How to air condition?

[Shadow Catcher]

Considering the volume to be cooled the problem is more likely that you will be short cycling, the compressor running in short cycles and not dehumidifying. We used our AC only once on our trip in Salt Lake city at 100+ and it did fine in cooling down the tear, See the write up under Hacking a Frigidaire

[danlott]

This is a slightly different application, but it may give you inspiration.



Dan

[ArtG5]

For the sake of simplicity (for now), we aren't going to return air to the unit. A single hose will run from the A/C to our fantastic fan vent. My wife made a draw string bag out of PUL that covers the fan vent and accepts the hose from the A/C. One question...is it possible to extend the wire on the temperature sensor that sits on the front of the evaporator coil? I was thinking I'd extend the sensor wire, run it through the hose, and into the teardrop so the A/C can cycle on/off. What I don't know about these two wire sensors is if the extra wire would add a noticeable resistance or impede the function of the sensor.

Thoughts?

I'm an electrical engineering student, so I should know this, but I'm second guessing myself as I don't know if this sensor just varies isn't resistance with temperature changes or if there is something else going on.

[Robbie]

I am also interested in this! I've been thinking of ways to get A/C into my tear but didn't want a permanent setup with holes in the side walls. Running a duct tube up to the roof vent sounds very easy and I'm sure some sort of vent cover could be made to seal off the vent hole. I'm also curious about extending the temperature sensor and/or controls through the tube so you have control of the unit without getting out of the trailer.

[Robbie]

I was just thinking, you could use a vent cover like this one and replace the louvered section with a flat plate and duct inlet tube. Then just add some weather stripping to the bottom and some sort of quick release fastener to hold it to the roof and you would have a premade, non-permanent vent cover to attach the outlet duct from the A/C unit to! Hmmm. Well it looks like A/C just made its way on to my list of things to do!!!!

[aggie79]

I am also interested in this! I've been thinking of ways to get A/C into my tear but didn't want a permanent setup with holes in the side walls. Running a duct tube up to the roof vent sounds very easy and I'm sure some sort of vent cover could be made to seal off the vent hole. I'm also curious about extending the temperature sensor and/or controls through the tube so you have control of the unit without getting out of the trailer.

Robbie,

Another option I've seen is to make an insert to fit into the door opening (the teardrop door is swung wide open) with the supply and return air ducts fastened to the insert.

Regarding the temperature sensor some HVAC units use a mechanical - I believe this is what it is called - thermocouple rather than an electronic temperature sensor. Relocating these are very difficult.

Another possible option is to get a line voltage (120 VAC) thermostat that would cycle the entire unit on and off.

Take care.
Tom

[KristyG5]

Project complete! Here are some pictures!








And the green view from the inside

Our supply list:
-5000 BTU window air conditioning unit
-PUL fabric (polyurethane laminated fabric--I only know of it because we cloth diapered our daughter and it was used for covers and wetbags...if it could hold what came out of her for two years, I was confident in choosing it to hold some cooled air)
-10 feet of RV sewer hose
-Zip ties
-Adhesive and non-adhesive Velcro
-Elastic cord and a drawstring toggle

The A/C and sewer hose were bought on Amazon (free Prime shipping, woo!); zip ties and adhesive Velcro we already had; and the PUL, elastic cord, toggle, and non-adhesive Velcro we bought at Joann Fabrics. All together we're about $150 in for this A/C project. Our goal with it is to cool the trailer when temps are 80F+ when we're falling asleep. I like my A/C set to 74 at night when I'm sleeping at home.

Essentially I sewed a drawstring bag from PUL, cut a hole in the side and zip-tied the sewer hose on, applied adhesive Velcro around the output of the A/C, sewed Velcro around a rectangle of PUL, and cut a hole in that and zip-tied the other end of the hose on.

It works AWESOME. We just tested it this evening. It was about 85F in our garage and we hooked it up for around 10 minutes on high. We didn't have a thermostat for the inside (my husband is considering extending the A/C's to reach into the trailer), but it felt super nice and cool, maybe around 70-75F. There's a little air loss at the Velcro, and a little at the cinched part around the vent, but it pushes that cold air into the trailer no problem in spite of that. We'll cover the front of the A/C with a tarp since it's not meant to be in the elements, but I'm trusting the PUL to hold out any rain (see aforementioned what I know it can hold in).

We're taking it out camping for the first time this weekend! Can't wait!

[jeffmutch]

I built a similar setup just yesterday for my TTT using only a single vent to bring the cold air into the window opening. I found that my 5000 btu unit would overheat within 20 minutes and was unable to get started again without a very long break to cool down the compressor. It was 102 degrees and in direct sunlight for the test.. my conclusion is that the A/C unit appreciates cycling through the air it has already worked so hard to cool, rather than constantly sucking hot air and blowing the cold away never to be seen again. I've decided to built a "false door" out of foam and/or plywood and cutting a section out for the A/C to be installed the way it was designed, but elimating the need for a permanent installation. Its another scorcher today so It'll be a trial by fire. (literally!)

[KristyG5]

We're only planning on using it at night, and at the speed it cooled down the trailer I think we'll schedule the A/C unit to do short bursts on and longer breaks. Hopefully we'll avoid freezing it up! I'm glad we splurged a bit on the unit with more settings/options.

[pmowers]

Kristy,
Clever idea to make use of fabric, one could match the color-scheme of their trailer . I modified my ac by blocking the louvers and mounting a "dryer dock" over a hole cut in the top of the cover. but your idea keeps the ac unit intact for "normal use".

[KristyG5]

...but your idea keeps the ac unit intact for "normal use".

That was definitely one goal: "don't ruin anything beyond resale potential." Haha! Now if only the fabric store had PUL in non-babyish colors/patterns...

[pmowers]

Haha! Now if only the fabric store had PUL in non-babyish colors/patterns...

Hancock used to have some coated nylon fabric in other than "decorator" colors ( I used to design and make camping gear ). You may also be able to "repurpose" a ground cloth or coated tarp in a more appropriate color. I have also seen shower curtains made of coated material. Alternatively, you could use about any fabric and brush it with k-coat, which is used to waterproof tents. I would check with a place that makes or sells tarps near you, you may be able to get a scrap piece of suitable size for free.

Pat

[CliffinGA]

One thing for you think on and you will find this out in several different ways is the tear wil be wet in a couple of these scenarios:
A: Running the air in thru the ducting with out a return line, your breathe at night in the tear will caise condensation to form on the inside, and in the ducting from a/c to tear. Thats how I ruined my first 5000 btu ac, the water built up in the hose amd since it was [usshing air up to the vent the condensation ran back down the hose and eventually worked its way into the electrics of the unit and fried it. Also its not fun waking up to water coating the walls and ceiling and dripping everywhere.

B: We also tried the method where we made a big door insert and just left one door open on one side and inserted the a/c mounted into the fixed door insert. This one worked well til the better half woke up screaming because her whole side of mattress was soaked, the a/c was situated with it angled down so it drained thru into the inside of thr tear.

Cliff

[Jkester]

Cliff,
I was planning on making a "boot" to connect between the AC and the door window but ran out of time before our maiden trip last week. I ended up setting the unit on a table and just blowing into the window. It worked well seemed to cycle on and off because some of the cold air would hit the door and be pulled back into the AC return. I do have a remote control for our air conditioner since it would be a pain to go out the other side, walk around the teardrop and adjust anything in the middle of the night.

Right now, i'm not thinking that I will be making any adjustments other than making some sort of "umbrella" to go over the AC to protect it from rainstorms.


James in Virginia

[streetrod23]

Kristi We have used the 5K window unit for 2 years now in up to 40 deg celcius ( Canada eh) I started out just venting it through the window with a simple plywood adapter to make sure it would work. We keep the roof vent open an inch or so and no issues with humidity etc. It works great and VERY simple. We only bring the unit when we feel we will need it. I later put it throught the wall with a simple marine vent. I added a rv deflector on the inside and can direct the air where needed. We have added handles to the unit and carry it like a cooler. I had trouble posting pics but if you pm me I will send you both the window set up and the current throught the wall...We purchaed the unit at the end of the season for $ 60.00 less that we paid for the fantastic fan.
I have also removed the controls from the unit and mounted them in the trailer extending the wiring with a plug style disconnect, that way we can operate it from the trailer..