Cutting large holes in Formica countertops

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby S. Heisley » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:57 am

Thanks again, everybody! :D

Scoring the laminate along the cutting line sounds like a good idea and probably couldn't hurt. Putting the edge trim on first is an interesting approach, too. A practice piece on scrap-able leftovers might be very wise.

Also, even though I hate using my time and money on shopping for routers/laminate trimmer bits, etc. (especially at Christmas time :roll: ), I may go and see what I can find.
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Postby Lawnjockey » Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:38 am

The masking tape has nothing to do with the spinning bit, it is to prevent scratching as you slide the base of the jig saw on the formica. A router is not needed for a sink cut out since the lip of the sink covers the cut. A router is used if you are installing formica on the ends but even that can be done with a sanding block or just using wood trim. I am assuming the stove is a drop in and no end trim is needed for it.

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Postby Lou Park » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:47 pm

S. Heisley wrote:Thanks again, everybody! :D



Also, even though I hate using my time and money on shopping for routers/laminate trimmer bits, etc. (especially at Christmas time :roll: ), I may go and see what I can find.


Christmas is coming, it doesn't hurt to put it on your list.
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Postby S. Heisley » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:08 pm

Lawnjockey wrote:
The masking tape has nothing to do with the spinning bit, it is to prevent scratching as you slide the base of the jig saw on the formica. A router is not needed for a sink cut out since the lip of the sink covers the cut. A router is used if you are installing formica on the ends but even that can be done with a sanding block or just using wood trim. I am assuming the stove is a drop in and no end trim is needed for it.


...Okay, Put masking tape on the bottom of the jigsaw plate to protect the formica from scratches. Yes, both are drop-ins. Thanks. :thumbsup:

I'm going to play with a scrap piece when the Wilsonart comes and see what I can do. If I'm going to make errors, I'd rather find out on something that doesn't matter.

As an aside, earlier, a couple people commented that sinks and stoves come with templates. Neither RV stove or sink came with templates. RV stuff tends to be user-LESS-friendly. :lol: That's why I made my own "template" out of Styrofoam and fitted the stove and sink into that and, yes, the Styrofoam held both without buckling but I did raise and brace it on the ends and in the center with wood scraps for that test, just in case.
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Postby Kevin A » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:52 pm

S. Heisley wrote:...Okay, Put masking tape on the bottom of the jigsaw plate to protect the formica from scratches. Yes, both are drop-ins. Thanks. :thumbsup:


You'll still want tape on the surface of the formica to avoid having debris scratch the surface when the saw is slid across it.
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Postby Gage » Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:50 pm

I know, it's not Formica but just to show an example. The tape is for protection of the surface you are cutting. I have tried tapping the cutting tool but find that it gums up with torn tape and then still marks what I'm cutting. Where as the tape on the cutting surface just acts as protection surface for what you are cutting.

Strictly an example pic.

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Postby Lawnjockey » Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:17 am

My experience has been similar to Gages. Doing a cutout isn't a big deal, keep it simple.

For formica I really can't see why someone would use a router on a surface that is going to be hidden by the lip of the firture. A router is much harder to control than a jig saw. A router is more dangerous to the work and the user. A cut by a router is only as good as the jig being used. If you must use a router make sure yo drape the cord over your shoulder so as to keep it clear of the work and other obstructions.

As for scoring formica I have never done this. Formica is a hard surface and when scoring with a utility knife the harder the surface the harder more pressure is required on the knife. The more pressure the more likely an over run is. It is a risk reward thing, at some point the potential harm out weighs the protection. On the other hand scoring softer surfaces makes a lot of sense. For example I would never cut a softer painted surface without scoring it first. Scoring a curved cut on plywood is tricky becausebthe grain wants to send you its own way.

Thinking about these simple things is why the thinking chair is probably the most important shop tool.

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Postby S. Heisley » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:40 am

Wow! I have gotten some really good information and help from all of you! Thanks once again to you all! This turned out to be a really good thread.
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Postby doug hodder » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:54 am

Sharon...I cut in my sink this last weekend and like you, no template. Turn your sink upside down, lay a couple of straight edges against the inner flange underneath, measure the distance between them, then do it 90 degrees for the other dimension. That's your hole size. Should drop in perfectly. Doug
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Postby S. Heisley » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:08 am

Thanks, Doug. I was just looking at your countertop in your Nomad build thread and thinking about the way you did it as you were sending me a message here! It would be hard to beat Teardrop Master Builder Extraordinaire Doug Hodder's building skills! :thumbsup:
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