Puffin 2

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby shopfabricator » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:59 pm

How are you going to handle the lower front below the tongue? Last one I just notched around it and sided down to match sides. I'm not sure if I want to do that this time with aluminum. So if I wait long enough, I can steal your idea! :lol:
...materials can no longer be purchaced at quite those prices mentioned here!
User avatar
shopfabricator
Donating Member
 
Posts: 189
Images: 138
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2007 9:51 pm
Location: Mooresville, NC

Postby steve wolverton » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:03 pm

Classic Finn wrote:Steve I know that english isnt my native language and I do fairly well but now ya got me on this one. Can you kindly tell me what is meant by " fairing the sides?" :lol: :lol:

Gosh that would look sweet with polished al or stainless with the same color vinyl as what I have.. gettn ideas now. ;)


"fairing" means to sand something true. For example, if you're fairing something straight, it won't have peaks and valleys, it will be smooth. If you're fairing a hull, it will have a nice, fluid surface without imperfections. I hope that makes sense?

I'm looking forward to my next build. :thumbsup:

As for how many will fit in it, I guess that depends on how friendly they are. ;) It's built for two.

Weight should be around 650lbs. or less when complete.
Last edited by steve wolverton on Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
�veni, vidi, vici.�
User avatar
steve wolverton
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1676
Images: 11
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:39 pm
Location: Brazoria, TX

Postby steve wolverton » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:07 pm

shopfabricator wrote:How are you going to handle the lower front below the tongue? Last one I just notched around it and sided down to match sides. I'm not sure if I want to do that this time with aluminum. So if I wait long enough, I can steal your idea! :lol:


Orginally I was going to follow the 18" curve all the way around and notch for the tongue. I think I'm going to end it where it's at. I'll put a piece of aluminum trim or something on it. I'll need to put a 2x2 on the inside of the skirting to keep it from warping, and I'll lock it to the dropped floor to keep it true - similar to the bracing bars on a pickup truck's bed. Gah! Now you've got me thinking. *walks out to garage to ponder*
�veni, vidi, vici.�
User avatar
steve wolverton
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1676
Images: 11
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:39 pm
Location: Brazoria, TX
Top

Postby shopfabricator » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:14 pm

Sorry bout that! Had me in a spin for a 3 weeks. :thinking:
...materials can no longer be purchaced at quite those prices mentioned here!
User avatar
shopfabricator
Donating Member
 
Posts: 189
Images: 138
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2007 9:51 pm
Location: Mooresville, NC
Top

Postby Juneaudave » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:39 pm

Steve...which brand epoxy did you use? Is theat RAKA? Inquiring minds want to know!!!! :thinking:
User avatar
Juneaudave
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 3237
Images: 380
Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:11 pm
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Top

Postby steve wolverton » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:49 pm

Juneaudave wrote:Steve...which brand epoxy did you use? Is theat RAKA? Inquiring minds want to know!!!! :thinking:


Yup, it's RAKA. I've probably gone through 10 gallons with all my projects.
�veni, vidi, vici.�
User avatar
steve wolverton
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1676
Images: 11
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:39 pm
Location: Brazoria, TX
Top

Postby Classic Finn » Sat Dec 27, 2008 6:51 pm

steve wolverton wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:Steve I know that english isnt my native language and I do fairly well but now ya got me on this one. Can you kindly tell me what is meant by " fairing the sides?" :lol: :lol:

Gosh that would look sweet with polished al or stainless with the same color vinyl as what I have.. gettn ideas now. ;)


"fairing" means to sand something true. For example, if you're fairing something straight, it won't have peaks and valleys, it will be smooth. If you're fairing a hull, it will have a nice, fluid surface without imperfections. I hope that makes sense?

I'm looking forward to my next build. :thumbsup:

As for how many will fit in it, I guess that depends on how friendly they are. ;) It's built for two.

Weight should be around 650lbs. or less when complete.



Thank You Steve for the explanation. Another new word for the english book :lol: :lol: :thumbsup:
Royal Teardrop Society Scandinavian Bureau Chief of Staff

Image
User avatar
Classic Finn
Midnight Sun Voyager
Midnight Sun Voyager
 
Posts: 17488
Images: 146
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:29 am
Location: Country of Finland
Top

Postby Juneaudave » Sat Dec 27, 2008 7:24 pm

steve wolverton wrote:
Juneaudave wrote:Steve...which brand epoxy did you use? Is theat RAKA? Inquiring minds want to know!!!! :thinking:


Yup, it's RAKA. I've probably gone through 10 gallons with all my projects.

Thought so...I like RAKA, but I've gotten epoxy sensitve over the years and find MAS to be "rash neutral" for me. I still order fiberglass cloth from them. They do well and always have had a full 60" width cloth in stock. Can't beat them guys!!!
:thumbsup:
User avatar
Juneaudave
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 3237
Images: 380
Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:11 pm
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Top

Postby shopfabricator » Sat Dec 27, 2008 8:25 pm

Could this Golden Oldie be the next one?
Image
Aluminum Top, Painted Bottom.
...materials can no longer be purchaced at quite those prices mentioned here!
User avatar
shopfabricator
Donating Member
 
Posts: 189
Images: 138
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2007 9:51 pm
Location: Mooresville, NC
Top

Postby steve wolverton » Sat Dec 27, 2008 8:34 pm

shopfabricator wrote:Could this Golden Oldie be the next one?
Image
Aluminum Top, Painted Bottom.


Yup, that's it. :thumbsup: That's the pic where I stole the little swoop from. I think I'd do full sides of polished aluminum. A black vinyl roof would really set it off. I know what everyone says about black roofs/tears, but they look amazing.
�veni, vidi, vici.�
User avatar
steve wolverton
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1676
Images: 11
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:39 pm
Location: Brazoria, TX
Top

Postby bbarry » Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:45 pm

Steve, thanks for patiently answering question after question. Here's a few more for you:

1) Am I correct in my understanding that you are using only 1/4" ply for the walls with little to no framing besides your door frame and the shelving unit? Are you pleased with the strength of this method? I know that epoxy fillets make a crazy strong bond, but I'm just trying to wrap my mind around the use of such light material.

2) How much epoxy do you estimate you'll use in total for this build?

Brad
Brad

****************************
Jack of all trades, master of none.
****************************

Kampster build thread
User avatar
bbarry
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 360
Images: 159
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:03 am
Location: Clearwater, KS
Top

Postby steve wolverton » Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:58 pm

bbarry wrote:Steve, thanks for patiently answering question after question. Here's a few more for you:


No worries!

bbarry wrote:1) Am I correct in my understanding that you are using only 1/4" ply for the walls with little to no framing besides your door frame and the shelving unit? Are you pleased with the strength of this method? I know that epoxy fillets make a crazy strong bond, but I'm just trying to wrap my mind around the use of such light material.


It's kind of a mind blow isn't it. ;) I think many people over build their campers. There is no reason one can't use 1/4" ply for the sides/roof in their campers if it's properly braced. The door frame and storage area brace the main areas in the camper. Also, the bed is glassed to the sides, and the front storage area also beefs up the sides of the camper. The radius of the roof adds a ton of strength to the camper. The original Puffin had more than 50 camping trips + 1,000's of miles on it without any problems, and it has less curves than the new Puffin, and the new Puffin is stronger and built using 2x2 spars unlike the first Puffin which was 1x2's. I use the epoxy as the glue to keep everything together, but tying in the bulkheads and bends gives it the strength. The epoxy is used to glue the shell (sides/roof) together and it essentially is a monocoque structure.

bbarry wrote:2) How much epoxy do you estimate you'll use in total for this build?


One gallon or less. It's a small camper. The bulk of the epoxy is sealing the plywood. The fillets use less as it's mixed with fillers. I'll also do the body work with epoxy/glass bubbles. :thumbsup:
�veni, vidi, vici.�
User avatar
steve wolverton
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1676
Images: 11
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:39 pm
Location: Brazoria, TX
Top

Postby bbarry » Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:02 am

It's kind of a mind blow isn't it. I think many people over build their campers. There is no reason one can't use 1/4" ply for the sides/roof in their campers if it's properly braced. The door frame and storage area brace the main areas in the camper. Also, the bed is glassed to the sides, and the front storage area also beefs up the sides of the camper. The radius of the roof adds a ton of strength to the camper. The original Puffin had more than 50 camping trips + 1,000's of miles on it without any problems, and it has less curves than the new Puffin, and the new Puffin is stronger and built using 2x2 spars unlike the first Puffin which was 1x2's. I use the epoxy as the glue to keep everything together, but tying in the bulkheads and bends gives it the strength. The epoxy is used to glue the shell (sides/roof) together and it essentially is a monocoque structure.


If I remember correctly, on the Puffin 1, you had reinforcing strips (1x3?) running along the roof/wall joint. Have you gone without that entirely for this build?

Brad
Brad

****************************
Jack of all trades, master of none.
****************************

Kampster build thread
User avatar
bbarry
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 360
Images: 159
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:03 am
Location: Clearwater, KS
Top

Postby Trackstriper » Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:44 pm

Steve,

Back to your polished aluminum. You could get mill finish raw aluminum and polish it, which sounds like a lot of work and needs to be redone on a somewhat regular basis, or you could get anodized aluminum sheet. The anodized comes in several finishes, the satin finish looks nice and has a flat look to it, and then there is "mirror clear" anodized which you can use as a mirror when shaving.

With the mirror clear you probably won't have any maintenance outside of keeping it clean, unless you bugger it up with some chemical wash and then you're probably in deep do do. But if you don't abuse it I suppose it would stay shiny for years without a lot of work. I think that is what "Trailerworks" is using for the outer skin on their trailers. You might contact them regarding proper care and feeding of the aluminum surface.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=25814&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Not to worry about the weight...a 4x8 sheet of .040 is about 18#. In Atlanta a 4x8 sheet of mirror clear is about $140 and is also available in 4x10 if that suits your build better.

Your builds are always fascinating. Wish I had your energy!

Bruce
User avatar
Trackstriper
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 404
Images: 38
Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:05 pm
Location: Asheville, NC
Top

Postby aggie79 » Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:22 pm

Trackstriper wrote:The anodized comes in several finishes, the satin finish looks nice and has a flat look to it, and then there is "mirror clear" anodized which you can use as a mirror when shaving.


The mirror clear is what I bought from Regal Plastics in Fort Worth. I hoping there isn't too much maintenance.
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

93503
User avatar
aggie79
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 5405
Images: 686
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: Watauga, Texas
Top

PreviousNext

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests