How the heck do you guys bend plywood?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby swissarmygirl » Sun Oct 07, 2007 10:12 am

I used 1/4 inch ply on mine and didn't have much of a problem. Just worked it bit by bit and it turned out just fine. No special tricks, just some muscle and some patience.
"Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it." - Mark Twain
"The intuitive mind is a sacred gift and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." - Albert Einstein

4 Hats Studio
User avatar
swissarmygirl
Donating Member
 
Posts: 25906
Images: 129
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 6:52 am
Location: New Jersey

Postby GPW » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:21 am

A quick Google of wood bending techniques produces a plethora of bending methods...
One sure way is to just attach the ply at the high point of the bend and weight it around the curve,a little bit at a time Given enough time , the ply will assume the new shape naturally without breaking ... don't be in a rush...
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14920
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans

Postby Canuck » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:06 am

I used Luan Plywood
Oak on the inside
and mahogany on the outside
It is very easy to use and bend
User avatar
Canuck
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 42
Images: 2
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:29 am
Location: Ontario Canada
Top

Postby Steve Frederick » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:45 am

If the roof is left "wood" then 2 layers of 1/8" first nailed in place, second glued to the first. (No exposed fasteners. If you were painting, just one layer, nailed..Fill the nail holes, seal, paint. For an aluminum roof, one layer, nailed, metal glued to it.
Blessings, Steve
Adirondacks, Upstate New York
Building Journals
The Shop Manual's 8-years old!! Thank's everyone!
New! 'Rondack Lodge Plans!Order Here!
Image
User avatar
Steve Frederick
Custom Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 1984
Images: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:02 pm
Location: Upstate New York, Adirondacks (Great Sacandaga Lake)
Top

bending plywood

Postby J.T. » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:31 pm

So, when you bend plywod over the front do you cut the sheet in half making two 4x4 sheets? or do you lay it over the front and top using one whole sheet? and if you do use the whole sheet at one time what kind of plywood do you use? I've seen pros and cons about useing luan. I've also seen good reports about useing birch.
I'm having trouble finding Baltic birch in the Houston area, although I did find some the other day from a salvager for $7.50 a sheet. Bought 5/8"" birch for $20 a sheeet.
I'm wondering if a chat room would be good for exchangeing information and such. Oh well, just my $.02 worth
OOOOOOPs, just emailed a guy on Cregslist in houston about some 1/8 inch luan for $3. a sheet. Anyone have any ideas about that?
J.T.
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:23 am
Location: Dayton,Texas
Top

Postby madprinter » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:10 pm

I've made curved window casings and arched door openings with flexable plywood. I don't remember the brand name. It comes in 4x8 by1/4"sheets. It is like Luan, but all the plys of wood run in the same grain direction and have a canvas layer glued in the middle. I used two layers on my arches. You can roll it up. I have some left over. I'll try to get a pic on to show you how tight it can be rolled.
User avatar
madprinter
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 332
Images: 26
Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:28 pm
Location: West Monroe Louisiana
Top

Postby Juneaudave » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:42 pm

Will a brad nailer work on 1/8 ply, gentle to moderate bend? :baby:
User avatar
Juneaudave
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 3237
Images: 380
Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:11 pm
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Top

Postby Nitetimes » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:53 pm

Juneaudave wrote:Will a brad nailer work on 1/8 ply, gentle to moderate bend? :baby:


I would use a air stapler, I've had brads pull thru 1/8" but staples will hold pretty good.
Rich


Image
ImageImage
-
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to
keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves
against tyranny in government.
- Thomas Jefferson -
Personally, I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take a butt kickin'.
User avatar
Nitetimes
7000 Club
7000 Club
 
Posts: 7909
Images: 194
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:44 am
Location: Butler,PA
Top

Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:59 pm

I'm using two layeres of 1/8" on the exterior with the grain on the outer surfaces running from sise to side... Should be a piece of cake.
However... I used one layer of 1/8" maple on my interior... 1/2 sheet on the hatch and a full sheet in the cabin.
I wanted the exposed grain to run lengthwise on the interior and it was a fight, but I took my time by going one spar at a time, glueing each spar as I approached the front of the trailer.
I did have a wormhole on the backside of the plywood, which ran sideways go BANG!!!
Luckily, the skin on the interior side of the cabin didn't go BANG too, right where the worm hole was, but it did develop a small facet at that point.
I was able to insert aditional blocking in the spar area and temporary interior blocking inside the cabin to make the 1/2" long facet disapear. :thumbsup:
I only used glue and relied on the length of the maple plywood to lock the ceiling to the spars and spar blocking along the walls.
User avatar
Dean in Eureka, CA
The Fogcrawler
 
Posts: 4997
Images: 69
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 8:44 pm
Top

Postby tonyj » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:13 am

So you decided to be there, but not square?

I'm with the "bend it on the short side" group. You end up using more sheets, but that scrap ply always seems to find a place to be used. I also used a stapler instead of a brad nailer. The 1/8 ply pulls right though a brad, but is held tight with a staple. I used 2 layers of 1/8 on my trailer.
Still graced with two eyes and ten fingers (due in no small part to luck!).

Just when you think a problem is solved, an uglier result replaces it.

tony
User avatar
tonyj
Super Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 2468
Images: 160
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:18 pm
Location: Texas, Corpus Christi
Top

Postby Gage » Fri Feb 22, 2008 2:10 am

Well, when I get ready to do my interior roof skin. I'm going to take a sheet of 1/8" birch and trim the sides down to fit inside. Then I'm going to clamp it down in front and form it to the rear. I can not have seams because there are no front cabinets and 4' won't get it. I just may add some steam to it and pre roll it and let it sit for a day or two before installing it. :thinking:
Image Image Image
Remember 'Teardrop Time'.......Take your time, you don't have to have it finished NOW.
User avatar
Gage
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8321
Images: 28
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:14 pm
Location: Palmdale, CA
Top

Postby madjack » Fri Feb 22, 2008 2:26 am

...well it is my understanding, if you take a BigJohnsonStrecher and twist out the lower nut, you can bend with it as well as strech :o :shock: :? ;) ;) ;)
madjack 8)

p.s. at least, that is what Peter Long and Carla Roundheels told me..afterall, they are the inventor and marketer for the BigJohnson and SHOULD know... ;) .......................... 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Q re 1/8" ply...

Postby pELF28p » Fri Feb 22, 2008 7:56 am

What do you guys use to fasten the 1/8" ply? Do you only use glue? If you use screws (and glue) how do you set the screws into the 1/8" ply for a smooth finish? It seems 1/8" is very thin to be setting screws into.
-J
pELF28p
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 27
Images: 4
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:15 pm
Top

Re: Q re 1/8" ply...

Postby Miriam C. » Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:32 am

pELF28p wrote:What do you guys use to fasten the 1/8" ply? Do you only use glue? If you use screws (and glue) how do you set the screws into the 1/8" ply for a smooth finish? It seems 1/8" is very thin to be setting screws into.
-J


You can't really set the screws in 1/8" ply. They will draw themselves down but if you are not going straight they leave part of the screw up. You can sand after the glue drys or back them out and fill with Epoxy.

I used screws on 1/8" Birch with the bend on the width and glued all the spars and insulation. My ply went under the 12" radius so bending was easier.

For the inside, I preplanned to use Steve Frederick's method. My inside framing is a shelf for the ceiling then spars and roof to lay on. Didn't have much trouble with it.
“Forgiveness means giving up all hope for a better past.â€
User avatar
Miriam C.
our Aunti M
 
Posts: 19675
Images: 148
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:14 pm
Location: Southwest MO
Top

Bending plywood

Postby tearbum67 » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:14 pm

This is how I did my interior. I used a car jack that I braced against the galley end of the cabin and placed a 2x4 "T" on the jack with the "T" end against my plywood. Once I got it snug I just carefully turned the jack screw a turn or two every 10 or 15 minutes. It will scare the heck out of ya but I had no cracking at all.ImageImage
If it dont fit, Force it!
User avatar
tearbum67
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 55
Images: 36
Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:22 am
Location: N.E. Pa
Top

PreviousNext

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests