Best way to bend luan without cracking it????

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Postby dboyd » Sun Mar 20, 2005 7:29 pm

is 1/8" paneling a decent choice for the top? I was planning on using fiberglass epoxy and cloth on the top and sides. my sides are made of pine framing with 1/4" luan on the inside and outside. I just need to know if any one else has only used 1/8" luan by itself for the top. Should I use two layers of 1/8" for a total of 1/4"? I just want this thing to be strong and last for years to come. Don :thinking:
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Postby mikeschn » Sun Mar 20, 2005 7:38 pm

I don't think 1/8" is strong enough. Just imagine a piece of gravel hitting your skin at 70 mph.

No, if you want your tear to last a long time, as you do, I would make it 2 layers of 1/8" skin. ;)

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bending luan

Postby David Beckett » Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:22 pm

So what would you all say about 5/32 luan? Two layers or one? Mine will be one layer with 1" foam, and interior layer of 5/32.

I haven't done it yet so help me out if you think I need more.
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Postby len19070 » Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:46 pm

I always use a sheet of 1/8" plywood for the sheathing. But I always use 50 gage Aluminum as the skin. If somethings going to pierce the Aluminum..its going to pierce 1/4" material as well. I also run ribs across the lower front every 8" untill I get to the roof area, then every 12"(till the vent area). I have seen 1/4" brake while secured to the trailer all on its own, even after steam/soaking. Thats not to say its going to happen EVERY time and I'm sure there are hundreds of trailers out there with 1/4" plywood that are fine and will remain fine for years to come. But I saw it happen once and I'm still in "Shell Shock" from it. In my opinion, If you want to make it stronger I would go with the double 1/8".

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Postby dboyd » Sun Mar 20, 2005 9:47 pm

The only thing I can find in my area is wall paneling. I thought I would use two layers of it for my roof. I thought I could use a good quality construction adhesive to bond these sheets(F26 or liquid nails).I would install one layer and later bond and install the other layer. Then I would use fiberglass cloth and epoxy the entire body. Does this sound like it would be a good way to make my top. Don :)
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Postby David Grason » Sun Mar 20, 2005 10:38 pm

To me it sounds like it will work well.

I debated whether or not I should talk about some of the problems I had getting my sheet to bend but in the end, I decided I would share this info.

I broke 3 sheets trying to make the bend. I can't remember the last time I've ruined this much expensive wood but I had to learn.

The first sheet I had going pretty good. I was working it slowly, little by little and I almost had it when ....SNAP!, it broke.

So I tried it again and this time the 2nd sheet didn't even get as far as the first before it too snapped.

So I got wise and boiled several gallons of water and did the hot water thing. The particular wood that I'm using is called Lyptus. I found out that it does NOT like water. It turned this amazing black color but I kept working with it because I figured it would lighten up when it dried. It never did. But the sheet did become considerably more pliable. I put construction adhesive on the cross members, had my air stapler at the ready. I was pushing the sheet up against the cross members with my left hand and getting the stapler in position with the right hand when all of a sudden, my left hand went straight through the wood........ 3rd sheet ruined. My recommendation is to NOT try hot water unless you're using a marine plywood or at least an exterior grade that has a water proof glue holding the laminations together. By the time I pulled my 3rd sheet out and cleaned off the construction adhesive, the plywood was delaminating something terrible.

They say that the 3rd time is a charm but for this project the 4th time proved to be the winner.

I set the blade height on my table saw at what I reckoned to be half the thickness of the sheet. The sheet was ¼" so half that. Then I moved the guide fence out to ¼ less than the full width of my sheet and cut a kerf on the backside. After that I made repitive cuts moving the guide fence in toward the blade in ¼" increments. It was tedious work and my wife provided a very badly needed extra pair of hands, but having those kerfs gave me the ability to bend the wood around and it worked like a charm. Here are the photos to prove it:

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Here's what it looks like on the inside:

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Postby dboyd » Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:06 am

I added more ribs this morning and now on my front they are about 7" apart. I'm sure the extra support can't hurt. I have the set them even closer on the curves. I have it in my mind that I only want to built this trailer once and do it right the first time(I hope!). thanks everyone for the support!!! Don :)Image
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Bendable Plywood

Postby rdprice » Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:53 pm

I successfully installed the interior lid skin on my Kuffle Creek Cubby after two tries. My first attempt was with 1/4" luan. It was almost in place when it broke. :( For my second attempt I switched to 3/8" bendable plywood and it worked great.:) It was a little pricey, but easy to find - every lumber yard in my area stocks it. Bendable plywood is made so the grain of all the plys is oriented in the same direction - making it very bendable in one direction but not in the other.
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Postby dboyd » Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:34 pm

I called my local lumber store and I think that they thought I was a little off. They had never heard of bendable plywood. Do you have a brand name or a product name for this plywood? did you buy it a one of the big lumber suppliers? when you say it was pricey can you give a dollar figure?thanks for the help. Don :)
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Postby Nitetimes » Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:42 pm

dboyd wrote:I called my local lumber store and I think that they thought I was a little off. They had never heard of bendable plywood. Do you have a brand name or a product name for this plywood? did you buy it a one of the big lumber suppliers? when you say it was pricey can you give a dollar figure?thanks for the help. Don :)


I'd like to know that also, because I have never heard of such a thing. I always thought bendable plywood was stuff that had been left outside too long, otherwise known as permanently bent to an odd unusable shape.
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Bendable Plywood

Postby rdprice » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:33 pm

dboyd wrote:I called my local lumber store and I think that they thought I was a little off. They had never heard of bendable plywood. Do you have a brand name or a product name for this plywood? did you buy it a one of the big lumber suppliers? when you say it was pricey can you give a dollar figure?thanks for the help. Don :)


Sorry I don't have a brand name; however, I have also seen bendable plywood referred to as bendable luan, wavy board and noodle board. I attempted to find it in 1/8" thickness but was unable to do in my local area (north Alabama). I checked several lumber yards, and at least three stocked bendable plywood in 3/8" thickness (84 Lumber was one). I paid $38 (including tax) for one 4'x8' sheet at Huntsville Lumber. You will not find this product at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. :thumbsup:
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Postby TomS » Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:25 pm

I have an online source for flexible plywoods, Boutler Plywood. Click on the link for flexible plywoods. They carry 1/8" and 1/4" "Bending Birch" as well as a 3/8 luan called "Wacky Wood".

Try asking for Wacky Wood at Lowe's. They'll think you've been smokin' the wacky weed. :lol:

Boulter Plywood is located in Somerville, MA, about an hour East of where I live. I plan on buying the plywood for my interior skins and roof from them.

BTW -- Dave, nice creative soloution scoring the 1/4" ply.
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Postby Geron » Mon Mar 21, 2005 6:22 pm

Another bendable plywood source and explanation of how it's bendable.

http://www.hardwoodweb.com/

http://www.hardwoodweb.com/pdf/catalogu ... eneers.pdf

Don't know if that second url will work.

All you wanted to know about plywood, veneers and a whole lot more!! :?
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Luan without cracking

Postby David Beckett » Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:53 pm

I'd like to take Dave's idea of kerfing the luan and modify it. Do you think it would work to score it with a knife or cutter of some kind? Might just be easier than using a circular saw. I guess best way is to try it.
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Postby subtearanean » Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:16 am

For intensive kerfing it may be easier to use a router with a 1/8" straight bit? Set up a jig (like a "T"), clamp the jig, rout on both edges of the jig, slide jig needed spacing, rout again, etc. etc. Eventually you'll come to the lower routed area, slide the jig down to a "fresh" space. Repeat.

Sounds like it would be easier than trying to manhandle a 4X8 or 4X10 piece of plywood on a table saw for that many repetitive cuts.
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