New saw blade recommendations needed

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby afreegreek » Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:19 pm

Larwyn wrote:
afreegreek wrote:
Larwyn wrote:
afreegreek wrote:
Gary J wrote:I spent the $100+ price on a very nice Forrest combo blade and then read wood magazine's test of blades. They rated the comparable tooth Rigid blades (Home depot) as a better blade at a $40+ price, so I bought one. It is a much narrower blade and makes a smoother cut. I use the Rigid blade most of the time and reccommend it when ever asked. You can purchase almost 3 blades for the price of one Forrest (which is a great blade). When the Rigid blade gets dull I intend to chuck it. The Forrest blade need special sharpening.

Gary
actually the "special" sharpening a Forrest needs is called a finer grit grind than what other blade companies and sharpening services use.. the sharpening service I use will do it if requested for a few dollars more.

OH, and if you're getting better cuts from a $40.00 blade, there's something wrong with your saw or you have a crap saw because on a good cabinet saw the Forrest blade will make a smoother cut per tooth than ANY blade out there. I get as advertised, smooth as sanded surface with no tear out. in fact the difference is so great that I bring my own blades to work and pay to have them sharpened myself just so I can have the quality of cut I've become used to from them..

most of there blades styles are available in the thin (3/32) kerf too.


If a saw can have a defect that would cause it to cut better with a cheap blade than a "better" blade I want my saw to have that defect!! What is it and how can it be induced in a saw which, unfortunately, is not defective? :lol: :lol:
OK, lift the throat cover and remove blade. take cold chisel and hammer. place chisel against arbor flange and give good firm hit with hammer.. the harder the better. enjoy equally crappy cuts from every blade you ever buy..


My "Unisaw money" is tied up in welding equipment
and clamp..
afreegreek
500 Club
 
Posts: 723
Images: 0
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:35 pm

Postby Larwyn » Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:29 pm

afreegreek wrote:and clamp..


Guilty!!! :thumbsup: :beer:
Larwyn

Keeper of the Most Out Of Control Shop (2005)

I feel bad for the man that cannot spell a word more than one way. Mark Twain
User avatar
Larwyn
Mad Kilted Texan
 
Posts: 1658
Images: 210
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2004 12:06 pm
Location: Kerrville, Texas

Postby Gary and Cheri » Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:19 pm

My saw is a Grizzly Cabinet style 3 horse 220 amp saw that I often aline and know how to aline correctly with digital instruments. It provides a great cut and is an excellent saw with no problems.

Quality of a cut is always subjective. I feel the Rigid blade does as well as a blade that is much more expensive. Enough said.

Gary
" I started out with nothing and I have most of it left." Groucho Marx

Image

With each grey hair I'm another step closer to becoming a wizard!
User avatar
Gary and Cheri
500 Club
 
Posts: 818
Images: 13
Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: Wisconsin, Burlington
Top

Previous

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests