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Posted:
Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:29 pmby AmyH
Peggy, I did fine drilling the large hole without a pilot hole first, but I kept reapplying the tap oil. The drill bit has lasted a long time doing it this way. Take it slow and be careful the bit doesn't grab and tweak your arm and wrist. I know from experience.
Happened to me when I was drilling the holes for the coupler.
Posted:
Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:37 pmby peggyearlchris
thanks guys and girls. I know about the wrist thing when it grabs look out wrist. I got home late from work so I haven't tried to drill anymore holes. thanks for everyones input.
Peg
Posted:
Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:06 pmby sdtripper2
Harbor
Freight flyer came yesterday 8/28
115 pc. Titanium Nitride coated Drill bit set Lot No. 1611
See
HF infO Here ~
http://tinyurl.com/yrvy
Lasts uP to 6 times longer
Penetrate 75% faster
$39.00 save 33% regular price $60.00 bucks
Sales lasts till September 11-2006
Posted:
Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:12 pmby mikeschn
Steve,
That could be an interesting prize for the builders here... better then blankets, eh?
Mike...
Posted:
Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:05 pmby sdtripper2
That could be an interesting prize for the builders here...
better then blankets, eh?
Mike...
yuP ~ Mike ... a very useful prize indeed, if selected.
It would sure get a work out for a build.
http://tinyurl.com/yrvy
Posted:
Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:00 pmby Nitetimes
sdtripper2 wrote:
115 pc. Titanium Nitride coated Drill bit set
Lasts uP to 6 times longer
Penetrate 75% faster
Just a quick sidenote here. They are only coated until you have to sharpen them, then they aren't any different than a decent high speed bit. You can't beat the price for that set but don't expect a lot out of them.
Posted:
Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:43 pmby Ira
The B&D titanium bit I tried to use sucked on the HF frame.
Use a cheap B&D carbide bit with oil--NO PILOT HOLES. That's a SURE wrist breaker. Buy two, and swap them out every 3 holes.
Depending on your drill, using a pilot hole makes it a lot more difficult.
For me, anyway.
Posted:
Wed Aug 30, 2006 3:53 pmby kerryd
I've never seen HF trailer,but I'm guessing it comes from china. If thats the case I'm sure theres no check on alloy . Peggys trailer might have a ton of carbon .Its like trying to drill a bed frame rail . Sometimes its a bear . Just a thought
Posted:
Wed Aug 30, 2006 4:19 pmby asianflava
kerryd wrote:I've never seen HF trailer,but I'm guessing it comes from china. If thats the case I'm sure theres no check on alloy . Peggys trailer might have a ton of carbon .Its like trying to drill a bed frame rail . Sometimes its a bear . Just a thought
Not all of them do, some come from the former Soviet Union.
Posted:
Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:41 pmby kerryd
Hey to ya asianflava , I didn't know that ! They must be melting down there subs . Soviet Union must make china look like their 100 years ahead
Posted:
Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:48 amby Toolie
Hi Folks,
I'm replacing my water lines (Quest) so I haven't been keeping up with the posts.
The best and safest way to drill holes in metal is to start with a center drill. This is a solid, high speed steel or carbide drill with short bits on both ends. It's only purpose is to start perfect holes in metal. They range from sizes #1 through #6 (6 is the largest I've seen). No. 1 is for tiny holes (1/8" or so) and #6 is for large holes(3/4" or so). Sets usually have #1 thru #5.
It won't wander off the mark and it's difficult to break. It saves your drill bits. Don't push too hard or you may end up with too much of a bevel/ chamfer around the hole edge.
You probably won't find them at big box stores. Tool suppliers like Grainger (maybe Northern) carry them. You may not want to buy these for the teardrop but they are an excellent addition to your Tool Box and especially thicker metal.
To see them check Google Images, "center drill". I'm picturely impared.