Customizing A Winter Warrior/ 01/09/2010 Got a profile!

[starleen2]

So as not to beat the proverbial horse – is 6-4 the max height or the height when you first get out of the bed. From the drawing I’m confused. If 6’4 is the max height, is it at the peak? – if it is not then why have a peak at all? I’m 6 ft tall and do not notice the curve at all in the LB. You could get a cleaner design and a greater height (ie“throwâ€

[rxc463]

Scott: I'm looking to get that 6'-4" stretch right when I get out of bed. I hope to have a floor plan and some sketches posted sometime this week. Thanks for all the attention, I'm sure to need more till this is done!

[rxc463]

DUH! I think it just sank in as to what you were trying to tell me! Move the hinge point forward lengthening the arc and getting a somewhat better rise at that point without the air dam. I may be able to get that with two angles in the hatch and still keep the squared off look that I want.

Told you I gotta get smacked more than once for this stuff to sink in

[rxc463]

On the suggestions of Scott and Ageless I did a bit of fiddling with the profile and came up with this. I'm no good with CAD so I'm going to do some cardboard aided design to work out the dimensions and details. I think this is a pretty good compromise to aerodynamics and my original concept.

As long as I can work out the details for the back wall and door, I'm liking this one pretty well. I'm not real thrilled about having to layout the ellipses for framing, but I guess I'll manage. Looks like I should be able to get all the headroom I originally wanted.



Looking for some feedback, so fire away.

[starleen2]

I don’t know how strong you are – but I had originally had a inside height of 6’0 for the Ladybug WW, But the weight of the hatch was the reason why I shaved it down a bit – so think light or develop a lift system. Perhaps on the lower portion you could save some ellipse work by using a diagonal line from the from to the rear on the lower section of the hatch side wall. To get the geometry just right – I did the same thing with the plywood: lay it out on the floor, cut a little larger than needed, then rotate it to check for problems and required height. One thing to watch for is the offset of the main hinge. I would suggest a three to four inches offset so you won’t have the Gap at the top of the hinge area (thank Mike and Gary for this one!)

[starleen2]

maybe this will help:


As you can see with the hatch fully extended you have a portion that really does not need to be there (salmon shaded area) Remember that this is going to be on both sides and is dead lifting weight

[mikeschn]

One thing to watch for is the offset of the main hinge. I would suggest a three to four inches offset so you won’t have the Gap at the top of the hinge area (thank Mike and Gary for this one!)

Here's a pic of the offset hinge...



And here I've turned the side into Plexiglas so you can see the triangular hole that remains covered when you open the hatch.



Mike...

P.S. Scott, the new year is creeping up on you. Do you have another build planned?

[mikeschn]

Russ,

How about something like this? (Sorry about the pic size... I can't resize it, it degrades too much...)





Mike...

[Ageless]

Another thought; use the old style auto trunk hinge which are spring loaded to help raise the hinged top

[rxc463]

Thanks for the input folks! I am excited! I did some paper modeling yesterday and came up with a profile that I am quite pleased with. It has ended up a bit more aerodynamic and pleasing to my eye than the rest. Alas it has curves which I was going to try to avoid but I now have the help of an experienced body man that can do wonders with fiberglass.
As soon as I can get my camera back from my kid I'll post a few pics. Should be the next day or so.

Thanks again to all that have replied. Your suggestions keep me thinking. Trying each one helps me explore new ideas, my food for thought. Had it not been for your help, I'm afraid I would have been stuck at the first concept. I'm hoping to move this to the build threads in the next few weeks.
Viva La Evolution!

[mikeschn]

Here was some of my latest thinking on the Optimized Winter Warrior.



I am trying to figure out how to mount a galley in the side of the trailer, not much luck with that yet...

Here it is in the open position... notice the wheel well changed?


Mike...

[Wolfgang92025]

Mike,

I keep coming up with such great designs.

Wolfgang

[kludge]

Russ,

How about something like this? (Sorry about the pic size... I can't resize it, it degrades too much...)





Mike...

I like this a lot!

[rxc463]

Still working on some of the details of the Highlander. It has come to be very similar to the O.W.W in profile (thanks Mike). Trying to decide on an ellipse or plain semi circle arc for the nose. The lazy susan swing out galley has got me thinking also. Going to see if my pencil sketches will scan ok, and try to post tomorrow.

[rxc463]

First of all, sorry for the delay in posting. Got a little side tracked. So here it is hopefully in it's final rendition. I know it's not groundbreaking design, but I think it will work well for us and be able to use the frame we have. It is very similar to the OWW except for the size. After dabbling with the hatch design, I found one that pleases my eye and also gives me the stand up headroom at the edge of the bed space that I wanted. Pretty much resigned to the fact that some lifting aide will probably be needed.

The Highlander will be a full 80" wide inside to accommodate a real queen size bed in a crosswise configuration. Planning a galley space with room for a coffee pot, a small microwave and a sink only as we do not plan to actually cook inside but would like the minimum ability to heat something up if the weather forced us inside. Still undecided at this point as to whether or not we want a micro fridge. There are so many ready to eat options available that we will probably only need a cooler to keep our drinks cold. most of our trips are going to be in the 2-3 day stay range and will likely be in established campgrounds.
I'm going to be putting down a full size floor plan in the basement to work out the rest of the interior placements for the shower/potty room and storage. I think I will do a full size wall template also to help with overall scaling. Cardboard and duct tape are such wonderfully inexpensive mediums to work in and just the ticket for curing winter boredom.

Can anyone suggest a spar size and spacing for that 80" span