by JLaman » Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:08 am
John,
I did the hatch trim a little different than others have I think. I used the "L" molding from RW Johnson that comes in 9ft lengths. When I contemplated the hatch molding, the rubber seal, and the hinge I realized that most builders removed an additional 1/4 in. from the sides where the hatch meets the side. This is necessary to allow room for the rubber seal. Because I put two layers of 1/8 plywood on both the hatch and the roof, I didn't want to expose the edges of that plywood to weather and I also didn't want to try to cut out another 1/4 in from both sides. So, I stopped the hatch outer plywood at the edge of the hatch, or flush with the outer hatch rib. Only the 0.040 aluminum extends past the last rib on the hatch. You can see this in one of the photos on my album -- Pic Title: View of the hinge and galley hatch from behind. You can see the outer rib, some silver silicon caulk, and the 5/16 white rubber seal in that view. The aluminum sheet on the hatch is screwed at 4" centers to the last rib - you can see the screws in the Pic Title: View of the TinTop from the rear. I used blind rivets to attach the "L" molding to the hatch aluminum skin - 1/8 short aluminum. I think some were skeptical that this would work, but the curve of the hatch really stiffens the 0.040 aluminum -- it hardly flexes at all and doesn't miss having the plywood extend to support it. I am very pleased with how it worked out and the fact that all the wood is behind the rubber seal.
I hope this helps explain what I did. I copied a lot of it from a builder named Denny -- remembered his name since yesterday. He has photos on the site album as well. I also had a few frustrating moments, but made it to completion. Just take your time and you will get it right.
Jeff L.
