Sidewalls Question

[BigJeff]

Hey guys! Thought I'd let you know how things are going.

We bought our HF trailer on Monday ($250) and quickly realised we needed to do a lot more research... so I have become nocturnal, scanning this godsend-of-a-website for info.

So far we have converted the trailer from folding to rigid and have moved the axle back. Matheas finished assembling the trailer today. We also cleaned and re-greased the hubs before assembling them. Additionally, we managed to drill some holes in completely the wrong place (initially, we had no idea we had to move the axle, as several teardrop projects we had looked at did not mention it)...

Anyway, we are fumbling our way along and I have learnt SO much from you guys already. (I have now become the "does research all night while he sleeps person"... whilst Matheas is the "does fun building stuff all day while she's at work person"... lucky b*stard.) Anyway, it's all so exciting that I can't sleep due to excessive TDS (Teardrop Daydreaming Syndrome - now a recognised medical condition). And I am LOVING it!!!

So, I had 2 questions for you guys. I apologize if you have already answered them at some stage, but I just can't face anymore searching at this point.

1) People seem to opt for one of two options:
a) Sidewalls sit on top of the trailer frame
OR
b) Sidewalls are bolted to the side of the trailer frame.
I would like to cover the trailer frame, because I think it looks better (especially since the excessive hole drilling) and I thought this might work:
(NB: Red is the trailer frame, blue is the bed floor and black is the sidewall. It's a cross section of one side of the of the trailer. I know it's a useless drawing, I did it on paint, but I hope you can get the idea - the sidewall is half on the trailer floor OR bed floor and cut so that the other half extends down over the trailer frame.)

OR this:

What do you think??

2) Right now, the distance between the trailer frame and the tire is already less than 2". (I seem to remember that at some point in the haze of research last night, I saw that you should have a 2" gap between the tire and the sidewall). Let's say that the distance between the tire and the sidewall is less that 2" (perhaps 1.5" or even 1")... is this a big problem?

Right, I MUST go and have a beer... My head has been spinning with all these thoughts and plans, and I begin to obsess in an unhealthy manner!! Thanks so much in advance, I do hope the drawing/explanation makes sense.

Lara

[TPMcGinty]

I saw that you should have a 2" gap between the tire and the sidewall). Let's say that the distance between the tire and the sidewall is less that 2" (perhaps 1.5" or even 1")... is this a big problem?
Lara

I hope your wrong about the 2" gap! When I'm all done mine will only have a 1" gap.

[madjack]

...an inch is enough...if you can stick your fingers to the last knuckle between the tire and sidewall, all will be OK..........

[doug hodder]

Jeff, the distance between the sidewall and the tire can vary. There is no hard number that you need to allow. You want to allow enough clearance for the tire of course, I've done them like 1" with no problem, the other issue is how the fenders are going to fit up. Depending on the style of fender, you want to allow enough clearance for any bolts so that they don't cut into the tire sidewall. A kit type fender allows for a lot of wheel travel with the bolts well out of the way. A steel fender as supplied with your frame will put the bolts closer to the tire.

It also plays in the look of how the fender fits up. Too close on the tire, puts the fender further out over the tire. I'd mock up some wood and try different things for the look you want.

I'd hang the sides over the frame for the reasons you spoke of. I just think it's a cleaner look with the frame hidden. It can be more work, but worth it in the end. Don't leave yourself wishing you did something different this early, it's a tough one to redo. Just make sure that you get the sides sealed up really well that hang down along side of the trailer frame.

Just my thoughts. Doug

[Miriam C.]

Hi Lara, If you read and print the Generic Benroy plans it calls for the cross members to be cut back 2 inches to allow for the sides to drop over without causing these issues. However if you have clearance

Now about the medical issue---there is no cure and the only treatment is to make sawdust and take lots of Don't let him have all the fun.

[BigJeff]

Thanksyou so much for the quick responses! This forum really is the best thing since sliced bread! Big relief on the tire/sidewall distance...
- Doug, thankyou for the tips about the fenders. To be honest, I hadn't really thought about them yet [we have a bit of a time limit!]... I guess now is the time.
- Miriam, yes I'm afraid my TDS is terminal. No cure. All in all it's a dismal affair! However, as far as letting him have all the fun... well Sunday and Monday I'm off work and those days I claim as MINE!!

One quick point... not to be impatient (I wasn't even expecting responses until tomorrow morning, earliest!)... but no one seems to have commented on the idea of having the side walls half sitting on the trailer frame. Are the diagrams (if can call them that) sufficiently self explanatory?

Thankyou so much once again!
Lara (not jeff!!! haha)

[doug hodder]

I'd just hang them completely outside the frame, no 1/2 thing. Now that would be making work for yourself! Doug

[bgordon]

Hi,

In my opinion your second diagram is the easiest. As a matter of fact, most caravan manufacturers around here attach their walls as in the second diagram. What they basically do is:
1. Attach the wooden floor to the frame,
2. Glue the vinyl floor to the wooden floor.
3. Attach the walls as per your second diagram.

By doing this the vinyl floor will be 'clamped' between the floor and the side wall, which means you won't have portions of your vinyl floor lifting up at the sides. And the added benefit is that the sides of your wooden floor need not be perfect, because the bottom (inside) part of the wall covers it! Quite a few advantages in my opinion.

[toypusher]

Maybe I missed it, but exactly what are you making the sidewalls out of?? Looks like solid material? Or are you making a sandwich wall? If you make a sandwich wall, you could use quarter inch skins on both sides and just hand the outside skin down over the frame.

[MrBuzz]

Hey Guys....you are missing a third option for mounting the sidewalls. On my build I wanted to use standard 4 foot panels for the floor, ceiling and roof to save materials and $$$. To do that the walls needed to be mount on top of the floor, flush with the edge of the floor.
I used the Generic Benroy plans for my sidewalls, but then cut a 3 1/4" strip off the bottom of each side. I glued & screwed the 3 1/4" strip to the frame of the floor and then fastened the side walls to that.
This makes a very strong joint. Plus there are no supports on the inside that will get in the way later. And the 3 1/4" piece ends up looking like a wide molding that covers the joint between the sidewall and the floor. This is an especially good way to build if you are doing a 4X8 TD...no waste and a minimum of materials to buy.

Here's what it looks like on paper:

Here's how it came together:

This shows how I finished the end result painting it the body color with a plastic molding on top of it that matches the silver trim on the TD:

[planovet]

I like MrBuzz's option. If you don't want to do a wood strip, use a strip of diamond plate (or similar) to trim it up.

[Jim T]

I like it too! The idea of having a matching trim color sounds neat!
Jim

[ArtMini]

I like your second option, with the side over hanging, hiding the frame, and resting on top of the floor. I think the frame being covered is better looking. This is how i hope to do it when I get started in a week or so. As I type this at 12:55am ~> severe case of TDS

Art

[Esteban]

There's a sticky illustrating various Wall attachment options...illustrated!!! showing different ways to attach walls to the floor and frame. They're really helpful to see.

[davel]

We've done over 20,000 miles with our walls completely on the outside of the frame. Gives you a full 48 inches on the inside. 1" clearance is plenty of space on the HF trailer. The thing to think about is that the top will require be slightly wider than 48" which will require you to have a little waste if you're using 4X8 material.