Undercoating the floor to frame

[madjack]

Madjack.... is that ClearShield a paint or a urethane or what?

...polyurethane...very similar to spar varnish and it drys with a VERY slight amber cast toit......

[shamrock]

Iv seen both now on there web site and i dont realy see the diferance between the 2 , I have called my local store and they have both but the spar varnish is 29$ a gallon and the Clearsheild for 15$ a quart.
Big diferance in price which I dont have a problum spending, but how far will 2 quarts go? I an going to put aluminum on the top and sides and would like to water proof the sides and roof also or an i going over kill with this?

[Podunkfla]

Iv seen both now on there web site and i dont realy see the diferance between the 2 , I have called my local store and they have both but the spar varnish is 29$ a gallon and the Clearsheild for 15$ a quart.
Big diferance in price which I dont have a problum spending, but how far will 2 quarts go? I an going to put aluminum on the top and sides and would like to water proof the sides and roof also or an i going over kill with this?

Shamrock... maybe this info will help:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/varnish.htm

The gist of it is... any good "long oil" varnish is prolly the best to use over wood that is going to be outdoors. Polyurethanes usually do not stand up to UV exposure as well as conventional "spar varnish" (a generic name for varnishes origionally designed for marine use). As an undercoat, it prolly doesn't matter much. A long oil varnish is softer and stays more flexible... a good thing over wood that by it's nature expands and contracts. The gooey black stuff? Overkill and somewhat ugly... in my humble opinion... but it is cheap.

[shamrock]

SO your thoughts on this is the spar urathane isnt that good to use ?

[Podunkfla]

SO your thoughts on this is the spar urathane isnt that good to use ?

I tend to stay with marine type varnishes for outdoor stuff. There may very well be a "spar urethane" that will hold up well outdoors? I am just not familiar with it. I do like some of the urethane adhesives like PL Urethane... It is fantastic stuff. There does seem to be a difference in products marketed as "polyurethane" and those sold as "urethane"? I'm not sure why the manufacturers do this... It is confusing enough without their odd way of labeling things.

I think this article does explain the differences better than I can:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/varnish.htm

[shamrock]

Madjack...Do use the Clearshield for the interior and exterior and under the floor of the teardrops?

[Arne]

basically, if you using roofing tar, as I did. Even after 3 weeks it will still take a fingerprint... we flipped it over this a.m.... I suspect, the tar will conform to the frame and pretty much form a gasket between floor and frame.

On inside of the frame, I will probably use some spray undercoating to seal it... on the outside, some type of sealant to keep the rain from running between, but I doubt much will get in there, anyway....

[madjack]

Madjack...Do use the Clearshield for the interior and exterior and under the floor of the teardrops?

Sham, we used the ClearShield on the bottom and any places that are exposed to the environment...on the interior and the parts covered by AL(for additional sealage), we used MinWax Polycryllic, an indoor, water based, optically clear poly...
madjack

[Miriam C.]

I used the Gardeners on mine in 100 degree heat. Put two coats on, waited a day and flipped it. It is stuck fast to the frame.