Stainless Steel skin ??

[Rock]

Ha! Indestructo-tear. If it's really that cheap go for it unless weight is a major concern. It will be a b!tch to polish but personally I would just let it age gracefully and gather a nice patina over then next 100 years or so.

One final thing - keep in mind any galvonic reaction with other metals, in particular any aluminum hardware or trim. Not sure how you would seal the corners unless your going to brake up your own edge molding and then try to bend it to shape. I think you're looking at a LOT more work over Aluminum but worth it in the long haul I guess.


Eric

[wannabefree]

Oh boy. I'm going to throw a little more water on the fire, then go away and never look at this thread again.

"In the shop," meaning a sheet metal fabricator, they have shears 8 feet long, notchers, flangers, pan brakes, punches, seam rollers and many other tools meant to handle large pieces of metal. In the garage you've got hand shears and vise grips.

Just think about it. I'm outta here.

[wannabefree]

OK, I lied. I'm feeling poster's remorse. Don't misunderstand me. I think working with SS will be many times harder than aluminum. Not impossible, just a lot harder. The results may be worth it. I would love to see the finished product when you get 'er done.

Now, I'm really outta here!

[Ageless]

20 gage = .0359

Now unless this is full hard 304 CRES . . . . .and yer not wanting to form a 1/16 radius . . . . . .this is a no-brainer

[georgedombeck]

Its pretty soft stuff. I'll dig it out of the pile tomorrow.

[Classic Finn]

20 gage = .0359

Now unless this is full hard 304 CRES . . . . .and yer not wanting to form a 1/16 radius . . . . . .this is a no-brainer

To the metal expert Ageless. Ive got samples of CRS here at home. thickness of 0.04, 0.05 and 0.06. And that be in millimeters.

Now dont tell me what gauge they are But Im contemplating on using the 0.05 mm. since Im using ply for the backing it doesnt have to be very thick.

Also for George, Ed Ester out of Washington or was it Oregon has used stainless on many of his tears without any galvonic problems at all. Nice ones too at that.

Also there has been a few motorcycle tears built here with Crs as the term used. With this edge trim such as I show below is used on the edges or corner moulding and no reaction has occured with using aluminum edge moulding with stainless.

Rubber / Butyl Combination rubber seal is used under the trim or moulding.
This rubber seal is conformed to the moulding shape. This method is used on Caravans here too. In this way the trim has no contact with the stainless or CRS

Yes stainless is a bit harder to work with but Ive played with it for some time. In my case this time Im having a CNC cutter to cut our profile at the same time with the ply to get an even and correct size.

In addition to this. Ive got a set of so called "pop rivet" drill bits that cut into stainless steel like butter. It cuts through steel very well also and without difficulty. I,ll take a few photos of it for you. Dont know what name they would go under in the States.





Here is the moulding that Im using with our tears. The rubber seal fits nicely under this. Another way is to use a wide rubber fender welt and under it use butyl tape to have the same outcome as I have shown.



Also here is one of Ed Esters tears that I mentioned and he uses normal aluminum moulding on the edges without any problem.



George go for it..

[Classic Finn]

OK, I lied. I'm feeling poster's remorse. Don't misunderstand me. I think working with SS will be many times harder than aluminum. Not impossible, just a lot harder. The results may be worth it. I would love to see the finished product when you get 'er done.

Now, I'm really outta here!

Hey there Arizona Wannabefree I,ll be glad to show you photos of the tears I plan on using stainlees to.

[Ageless]

The drill bits are likely vanadium steel; referred to in the trade as 'stoveburners'

[Classic Finn]

The drill bits are likely vanadium steel; referred to in the trade as 'stoveburners'

I,ll take a look at the info from the package but boy do they work nicely.

Here,s one in this website - photo on right.
Its the same size as I have and also have few smaller diameter ones.

http://www.so-tarvike.fi/popniitti-pora ... ksbc454751

[Ageless]

ummmmmm

Are you sure you have that material thickness right? 0.05 mm is only 0.002 inches thick . . .more like foil.


0.5 mm is 020 inches which is 25 gage

[Classic Finn]

ummmmmm

Are you sure you have that material thickness right? 0.05 mm is only 0.002 inches thick . . .more like foil. (My typo) Sorry.


0.5 mm is 020 inches which is 25 gage

Here on this sample its says 0.5mm & 0.4mm
stainless steel with protection membrane.

[georgedombeck]

So I fooled around with a piece of my stainless today. Thought drilling was going to be a pain. Found an old tool used at work when we did alot of sheet metal work. It looks like a funky pair of plyers, its a hole punch for sheet metal. A little fine tuning and it pops holes in my stainless just fine. I am so happy. No drilling, no shavings, no bit wondering. Cant wait to skin it (her). george

[Cliffmeister2000]

Cant wait to skin it (her). george

Well, get busy! We are waiting for pictures!

[Classic Finn]

So I fooled around with a piece of my stainless today. Thought drilling was going to be a pain. Found an old tool used at work when we did alot of sheet metal work. It looks like a funky pair of plyers, its a hole punch for sheet metal. A little fine tuning and it pops holes in my stainless just fine. I am so happy. No drilling, no shavings, no bit wondering. Cant wait to skin it (her). george

All right way to go. Now photos pleeeeeeeease.

[asianflava]

Found an old tool used at work when we did alot of sheet metal work. It looks like a funky pair of plyers, its a hole punch for sheet metal.

A Roper Whitney Jr Punch? I've got a set laying around here somewhere.