jdp898989's zvue review

[cracker39]

Charlie, you're right. I was referring only to part of your information, not taking all of it into account. I didn't intend that anyone ignore your information and didn't mean to disparage any of it. I thought I did make clear earlier that everyone is entitled to his own opionion and way of doing things. It's the variety of ways that make this forum interesting, and most of the time, very helpful. And, there are different types of boat building techniques, some simple, some elaborate. It's the latter that I think, in most cases, are overkill for small trailers.

I apologize if I offended you or anyone else.

[Laredo]

okay, guys; not wanting to hijack the thread.

Has anyone used a plywood "matrix" (cf the diy overhead camper for a cut-down Volkswagen bug at rqriley.com) for the sides and/or hatch frame?

I was having nightmares the other evening after reading our host's threat to make somebody build a complete tear with dovetails, but then it occurred to me that such a thing would be a natural for the jointure in a weekender.

(note: I did not say it would be easy)

[doug hodder]

Cracker...I've done butt joints on boats with no problem...I would think if you are doing 1/4 inch walls...that you are probably going to insulate them...just back up the joint with another piece of 1/4 to lap it, maybe 8" wide...should be no problem....just what I've done....Doug

[cracker39]

Doug, I'm doing more than that. I'm placing some of the 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" wide framing so that it will back up the joints. My side will span over 11' and will be over 7' high, so 3 sheets will be used with vertical joints. The top joints will be every 4' with 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" spars to back them. Here is a diagram of the left side framing. The blue dotted lines represent the plywood sheets. The green is the part of the framing that will back up the joints. On the right side, only a couple of inches of joint will be needed for the front two sheets, as they meet only at the top of the door.



Since I am making a template for the sides, for simplicity's sake, I am making the framing for both sides nearly identical. The door framing will be on the left side as well as the right, with framing added for the ply joint and small window.

[critter]

thanks guys,
i ended up using a butt joint w/gorilla glue and as always i came up with a better idea after is was all done.i just got a fyler in the mail from woodcraft and in it the had tongue & groove bits for the router.i wish i had thought of that earlier.that tongue & groove joint would have been better i think.maybe #2 gets that! it would have made for better seams and would have given more surface area for glue and been stronger also.
whuddya think?

[cracker39]

I think I'd consider the ply thicknbess before I tried T&G with a router. With my 5.3mm skin, I think it too thin to try T&G. It may be a little thin to try routing a lap joint. I'll probably stick with the butt joint with beveled edges for filling the crack with bondo or epoxy with wood dust in it.

[critter]

hay all,
i wuz thinkin more allong the line of the 1/2 in stufff i used as side walls,its seems it would be better way to joint it!

[jay]

at the top of the page, just under the title, there's a bunch of options. the second from the left, the little magnifying glass, = search.

left click it once, and a window will open. fill out the questionairre as complete as possible, and at the bottom hits "search" and hold on to your hat!