I need some drawer slides...

[eamarquardt]

These guys have slides in all "cost effective" ranges:

http://www.drawerslides.com/p/ac7950-c36

The ones I cited earlier had like a 882# capacity. Heavy duty.

I agree an "auxiliary" locking mechanism with a bolt or other device should be easy to sort out and install. Also, might be a bit more "user friendly" and intuitively obvious on how to use than some of the latches built into the slides.

Cheers,

Gus

[dh]

Extra heavy duty price too.

These might work for you.


http://www.knapeandvogt.com/8908_Extra- ... 64#details

It seems they only have the lock in lock out feature on their extra heavy duty slides.

[Mikka]

Check these at Lee Valley tools (www.leevalleytools.com)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/pa ... 3614,43620
lots of slides and other hardc to find stuff for precision builds,

[Mikka]

oops found these at a much more friendly price.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/pa ... 3614,43616

[glenpinpat]

I do not know if you have anything like it near you but I have bought many from the renew it store(habitat for humanity) they have all kinds and of all quality. For my fridge I used the popups sliders just cut them to size.

[dh]

Check these at Lee Valley tools (www.leevalleytools.com)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/pa ... 3614,43620
lots of slides and other hardc to find stuff for precision builds,

I like the lever lock on these, and they will hold up if I ever decide I need to use the slide out as a diving board.

oops found these at a much more friendly price.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/pa ... 3614,43616

These only lock in, but I lke the price.

[dh]

These guys have slides in all "cost effective" ranges:

http://www.drawerslides.com/p/ac7950-c36

The ones I cited earlier had like a 882# capacity. Heavy duty.

I agree an "auxiliary" locking mechanism with a bolt or other device should be easy to sort out and install. Also, might be a bit more "user friendly" and intuitively obvious on how to use than some of the latches built into the slides.

Cheers,

Gus

I had a guy from drawerslides.com call me today, but I was litterally inside an injection molding machine and couldn't get the phone. I'll call 'em back monday.


Is this your idea of cost effective Gus?

Availability: In Stock
Sold As: pair
Weight: 16.333lbs
List Price: $165.42
Your Price: $122.54
Your Savings: $42.89 (25.9%)

[doug hodder]

DH...here's a poor mans approach to it. I get the sliders from HD. I get them rated for the appropriate weights. I've had no problem with them on the coolers and my cooler loaded will run 85#. I use a barrel type catch that locks into a spot on the floor on the cooler tray. I also install the cooler tray sliders so they are resting on the floor for extra support, and not rely solely on the screws in the wall. I slide it in and out all the time, daily.

For the stove, since they only have a pinch type catch, I use some rubber door stops and wedge them in when traveling and in use. Pull it out, wedge it with a door stop. Since I only use a white gas type Coleman, it steadies it when I pump. For me, it works fine, not exactly high tech, but it's just the price of some decent sliders and 2$ for a stop. Once out in operating position, it hasn't been an issue. I usually drape my kitchen towel over the stove slider when traveling so it won't move and hit the interior of the hatch.

Not what you wanted to hear....but beats the price of the high dollar sliders. Just an idea. Doug

[eamarquardt]

Is this your idea of cost effective Gus?

Availability: In Stock
Sold As: pair
Weight: 16.333lbs
List Price: $165.42
Your Price: $122.54
Your Savings: $42.89 (25.9%)

Not sure what model and capacity slides these are. "Cost effective" is in the pocketbook of the spender. For a lot of folks the ONLY consideration seems to be initial cost. Cost effective to me means in the "long run". I just spent about $10 to put a new bearing in a Makita grinder I've had for 30 years. It is reliable and repairable and has let me down once in 30 years. It wasn't the least expensive at the initial purchase but has been "cost effective" over the years. I have a couple of HF air grinders that have lasted a few hours at best but they're only $10. After you factor in the cost of your time stopping what you're doing and going to the store, they're not "cost effective" in my book. The next one I buy will be "industrial grade" and it will probably outlast me.

So, I'd choose a name brand slide, shop around for price and availability, and go for a capacity rating of about twice what I'd really expect to load it to. Also choose slides with an extension that fits your requirements. Retrofitting with heaver slides after a failure may or may not be easy and will certainly be more work than using a good somewhat oversized/high capacity slide in the first place. For a lot of the materials in a teardrop you can use less expensive materials and they won't affect the serviceablilty of your trailer. Quality slides for a cooler or burner will make your life more pleasant in the long run and will see more wear and tear than a non moving part.

I'm fortunate not to be constrained by cost. Suzy can afford what ever I want (and she's learning to get over it/like it in record time!).

"Choose wisely" (Knight in Indiana Jones movie).

Cheers,

Gus

[droid_ca]

if you don't mind me asking what you using them for might give us a better idea

[dh]

I need it to lock open too. It isn't going on a drawer, but a pull out for the stove, so it has to lock open and closed.

Here is another positive closed one......

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21480&filter=DRAWER%20SLIDE%20STOPS

Why couldn't a button type friction catch be added between the side rail of the drawer and the cabinet face.

[eric wolf]

I used Accuride 3832 TR (touch release) the can also be abtained in HDTR which are heavy duty.

[yahtzee]

I live in the cabinetry world, and I would go with a accuride 3832 which holds closed, but not open. at 8-15 dollars a pair and lengths from 6" to 28" in increments of 2".

1/2" side clearance required, I would then rig some kind of mechanism to keep it open. I would think a slide bolt in the back that would run the bolt out past the front of the cabinet would work great.