Wall insulation thickness..

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Re: Wall insulation thickness..

Postby Joanne » Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:44 am

Grummy,

Welcome to the group! We are always glad to have new members join in the insanity. The more folks doing it, the more normal the rest of us look! 8)

I remember the '70s and all the vans. I saw a few of them that were really nice. Since you've done van conversion work you obviously have the skills to build a nice trailer. You may have some ideas and techniques from conversions that will work in the trailers as well. I'll look forward to hearing about your build once you get started. (It only took me around 3 years before I started.)

Welcome again,
Joanne

Oh yeah, so I'm not negligent. "We love photos! Be sure to post them as you start your build!"




Grummy wrote:
arnereil wrote:t... the wall are just cold to the touch at night.


Ok, my first post. I have been drooling over building a tear as well as all those pictures of the ones built by members of this group !

I'm going to build one, and have started drawing. Just not sure when and where I am going to fit it in yet....


Anyhow, Regarding walls "cold to the touch", maybe you could consider just glueing cloth to the walls ? I used to do a lot of Van conversion stuff, and I would routinely line the van with Luan, then glue some 3/8" or 1/2" carpet pad to to the luan, then glue upholstery material to that. It adds a little insulative value, keeps it not cold to the touch and looks great !

If you can do the above, you are adding what you need without reworking the walls.

Grummy
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Postby Ira » Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:44 am

Hey, Grummy--welcome!

Sounds like a cool plan. Would you consider doing the same for the interior roof? (As you probably already know, we don't call that a "ceiling" here!)

I ask because of potential difficulty setting the fabric/carpet on the roof against the law of gravity. But since you've done this for vans, maybe this isn't an issue at all.

Got any ideas on which TD design you're leaning towards?
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Postby madjack » Sun Jan 08, 2006 1:09 pm

Grummy welcome to the world wide T&TTT insanity meetin' and greetin' place...your van conversion background should do you well around here and as Joanne said, we look forward to the pics of your build 'cause we really do luv da pics. So figure what you want and know that we will be here to answer/opinionize on all your questions :D ;)
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Postby Grummy » Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:43 pm

Ira wrote:Hey, Grummy--welcome!

Sounds like a cool plan. Would you consider doing the same for the interior roof? (As you probably already know, we don't call that a "ceiling" here!)


Yep. The trick is to use the correct glue. I spent about 10 years in auto upholstery and that included vinyl tops and of course the van thing. And, yes, I do SEW (shouldn't everyone ? :-) I also spent quite a few years wroking on luxury Yachts (Burger Boats) both in upholstery and in later years electronics. I doubt I will be able to put the same amount of pure gold plating in my future tear as some of those boat owners do ! :-)

We used to puchase 5 gallon buckets of a special glue for vinyl top work, and subsequently used it for literally everything from glueing foam slabs together to holding up headliners. It was a rather thick glue, and you would drop it in a typical Binks spray gun and spray both the backside of the material and the part you were placing it on. You'd wait a few minutes, then drop the material on. Most materials allowed you to yank it back loose a few times in order to get things stretched. It was a glue that could take high heat once set, an important aspect if you want to KEEP the material up where it belongs (which means those little spray cans of 3M stuff will likely let stuff droop when the sun comes out.

As far as me knowing how to do it right, well, conversion vans were typically never "right".... just as fast and cheap as possible. The boats were VERY different with prices between 40 and 80 million each!

Got any ideas on which TD design you're leaning towards?

Sure do..... two DIFFERENT ones ! I have drawn the typical "Cub" style and fell in love with its fabulous smooth lines. No matter what I build, I will go 5' wide x 10' long, and I will cover the frame on the sides.

But, then I fell in love with the useability of Rik Kellers Road Toad style, albeit with a twist. I drew mine with the full rear hatch and a front galley like the Jim Dandy. I figure this way I could haul my wife and I's Yamaha V-Stars to events AND Camp, or well, just camp. Kind of a dual purpose trailer, and as a camper at 10' and no rear galley, there will be room for a portapotti and a mattress. The front galley works for me (knee knocker tounge) because I know I won't spend much time "in the kitchen" when I am camping anyhow. a stick and a hot dog is good enough for me (well and a beverage). I do want to get Rik's permission though if I go this route, as I do not want to just copy what he did.

So here is the tuff part. I have way too many hobbies. I somehow HAVE to do this though. I dont have one, but I AM addicted. There is no going back.

The good news is, I hobby in CNC stuff. I have a 2'x4' CNC Router at home and an engraver, but I have Exclusive use to a roughly 6' x 10' CNC Router where I work !!!

You know what that means ? I can zing out profiles and parts with precision and speed.
If I could just commit to a specific shape, I could get started !

So, I do not know exactly when I will get underway, but teardrops and this group are really sumthin' !

Thanks for the warm welcome,

Grummy
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Postby Grummy » Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:48 pm

arnereil wrote:Grummy, I've been thinking about something like that..... it could be as simple as a carpet sample... d


Carpet, depending on what you end up with, can be heavier than cloth..... If you have a surplus upholstery Fabric shop that you can get to, you can likely find something that would work perfectly. Regarding foam behind it and if you choose to use it, you do not want the ground up looking stuff, just the light weight pink or blue stuff. It makes quite a difference even for moisture problems that people might suffer from as there is no cold surface to let water condense on. It certainly wouldn't hurt to air things out to dry though if things do get damp.


Grummy
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Postby Micro469 » Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:20 pm

[quote="Grummy

We used to puchase 5 gallon buckets of a special glue for vinyl top work





And the name of that glue was........????? :)
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Postby Micro469 » Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:22 pm

I guess I gotta work on pasting quotes too.... :oops:
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Postby Micro469 » Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:27 pm

Micro469 wrote:I guess I gotta work on pasting quotes too.... :oops:
John
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Postby Grummy » Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:46 am

Micro469 wrote:And the name of that glue was........????? :)


Ya... Good question. I wish I could tell you. It was just whatever our supplier at the time slapped his own label on. Anyone familiar with the old green contact adhesive used for formica top work ? It was almost the same, slightly less smell, and had some anti-plastisizer additive.

It was thick stuff, but it would spray out of a regular spray gun. I just googled and I am sure the Landau adhesive here would be the same stuff:
http://www.atrim.com/Page67.html

Here is a "High Temp" "K-Grip" adhesive, that'll work.....
http://www.glfi.com/scGlueK-GripPlus.gif


In another recent thread, a fellow aksed about using vinyl on the outside of his tear. Sure can ! I built a truck camper for my Datsun 620, sealed it up good with clear urethane and covered it with pebble grain white vinyl, the same stuff we made Truck tonneau's out of. Today, you really have a lot of great options in this regard with modern marine fabrics.
"SunBrella" was just one of those modern indestrucible fabrics I did a lot with.
http://www.glfi.com/marinecatalog_sunbr ... repage.htm

I dont know what my tear is going to be covered with yet, but it just might be a fabric over a thin wood skin.

Grummy
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Postby bobinohio » Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:56 pm

Grummy wrote:Ya... Good question. I wish I could tell you. It was just whatever our supplier at the time slapped his own label on. Anyone familiar with the old green contact adhesive used for formica top work ? It was almost the same, slightly less smell, and had some anti-plastisizer additive.

Grummy


I do remember the old green stuff. Wish I could find it again... I also remember those "commercial use only" and "industrial use only" stickers put on a B&W label that looked like a photocopy of a real label. You had no idea who actually made it. Who needs mdss or msds or whatever those things are that say don't drink contact cement... (evbody nose yer sposed ta sniffit anyways). WHOA! I just felt a few dozen dainbrells cie. Deja vu all over again :lol:

I'm real new here- solvent hasn't even flashed off yet, but welcome.

Bob
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Postby bobinohio » Mon Jan 09, 2006 6:29 pm

powderburn wrote:There is a lot of strength in 1.5 insulation.I built a 2'x2'x4' cooler out of 2 inch insulation that lasted throughout 2 summers of camping.I built it using nothing more than rabbit joints and silicon.


powderburn wrote: Ive been building a TD in my head that is nothing but styrofoam insulation and fiberglass coatings inside and out.I dont know enough about fiberglass yet but,maybe after I build a new cooler,I might try it.


You mentioned that glass foam sandwichthing somewhere else too.... I was driving home... thinkin'... and

A few years ago (well,maybe 25 or30) a guy named Ken Rand- I think- designed and built small airplanes. He built the ... KR-1(?) a styrofoam/ fiberglass sandwich single seater. There may have been a KR-2, -3, or -4 too. Popular Mechanics or Science maybe? Maybe he wrote a book- almost positive he sold plans... Soon after he developed it fiberglass/ resin prices shot up so much the little VW powered critter wasn't nearly so inexpensive.

I think he also had a hand in something that was in the news... should remember... all that green contact cement :?

Didn't you used to have a drawing under your name?

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