Question on bunk construction...

[EffieRover]

First project on the new (old) camper. I searched for this several ways - I'm a bit overwhelmed with the answers, but can't find the dimensions I'm looking for. I know somebody out there has the experience to answer this.

Camper has a bunk piece I need to replace. It is in two sections - 76x27 and 76x16 with a piano hinge down the middle to fold. It rests on a full-length angle bracket. It's that thing across the middle of the photo below ... the 76x16 piece is completely missing and the 3/4" has a lovely set of water marks right in the middle.



The current piece is 3/4" plywood with a 1x4 strip across the front. Heavier than a ... well, it would be easiest to throw down another piece of 3/4", but I'd like to build it lighter. Going through the forums and design plans, I see 2x2 bunk frames and plywood with 1by or 2by all around the bottom - but I don't want to add to the thickness if possible; I just want to be able to lift it by myself.

If I make a frame and slats of 3/4" hardwood, how many will I need to keep it stable at that width? 1/8" plywood okay or do I need something like 3/8" on top? There will be two children up there and I'd like it to last until they fly the coop.

Thanks so much for all the info and experience you guys share

[GPW]

What about using a hollow core door ??? They're light , and I slept on a bed made of one all through my teen years ...

[EffieRover]

Huh. Never thought of that ... really interesting idea! Not sure it would fit in the space, but I can model the construction after it and that gives me a starting point. Thanks!

[aggie79]

What about using a hollow core door ??? They're light , and I slept on a bed made of one all through my teen years ...

You may also want to look at bifold hollow core doors. You'll have to cut them down but they are very strong for the weight/price. The skins are a little thin. I'd add another thin skin to the top.

I use a pair of bifold doors with two sawhorses as a temporary work surface. They will support my 200# weight standing midspan.

[bobhenry]

Two 18" bifold doors would be much stronger than a 36"
hollow core door because you have 2 more stiffeners.
( The wood added at the edges)

They come in several widths 9 , 12 , 15 , 18 and 24 inch panels

I pick up the 12 and 15 inch widths to use as shelving.
They are prefinished and look great in the house as
well as handy in the shop.

They can be shortened as needed by cutting with a fine
toothed crosscut blade ( They generally state for paneling
and fine cuts)
You can remove and reglue in the edge stiffener
or simply cut a new one on the table saw to fit right in.

[EffieRover]

Love that! I'm sure I can find a 15" section at the local Grossman's ... and after cutting it down to 76", I'll be done!

Thanks

[Tadlan]

Awesome idea with the bifold doors. I am planning on doing a roll out bunk from under the cabinets in my TD. I never even thought of using a bifold door. I was going to build it from scratch.

[EffieRover]

Thanks for the idea on the bifold doors!



It did take me a while to find actual wood doors (first set I found was a luan veneer over pressboard - blech!) I used three 15" sections to replace the bunk - two glued & screwed together and one piano-hinged. Rail is a piece of 1x8 poplar, ripped down, notched, and rounded over. Haven't decided on how to cover the screw heads yet; they're countersunk, just not covered. Open to suggestions...



Only one problem I have right now ... the new bunk makes the rest of the camper look, well ... blech

[Cliffmeister2000]

This was a nice thread. One question, several answers all pointing to the same thing, a completed project. No controversy.

[GPW]

^