Auto undercoating on a tear?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby TinKicker » Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:24 pm

One thing that may help the abrasion-resistance of the spray-on undercoating is an overcoat of regular old spray paint. Don't get me into the chemical compatibility side of the equation...I'm not a body repair guy and I'm certainly not a chemist. I was just a kid with no money when I tried this on an old Beetle of mine around 1990 with an overcoat of gloss black enamel spray paint.
To do it right you'd want to let the undercoat completely cure (however long that would take) and then take a painter's advice and use the correct type of paint. Whether enamel is the right kind, I don't really know. It just worked for me (especially for .97¢ a can), but some sort of urethane spray would (to my mind) be more durable and pliable.
I felt like the paint gave an overall sealant effect to the job, and kind of unified the surface...uniformly. :roll:
Besides which, you can make the undercoating any color you want that way! :D
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Postby Jst83 » Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:04 am

:thinking: Undercoat, you're supposed to undercoat.
I didn't and have 2 years and close to 3,000 miles on it. I've thought about doing it but not gotten around to it yet. So far I've had 0 problems and 0 leaks through the floor.
I think what ever you choose will only be an improvement. Go with what you can afford and you'll be OK
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Postby bbarry » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:27 am

TinKicker - I'll consider that...I certainly don't think it could hurt.

Jst83 - In reality, you're right. Good quality exterior grade wood will last a long time, especially when shielded from the elements like the bottom side of a tear. The trailer frame I'm building on had a sheet of exterior plywood as a deck and had been sitting outside for 10 years. The only soft spots were around the edges...the center was still solid and showed no signs of delamination.
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Postby TinKicker » Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:41 am

I agree with Scott because there is an AMAZING variety of weather-resistant ply out there that would last as long as you need it. Undercoating comes in for those folks like me who get ten miles from home and wonder if they left the stove on. It's just a little added insurance against rot but mostly peace of mind for me. And with camping, that's what I'm after...a clear, peaceful mind. :relaxing:

Having messed around with old cars for so long, undercoating became to me a necessity for a few reasons: 1) anti-corrosion 2) anti-vibration 3) anti-noise 4) some limited insulation value.

With a tear you can possible need it for #1, depending on your type of wood.

You can definitely get a benefit from #2. Nobody likes fasteners that vibrate loose--again, not probable, but possible. I know that an undercoated car feels more solid than an UN-undercoated car.

#3 wasn't so obvious to me until I realized that the majority of sound coming from my laptop's speakers (which are in the BOTTOM of the thing!) reached my ears by bouncing off whatever surface the laptop was sitting on. Scenario: You're trying to get to sleep in the state park campground and your "good" neighbor has the stereo up too loud. The music hits you through your walls AND bounces off the ground to come through the floor. Don't believe it? Ever put your ear to the ground to see if the posse was a-comin'? :lol:
Of course, I hope you're not concerned with road noise in the tear...riding in there is probably NOT a good idea! :vroom: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

#4 is dubious, but every little bit of thickness underneath on a cold morning sure couldn't hurt. :snowstorm:

One factor which I didn't think of (because here in the South we don't have to) is road salt corrosion on the metal pieces (frame, axle, road box, etc.). After reviewing back through Arne's post, I realized that might be something he (and others) deal with. OK, I'm SURE they have to deal with it. I'd think too that road salt stuck to your plywood wouldn't be too attractive either, and the undercoating would give you a nice barrier all the way around.
Another reason to think about the salt (do they salt the roads in Kansas?) is because you might just get a wild hair to travel to a salty state some cold winter month. I've been known to do crazier things. One less thing to ever, ever, ever worry about (translation--no intrusion on the teardrop state of mind). :crazy: :tipsy: :? :P :campfire: :woohoo: :beautiful:

Don't sweat it though...build the tear and see how you like it without undercoating. You can always upgrade to it anytime.
Peace.
Kelsey
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Go ahead and get your project started because it's just like having kids...if you wait to start until you're skilled enough or rich enough, you'll never do it. And just look at what you'd miss!
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In planning any project you've never attempted before, always allow for the three three's: It will take you three times longer, three times more material, and three times more money than you thought.
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Postby Arne » Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:52 am

""Undercoat, you're supposed to undercoat.
I didn't and have 2 years and close to 3,000 miles on it. I've thought about doing it but not gotten around to it yet. So far I've had 0 problems and 0 leaks through the floor.
I think what ever you choose will only be an improvement. Go with what you can afford and you'll be OK""

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I agree... as per my previous post(s)... nothing really important happens under the tear... but it should get a single coat (or two) of something for basic protection.
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Postby Eddielbs » Tue Jan 06, 2009 12:19 pm

I used an under coating on my build and it has been holding really well..

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