Nosty wrote:Madjack, I was hoping you'd respond to this. I know you're the resident Raka enthusiast. I've read through a lot of your posts regarding Raka epoxy. Thank you, Sir.
Thank you all for your responses. I really appreciate it. I think I've got the pre-performance jitters. Your replies have given me that shot of confidence I needed. With all the work that's gone into the TTT this far, ruining the finish would be just about as bad as it gets.
I'm sure I'll have further questions in the next week, but between your great responses, and the literature I've read, I may just get through this without having a nervous breakdown.
Thanks again.
Brian
Brian,
Are you glassing everything or just taping the seams? It sounds like your just sealing with epoxy and taping the seams.
Madjack and others have given you plenty of good info. I will just add a few of my own from my experience with Raka.
BTW/ I hope you bought Raka's non-blush hardener
I have one big tip that I use all the time: "Work Clean'
Mask off all areas you don't want epoxy to get on even if it will get epoxy later. I buy vinyl wallpaper at the dollar store. I cut the rolls into shorter lengths depending on what I am doing. I use the wall paper as masking paper. Epoxy won't soak into the vinyl. Use blue painters tape and the wall paper to mask just beyond the edge of your seam tape.
If you just allow epoxy to build up in multiple layers that are not evenly applied, you will have lumps and bumps that will have to scraped or sanded off.
I am assuming your just taping the seams and not glassing everything, I would try to put a radius on outside seams edges as fiberglass doesn't work well over a right angle.
With a helper roll out your seam tape, which I don't use. I use Bias cut strips cut from FG cloth. Stretch the tape by gently pulling on it and don't let it hit the ground. Stretching the tape will help puckered edges lay flat.
There are several methods to apply the tape, one that might be best for a first timer is this:
Wet out the area where the tape will go with a thin coat of epoxy. Remember to mask everything else. let the epoxy set till its tacky and no longer wet. Your finger will stick to it.
You can now slowly apply the tape. It will stick to the tacky epoxy and not move around. You will have to work out wrinkles as you go along. I like this method because it allows you a lot of time to get things straight without the tape sliding around.
Once your happy with the tape being flat on the surface, you can wet out the tape with epoxy, squeegee and soak up excess with paper towel. You want just enough epoxy to throughly wet the tape. Later fill coats will bury the tape. BTW/ I rarely mix more than 4 oz. of epoxy at a time when working with glass, no matter how big the project. Small batches allow me plenty of time to properly apply the epoxy without rushing.
Keep an eye on the tape job for the next couple of hours, revisiting it frequently. Tape doesn't like curves and can lift by it self. Keep pushing it back down. If it just wont stay, you may have to cut slits at the pucker, this usually solves the problem. Remember, pre-stretching the dry FG tape helps here.
Another tip: if you get excess epoxy in a spot and can't squeegee it off easily, just soak it up with a paper towel.
Always remember.... with epoxy "less is more" use the least amount that will do the job, it's better to apply several thin coats than one thick one. Sanding cured epoxy is not a fun job, so the time spent applying even coats without runs (paper towel trick) will save hours of sanding later on.
I suggest you try this on some scrap to get familiar with the process. and remember "work clean"
Good luck and keep the questions coming.
Larry C
That's about my luck.
