Galvanised Sheet over Calico = condensation ?

[Lancie49]

Gooday girls and boys.

I've struck a bit of a dilemma with the TD I'm doing.
It's covered in calico and obviously needs some stone protection across the front panel.
I have a 1.2mm sheet of gal I'm going to use, the question is...........

If I use an adhesive or silicon type product to stick it, am likely to get condensation between the gal and the calico ?

Obviously the last thing I want is moisture trapped between the sheet and the front panel.

Your thoughts ?

[Shadow Catcher]

I am assuming the Calico is some sort of FRP? If you run a bead of silicone around the edge I would think that would take care of it.

[Lancie49]

Ahh, you blokes may not know calico, sorry.

It a cotton fabric similar to a light weight canvas.
I used 2 layers, glued to the roof panel, with 6 coats of acrylic paint over the second layer.
I'm assuming the coats of paint should protect it all from damage should any moisture get between the gal sheet and the painted fabric.
But obviously I'd like to eliminate that possibility altogether.

Thoughts ?

[48Rob]

lance,

the only way you can get condensation between the two is if air can penetrate one of the layers, or get between the two layers.
As sc suggested, if you seal all edges well so no moisture or air can get between them, you'll be fine.
This assumes of course that if you use any mechanical fasteners, they those penetrations are also sealed.

Rob

[mezmo]

Would it be possible to mount it on a series of spacers between
it and the TD body? That way there'd be air flow behind it between
the rock guard and the body wall. Using silicone as the spacer glue
to the body and as the glue to hold on the rock guard metal to the
spacers should eliminate any condensation between those specific
items while allowing air flow in the gap between the rock guard metal
and the TD body. Just remember you can't paint silicone readily
[at all?] so choose clear or white or other color as fits your need if
you go that route.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Lancie49]

I'm sort of torn between fixing it permanently directly to the front panel and eliminate all moisture with a method as described by Rob, or mounting it proud of the front panel as suggested by Noem.

At this stage, I think I prefer the direct, fully sealed option as it would hopefully be maintenance free and secure.

If further down the track there is evidence of water damage under the steel sheet, I guess it would mean cutting the plywood panel away and replacing.

[48Rob]

Lance,

i faced a similar situation with my wood bodied, varnished trailer.
I thought about fiberglassing the front, and or applying some sort of shield over the wood.

In the end i chose to simply clean, and apply a new layer of varnish every couple years.
This method allows me to keep a close watch on the condition of the wood.

I would think that your treated canvas would hold up to rocks and bugs pretty well, with just a light sanding and new top coat of paint when you start to see damage.

I also carry a small bottle of clear fingernail polish, which is just clear lacquer, to touch up any obvious rock chips until the next recoat.It has worked well for going on 7 years now.

Rob

[Lancie49]

We travel different roads down here Rob.
I took this TD on it's first run a coupla weeks ago, stopped at the camp on the second night and found this.

DSCI1097.jpg (99.56 KiB) Viewed 498 times

Also note condition of freshly painted mudguard...........................

Yep, I reckon I need a sheet o steel

[48Rob]

Hmmmm

May be best to get some armor plating...

They make clear vinyl protector sheets that would help with the fenders, but you might need some pretty heavy panels for the front...
Thanks for the pics, and let us know what solution you choose

Rob

[Corwin C]

Wow ... did that limb go all the way through? From the looks of it, even steel would be hard-pressed to come through unscathed.

When off-road, I'm more of a "crawler" type than the "let's throw mud so high it'll take weeks to clean up." I'm wondering if mitigating the source of the debris with mudflaps/guards on the tow vehicle wouldn't be more effective and easier to accomplish than armoring the trailer. Don't know what to say about that hunk o' wood.

[Martiangod]

I would think tread plate aluminum would be best, adhered with silicone and screws.
A thin sheet of galv won't stop a branch from going through, add flaps to the tow vehicle also.
Or, bring big bag of marshmallows, pull branch out of trailer and use to cook marshmallows over the open camp fire

[Lancie49]

I tend to do a lot of dirt roads, simply because we have a lot of dirt roads down here but this particular incident was a little unexpected.
It was only a small branch that I must've kicked up (about1 1/2" dia) but it must have been the angle it came from that did the damage. Yep, right through the outer skin.
I've got a good set of flaps on the Pajero but those TD mudguards are directly in line. I'm a signmaker and I have a product called AutoProtect that I'll be putting on the guards, after I repaint them............

I think I'll be glueing a steel sheet across the front and covering that with rubber to prevent stones and gravel bouncing back onto the tailgate of the Pajero. We get a lot of rear window breakages like that.

This is the result of the branch contact.

DSCI1098.jpg (130.96 KiB) Viewed 466 times

Nah, nail polish just aint gonna work.......................

[IndyTom]

At this point, I am thinking that Kevlar ballistic armor may be called for

Tom

[KCStudly]

Or, bring big bag of marshmallows, pull branch out of trailer and use...

As I was reading this my mind flashed to those really large marshmallows that they have come out with, and I was thinking, "Oh no, he's not going to tell us to stuff the marshmallows in the hole as some form of temporary damage control repair, is he?". LOL. But then I thought, hmm, might just work in a pinch for a little while, maybe. You know, like the plumber's bread trick?

Any way, I had a good chuckle at myself for going there in my head.