What to give up? I need it REALLY lightweight.

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby asianflava » Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:40 pm

This is my stick built frame
Image

It is just 1X2s (actually 3/4" thick) and rigid insulation. I epoxied 1/8" luan to both sides. When it was finished the wall weighed 57lbs. This is 10' long so a cubby should be even lighter. My guestimates is that sandwich construction is 25-30% lighter than 3/4in plywood. All the framing is so that the galley shelves will have something solid to screw into.
Last edited by asianflava on Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:41 pm

I'm building a couple walls for Bev this summer. I'll do some weight comparisons as I go...

If I had to venture a guess, those 36# walls would have weighed 49# with insulation and inside skins.

A sheet of 4x10x3/4" plywood might weigh almost 94#. Every pound helps.

Mike...

SteveH wrote:Mike,

The picture of the wall that weighs 36 pounds is not complete. It does not include the insulation or the inner skin. Have you ever weighed a simular wall with all included? Granted, the insulation would not weigh much, but some, and so would the inner skin. Just curious about what the complete wall would weigh. :thinking:


P.S. The reason I never weighed the completed wall, is because it was never completed. I switched gears and moved on the the Lil Diner. Frank is finishing up the Weekender...

Image
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI

Postby TomS » Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:29 pm

exminnesotaboy wrote:
mikeschn wrote:The nuts included with the trailer are nylock nuts.

Some people will chip in here and say that you can use locktite... yes you can.


my 1800lb HF didn't come with nylock nuts :( I wished it would have.

I did use 242 Med strength locktite on the supplied galvanized bolts. On any additional bolts I had to furnish for for the frame changes, I did go with stainless with nylock nuts


My 5x8 Red Trailer came with Nylox nuts. I plan to begin assemble it outdoors tomorrow, weather permitting.

Also, about the rusting cosmetic issue, I'm painting the entire frame black with Krylon enamel spray paint once I have it assembled. That should prevent surface rust on my bolts.
Tom Swenson
[email protected]
User avatar
TomS
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1367
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:06 pm
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:36 pm

TomS wrote:My 5x8 Red Trailer came with Nylox nuts. I plan to begin assemble it outdoors tomorrow, weather permitting.


Hey Tom,

I wrote to red trailer asking whta the b.c. on the hub was, and he wrote back saying it was 4 bolts. I tried again to get the bolt circle but it was ignored... Do you happen to know what the bolt circle is on your wheels?

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby lmh222 » Thu Apr 07, 2005 6:59 pm

Just a random thought - what do you guys think about an idea of taking a 3/4 piece of plywood but then cutting out HUGE holes so that it would look very similar to asianflava's stick frame. Then, glue 1/8" to both sides (with foam insulation in the holes). It might weigh a little bit more but it would be one solid piece so it might be a little more rigid and sturdy. Lots of waste but maybe I could find something else to do with the extra pieces... :thinking:

With all of the curves on a tear, it seems like it would be WAY less time consuming to just cut the holes out of the 3/4" piece rather than to tracing and cutting curves on a whole bunch of smaller pine boards. It seems like it would be much easier for framing the door and window too.

Any thoughts on that option? Do you think that it would weigh a ton even if I did cut it down to the same volume as if it were stick framed?


Bev, that galley looks great! I might even just do a countertop with open space under it. I think that it will primarily be for the cooler and a place to set the stove.

IraRat, I had also assumed that stainless nylock nuts would be very easy to find. I guess I'll have to research that more.

Lindsey
The difference between being involved and being commited is like eggs and bacon - the chicken was involved but the pig was commited.

http://www.teardrop.myphotoalbum.com
User avatar
lmh222
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 67
Images: 8
Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:25 pm
Location: Vermont
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:21 pm

Yes, starting with a plywood stick wall is an option. I think it's more expensive than just using regular sticks. Also plywood is 1/32" undersized, so that could play havoc with you if you want to install polystyrene insulation in your walls.

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby toypusher » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:26 pm

If you are going to use plywood for the entire wall thickness (without skins) then you might want to try the foil-bubble-foil type of insulation. It is only 1/4" thick and can be stapled in place. You can also cut it with normal scissors. It's supposed to have as good or better R values than the rigid stuff.

Just my opinion. Cheers! :beer:

Kerry
User avatar
toypusher
Site Admin
 
Posts: 43040
Images: 324
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 12:21 pm
Location: York, PA Area
Top

Postby TomS » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:29 pm

mikeschn wrote:
TomS wrote:My 5x8 Red Trailer came with Nylox nuts. I plan to begin assemble it outdoors tomorrow, weather permitting.


Hey Tom,

I wrote to red trailer asking whta the b.c. on the hub was, and he wrote back saying it was 4 bolts. I tried again to get the bolt circle but it was ignored... Do you happen to know what the bolt circle is on your wheels?

Mike...


Hi Mike,

I just measured it. It's 4".
Tom Swenson
[email protected]
User avatar
TomS
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1367
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:06 pm
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:34 pm

Hmmmm that doesn't give us many wheels to choose from...

Here's what I see in the way of choices...

4 on 4 (101.6 mm)
Austin-Healey Sprite
Crosley - all '39-'52
MG Midget
Jensen Healey
Opel Manta, Kadette, GT
GM L-body
Buick Skyhawk '75-'81
Chevrolet Vega, Monza '71-'81
Pontiac Sunbird, Astre '76-'81
Oldsmobile Starfire '75-'81

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby TomS » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:39 pm

I suppose we could always swap out the hubs for ones with a larger bolt circle.
Tom Swenson
[email protected]
User avatar
TomS
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1367
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:06 pm
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:41 pm

Any idea where to get the hubs? What's the spindle size?

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby asianflava » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:47 pm

lmh222 wrote:Just a random thought - what do you guys think about an idea of taking a 3/4 piece of plywood but then cutting out HUGE holes so that it would look very similar to asianflava's stick frame. Then, glue 1/8" to both sides (with foam insulation in the holes).
Lindsey


Someone in the hall of fame built like this, I can't remember who though.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:58 pm

asianflava wrote:Someone in the hall of fame built like this, I can't remember who though.


If you remember who that was, I'd like to know too!

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby TomS » Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:07 pm

Mike,

I'm not sure where the spindle diameter is measured. The spindle looks like this.


Image

I got these readings using my "Po' Boy" calipers (an adjustable wrench and a tape measure).
Tom Swenson
[email protected]
User avatar
TomS
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1367
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:06 pm
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Top

Postby JunkMan » Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:10 pm

mikeschn wrote:Here's what I see in the way of choices...
Chevrolet Vega, Monza '71-'81


There ought to be plenty of these in the bone yards :lol:

I had a 74 Vega for a very short time, it was the biggest piece of junk that I ever owned.
Jeff & Odie
Black Hills of South Dakota
User avatar
JunkMan
500 Club
 
Posts: 974
Images: 50
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 6:21 pm
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
Top

PreviousNext

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests