Need advice from Woody owners on the exterior finishing.

[doug hodder]

Whatever epoxy system you decide on....they all take the same steps. I think the number one thing you need to consider is just how high of a finish you would like. All the top coats for wood for finishing bright take multiple layers of material to build up and give the finish some depth. You can seal it with just a couple of coats, but if you want it nice and flat and with the type of finish like a car hood, something you can wax, takes time and coats. That's a corner that you can't cut if you want that look.

I've built several boats and a couple of woody tears all finished "bright", meaning, natural wood finish appearance. On the tears, I've never used cloth, but then I don't do the roofs on them in wood, just the side walls. Once it is coated out in epoxy, you really need to build up the finish so that it's flat and gives it some depth. All those little dimples will show when it's done if you don't do this. The top finish won't hide anything, it's all in the pre-top coat work. Whether or not that's important to you is all your decision. Typically, I do like at least 7 coats of epoxy so it's really flat...then shoot it with auto clear.

An advantage to an auto clear is that it holds up over time much better than a varnish...the downside is that it takes more equipment/ money/ time and skill to do it. You can do all the prep work and have it shot by a paint shop if you can't spray the material. Just how much time it spends outdoors will determine just how much maintenance your finish will need.

Any natural finished wood is going to take more maintenance than a painted object. Paint really cuts down on the UV problems, better than a clear. The West system "special coat" catalyst has a UV inhibitor built in, that's why it has a slight amber cast. Regardless....no epoxy finish can be left without a top coat of some sort of finish. Just how nice you want it to look is up to you and the effort you want to put into it. A lesser top coat will take more maintenance over time.

My first built tear is nearly 8 now, has changed hands 3 times, and the last time I saw it, it did need some attention to the outer maple trim on it on the lower trim, but is still a presentable tear. I've learned a lot about how to do the trim since then. They all eventually need some maintenance.

Just think of epoxy as a plastic coat that you are putting over the wood. All the edges need to be eased and all gaps filled...a sharp edge won't hold the epoxy and a gap will allow water in. Also...make sure that whatever color tint, IE stain you put on is compatible with an epoxy. I prefer the water based aniline dyes as they are really forgiving when applying, and can be mixed to your specs. Available through most woodworking sites.

Blushing is typically an indicator that you have a moisture or high humidity issue when curing. If you are doing this outdoors in the fall....yeah, it might be a problem. I can build in a garage with a wood stove so I've never had a problem with it. Watch your environmental conditions when applying. You can't put the epoxy on....then push it out on a cool damp night and not have a problem.

Not to beat a horse dead....cut a corner now...redo it later. Just my opinions, others will differ. Doug

[kookenotes]

Hey Doug - Thanks for your input. My learning curve on Epoxy has been pretty steep in the last couple weeks. I have a climate controlled garage where my TD will be finished and stored any time it is not in use. I have ordered enough RAKA epoxy for approximately six coats. I had planned to stain with Minwax gel stain but they advise the use of water based stains only. After reading Mike's comments about water based stains in the Generic Benroy plans, I am a little concerned about my ability to get a good result. I am planning to use the RAKA with UV inhibitor and then finishing it with Mon-o-War spar varnish. I will plan to re-coat every couple years.

You said in your post that you don't finish your roof in wood. What is your preferred method. I have been thinking of 1/8" Baltic Birch under .040 aluminum but no firm plan yet. This is great fun. I wish I had built it six years ago when I first retired. Thanks to you and all the others for the help. Bill

[doug hodder]

I just used a cheap luan sub roof, sealed it with epoxy, then laid on the aluminum. I didn't want a wood roof as that's what's going to take the brunt of the weather.

On the dyes...the water based anilines are a powder. You mix it up as heavy or light as you want. They also have alcohol based dyes, but I'm told that the water ones are more UV resistant than the alcohol ones. Just make sure to write your recipe down when you get one you really like. I apply them with a brush or sponge, then wipe it down with a damp cloth. The advantage is, if it's too heavy in one area...just wipe it more till it looks even. It it's not heavy enough...apply more dye. Prior to any top coating with epoxy....take some really fine...like 400 or so paper and lightly take off the little nibs of wood that were raised by the water dyes. By wiping, you can also blend areas. Just my opinion, but the gels go on a bit heavy and are harder to get an even color, but that's just me, and any oil based stain is a NO NO. Epoxy top coats don't like them. How good your top finish coat comes out is dependent on just how much prep work you did from the raw plywood up. Good luck on your build. Doug

[kookenotes]

Thanks Doug - I guess I am headed to Sherwin Williams and Woodcraft tomorrow to get a lot smarter about aniline stains. Does anyone use tempered Masonite for sub roof construction. I know that the use was pretty common on the vintage trailers years ago and it has also been used for years as a water resistant sub floor in bathrooms. I believe Class 1 tempered Masonite is produced with a linseed oil bath and should be highly resistant to the elements, especially if it were incapsulated with epoxy. Any experience or thoughts? Bill

[Jkester]

Doug,
I'm curious if you do anything to the finish after the clear coat. Have you added any wax to the finish? My finish is 4 coats of epoxy and then I sprayed 4 coats of marine varnish on the teardrop. We've been using it for a couple of months and it still looks great but I thought I would check on any extra protection to add.
Thanks,
James & Rhonda

[doug hodder]

I just waxed them maybe once a year. I always kept them clean, washed them after every trip. I never bothered to do a final sand and polish on the clear. Doug

[aggie79]

While it is not a woody teardrop, and certainly doesn't approach quality of work that Doug Hodder does, my tongue box is "woody" construction. The exterior cedar was tinted with TransTint dyes, followed by 3 coats of Raka expoxy, and the 3 coats of Emtech EM9300 urethane finish from Target Coatings. I shot the Emtech EM9300 with a cheap HVLP spray gun made by Wagner. It has held up quite well. (My teardrop is stored in the garage.)

[kookenotes]

Hey Tom - That's a really nice looking rig you have. I plan to build a similar tongue box. I purchased the RAKA epoxy and hope to get about five coats on over the next week or so. I am going to experiment with some water based stains to see if I can get the color I want on some scrap wood. I am still planning to finish it with several coats of Man-O-War spar varnish. I don't trust my abilities with a spray gun. Mine will also reside in the garage when I'm not using it. This has really been a great learning experience and I really appreciate all of the information and advice that I have gotten from everyone. I can't wait to get it finished and in use. Bill