exactly centered. There is a very slight difference between the center of the bit and the edges. Working with bits that have a guide bearing, you won't notice it. Cutting along a straight edge guide you might notice it if you have a tendency to rotate the router as you cut. Using a guide collar or a dovetail jig, and the "slight" difference will show up even greater. Here's an article that explains it a little more in detail: http://www.newwoodworker.com/cntrguidecolr.html

Good point and that is why I really like my 'D' handle. Makes it easy to keep the router from turning while following a straight (or not straight) edge.

[afreegreek]

I recommend buying one with a round ( circular ) base. I had one with straight sides, it was a pain to cut around corners. My round base one is easy, as the center is always the same distance from the bit. AND if I do need to cut in a straight line, it has a guide to stop me from going astray...

david

Actually, regardless of the brand/price/quality, you will find that none of them are exactly centered. There is a very slight difference between the center of the bit and the edges. Working with bits that have a guide bearing, you won't notice it. Cutting along a straight edge guide you might notice it if you have a tendency to rotate the router as you cut. Using a guide collar or a dovetail jig, and the "slight" difference will show up even greater. Here's an article that explains it a little more in detail: http://www.newwoodworker.com/cntrguidecolr.html

the article you posted is a good one that everybody should read. my Milwaukee router came with a base plate that is counterbored and uses pan head screws for attachment to the router base and it comes with a centring cone. however, most routers like the Porter Cable use countersunk holes with flat head screws. this system makes it impossible to centre the plate over the bit as the screws determine the final position when they are tightened.

anyone who wants to use template guides and get accurate results should drill new counterbored holes in the base plate and pick up some panhead screws as well as a centring cone.

** the holes you drill should be a little bigger, say 1/32" than the shank of the screw you'll be using.. you need a little play so you can move the plate around a bit.

[Muggnz]

Actually, regardless of the brand/price/quality, you will find that none of them are exactly centered. There is a very slight difference between the center of the bit and the edges. Working with bits that have a guide bearing, you won't notice it. Cutting along a straight edge guide you might notice it if you have a tendency to rotate the router as you cut. Using a guide collar or a dovetail jig, and the "slight" difference will show up even greater. Here's an article that explains it a little more in detail: http://www.newwoodworker.com/cntrguidecolr.html

With the "quality" work I'm currently doing this isn't a worry. But well worth noting for future reference. thanks for the great www ref.

[Cliffmeister2000]

I just got my Rockler ad. Porter Cable 690LR, reconditioned, $99.99

http://tinyurl.com/y8fbjfs

This link is intermittent for some reason. If interested and it doesnt work for you, just call 800-279-4441 and ask about it.

[ajricher]

none of them are exactly centered

And this is what a marker/grease pencil is for - when doing a pattern cut mark the base to give yourself an alignment - point the mark at the material and keep it there.

or, do what I did and file and paint-fill a groove in the top of the base for a permanent mark - just do your default to-center measurement at that point, note it on the router base in permanent marker and you can get consistent results cut to cut.

Alan

[tdouglas]

[quote="Mightydog"]PC makes good stuff. Anyone who watches Norm on New Yankee Workshop sees him work with it every week.

However...



We have a Milwaukee 5615-20 router and love it. The handle design makes control very easy. It adjusts quickly, easily and accurately every time. And, well, it's a Milwaukee. We upgraded to the 1/2-inch collet for the larger bits and a little better feel while working

I have to agree with you on this one.