1 piece of 1/4" or 2 pieces of 1/8" to prevent spr

[Keith B]

Well, I'm going to have to rig up some sort of 12vt opening system.. Harbor Freight sells some cheap motorized winches and I have a 50:1 gear box...this could be done. I was thinking about using 4x4 Cedar Post as prop-ups...do you think that would be strong enough .
Hey, I said I was going to build a tear-drop, I didn't say I'd build it the proper way

[Miriam C.]

Well, I'm going to have to rig up some sort of 12vt opening system.. Harbor Freight sells some cheap motorized winches and I have a 50:1 gear box...this could be done. I was thinking about using 4x4 Cedar Post as prop-ups...do you think that would be strong enough .
Hey, I said I was going to build a tear-drop, I didn't say I'd build it the proper way

Ya know you can always go back and split them out some. Or you can use fewer. When I made my spars and bedframe I decided I only needed half of what I had planned. I was consistantly trying to over do.

Just remember to keep a running total weight and that will help keep your bubble oil right.

[Keith B]

Hi Miriam:...well, right now the hatch seems to fit in the hole, pretty good, of course it's clamped in...but when I set it in it wasn't to awfully heavy. Before I tear apart what seems to fit I'm going to try Danny's advise and just cover it in 1/8"..that'll keep 'er light.. If I find out it's not what I want then I'll rebuild - I have plenty of material to redo... Is your build complete? I'm getting excited and nervous at the same time... still trying to make that "Minden, NE" goal; I have got to get started on my trailer. The weather finally warmed up so maybe I'll get a jump on that this weekend.

[Miriam C.]

Oh heck I didn't know you had it put together. I can see I have been distracted by all the babe's.

Mine isn't finished. It awaits Spring and some more help getting other Peoples stuff outtta the way. It will be a couple of months yet.

There are sure going to be a bunch of new Teardrops at Minden.

[Ira]

I was thinking about using 4x4 Cedar Post as prop-ups.

I would use two laminated together for each one--plus T braces.

HAH!

Amazing how great your TD looks in this short time.



But here's that simple obligatory warning for something that a lot of us have suffered through ourselves:

The last 10% of the build takes 90% of the total build time.

So stop wasting time and quit your job now. It's the only way to get her done in the timeframe you may have in mind.

[NutmegJoe]

The last 10% of the build takes 90% of the total build time.

So stop wasting time and quit your job now. It's the only way to get her done in the timeframe you may have in mind.

Ira, I hope that's not true. I wanna go to Shasta!

[bledsoe3]

The last 10% of the build takes 90% of the total build time.

So stop wasting time and quit your job now. It's the only way to get her done in the timeframe you may have in mind.

Ira, I hope that's not true. I wanna go to Shasta!

As long as it's water tight, take it. You can finish it later. Did you see pictures of Gages first gathering with his tear?

[asianflava]

I think it merits the world's first motorized opening system. Maybe hydraulics.

Len's SlumberCoach has a motorized hatch. A remotely activated motorized hatch opener/closer. I think he used a 12V linear actuator.

The last 10% of the build takes 90% of the total build time.

So stop wasting time and quit your job now. It's the only way to get her done in the timeframe you may have in mind.

Ira, I hope that's not true. I wanna go to Shasta!

As long as it's water tight, take it. You can finish it later. Did you see pictures of Gages first gathering with his tear?

My tear wasn't finished the first TWO times I took it out. The first time I had major leaks, the monsoon we had didn't help. Yes, it was a bit disapointing but it was part of the learning process. Learning where the leaks were.

[bledsoe3]

Mine wasn't anywhere near done on my first two camp outs and I didn't have have a leak ANYWHERE.













Of course it didn't rain either.

[Keith B]

QUITTING MY JOB You know... that sounds more fun than you know.. however, I seem to spend more in a few days then I make in a few months on my "fun project"... , but I work to live, I don't live to work... The TD is coming together just wonderful... and I sooooooooooooooo believe the last 10% takes 90% of the time... as it seems to be going slower lately... The galley lid top is on (one layer of 1/8") and I dry fitted the hinge.... I think I turned out pretty good...Grant w/ Lil Bear Tag Alongs sold me the hinge.... so there's my "plug"... I thought it was worth the money.. fits good, works good, looks good, everything closes smooth, no binds, fits flush and even gaps on all sides...


More photos in my album.

[Miriam C.]

Ha! I knew you could do it. Looks great!

Now GirRdun

[madjack]

Keith...here is a reprint from a previous post of mine that seem to now be relevant at this point of your build.......

To keep the hurricane hinge from sliding...1) cut the hinge so that it is 1"
longer overall than the width of the tear...this will act a deflector to keep
rain water from running into the galley 2) on the hatch portion of the hinge,
cut it off so that it is 1/2" shorter overall than the body portion 3) drill a
hole in the body portion of the hinge barrel 1/8th" from the ends and run a
small screw down into the hole after mounting is complete...this will keep
the hinge from sliding and from leaking.... ...also a piece of 1" x 3/16(or
1/4)" closed cell weather stripping, a couple of inches long put in-between
the closed faces of the hinge will help keep water out...we have done this
and have had no issues with the hinge...

...once again...cut the hinge AT LEAST 1" longer than than the body is
wide...this will give you 1/2" overhang on both sides to act as a rain
deflector...cut the hatch side a 1/2" shorter than the body side...this will
give you room to insert a screw into the body side barrel(both sides) to
keep the hatch hinge centered and prevent it from sliding side to side....
madjack

p.s we used insert edge molding and put an insert in it and the hinge...it
should be available from your local RV dealer or online from places like
RVsurplus...

[Keith B]

Hey MadJack... thanks for the tips.. I was wondering about the sliding thing. I put a couple of "guides" inside the galley area to center it up as it gets shut but I like your idea much better. My hinge hangs over 1" on both sides (total of 2" longer than overall body) so I have plenty of room to do what you mentioned. I'm on the hunt for some weatherstrip. I've tried to get ahold of halfdome danny, but haven't seem to find him... he has some 3-4 ribbed strips that runs down the curved walls.. I really like that, almost like it's creating a couple of seals at once and any water that WOULD get in there would run down those channels and out. If anyone happens to seem him milling around I'd love to know where he got it. Thanks Madjack. Handles oughta be in later this or early next week to get it all latched down.

[Keith B]

Thanks Miriam.. you know..... it really wasn't THAT bad.. I was pretty worried, but I took my time I guess and it seems to have paid off..... now I just need to protect it and be "gentle" so I don't mess it up before it's on for good. It's a good feeling to be able to move onto the next step...which is the trailer.. a whole 'nother worry...