and clamp..Larwyn wrote:afreegreek wrote:OK, lift the throat cover and remove blade. take cold chisel and hammer. place chisel against arbor flange and give good firm hit with hammer.. the harder the better. enjoy equally crappy cuts from every blade you ever buy..Larwyn wrote:afreegreek wrote:actually the "special" sharpening a Forrest needs is called a finer grit grind than what other blade companies and sharpening services use.. the sharpening service I use will do it if requested for a few dollars more.Gary J wrote:I spent the $100+ price on a very nice Forrest combo blade and then read wood magazine's test of blades. They rated the comparable tooth Rigid blades (Home depot) as a better blade at a $40+ price, so I bought one. It is a much narrower blade and makes a smoother cut. I use the Rigid blade most of the time and reccommend it when ever asked. You can purchase almost 3 blades for the price of one Forrest (which is a great blade). When the Rigid blade gets dull I intend to chuck it. The Forrest blade need special sharpening.
Gary
OH, and if you're getting better cuts from a $40.00 blade, there's something wrong with your saw or you have a crap saw because on a good cabinet saw the Forrest blade will make a smoother cut per tooth than ANY blade out there. I get as advertised, smooth as sanded surface with no tear out. in fact the difference is so great that I bring my own blades to work and pay to have them sharpened myself just so I can have the quality of cut I've become used to from them..
most of there blades styles are available in the thin (3/32) kerf too.
If a saw can have a defect that would cause it to cut better with a cheap blade than a "better" blade I want my saw to have that defect!! What is it and how can it be induced in a saw which, unfortunately, is not defective?![]()
My "Unisaw money" is tied up in welding equipment