Wall thickness considerations

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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Kim Armstrong » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:17 am

Well I have considered both and was wondering if my thinking is right. :? If you consider the square inches in a wall then put in two factory built doors which I'm guessing is mostly glass, then put your cabinets in, that doesn't leave much wall left whether it's insulated or not. What do you all think?
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby len19070 » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:49 am

Kim Armstrong wrote:Well I have considered both and was wondering if my thinking is right. :? If you consider the square inches in a wall then put in two factory built doors which I'm guessing is mostly glass, then put your cabinets in, that doesn't leave much wall left whether it's insulated or not. What do you all think?



I think your reasoning is sound Kim.

No matter how good your insulation is as soon as you put a window or a door in you've broken the "R" value up.

Even on a stick built wall the wood and insulation are different and that breaks the "R" values

Glass is not only, NOT an insulation but is a conductor.

Its like wearing a good Down jacket...with holes in it.

Your floor and roof are the important areas. For the side walls I use a foam backed rug and its fine. Its one piece, consistent and has no breaks in it except for the door (s) and windows.

Even in your house the sidewalls are about 1/3 the "R" value of the roof. ("R" 11-13 sidewalls..."R" 30-38 roof)

Some of mine.
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Image

Image



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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Kim Armstrong » Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:02 am

Just wondering, What does the little black dot out to the left mean at the start of this subject?
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby KCStudly » Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:59 pm

Kim Armstrong wrote:Just wondering, What does the little black dot out to the left mean at the start of this subject?


Kim, Check your messages. I think I may have OT answer for you. :thumbsup:
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Ira » Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:47 pm

Sorry to go against the grain here, but there's a reason that all homes...and manufactured RVs...have insulation, or at least vapor barriers.

This has nothing to do with heat retention, but humidity/moisture control.

Insulation keeps the wet stuff out, and COOLS your TD in hot weather--regardless of some gaps in the doors, doors which should be insulated anyway.
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby len19070 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:38 am

There are many things that insulation does, other than insulate against heat and cold.

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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby fcreamer88 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:36 am

Glad I'm not the only one stuck between a wall and....well, a wall. :lol:
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Woodbutcher » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:00 am

I just finished my 3rd teardrop. Because I tow with an Jeep Wrangler and was going to the mountains I tried to keep the weight down. I opted for no insulation and no inside skin. Just a 1/4" outer skin. The weather in the mountains of Wyoming got to below freezing a few nights. Most were in the 40's. I used no heater of any kind. I slept on an 8" foam mattress with a big quilt and a wool blanket for emergencies. I used it twice. I cracked a window or the roof vent and never found condensation to be a problem. I doubt I will insulate any future builds. Everywhere I camped there were people in tents and popups. I felt fortunate to have a solid wind proof dry place to sleep. These are just my thoughts and findings. Others may differ.

Here is what the inside looks like....

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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:08 am

Steve, hat's a really pretty, clean looking, and functional interior. You are so talented!
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby KCStudly » Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:44 pm

Damn he makes it look easy. How come all the gaps are even and all of the joints are tight? Where are all of the smudges and marks from handling the wood during fab? No splotches in the finish either?

Riddle me this, Butcher man. But seriously, that is such a sweet camper and the voice of experience talking. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Ah ha, this from Steve's profile, "Occupation: Self Employed Cabinet Maker".

That explains a lot! :applause:

Everyone claims that pictures hide a lot, and I suppose that must be true to a degree, but we all can also tell when the difference is so obvious. Great design, great work, great outcome. :beer:
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:26 pm

Steve is THE MASTER.

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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby fcreamer88 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:37 pm

That looks amazing! I know my carpentry skills are nothing in comparison to this! If I frame, I'll definetly have to have an internal skin to cover all my boo boos and oops'. I'm more of the "if you can't see it, it don't matter" kind of craftsman. :lol:
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby Woodbutcher » Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:37 am

Thanks everyone, I thought I could offer some advise that could help people make a decision.
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby KCStudly » Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:44 pm

Woodbutcher wrote:I thought I could offer some advise that could help people make a decision.


Yeah, we kind of skipped over that part. As soon as you showed us another picture of your beautiful craftsmanship, we turned into drooling zombies and lote are heads!
:frightened: :R :lol:
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Re: Wall thickness considerations

Postby rowerwet » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:00 pm

my sidewalls are 1/4" 1x2 and 1/4" ply sandwiches, with insulation wedged into all of the voids (I fail to see the need to glue it in) my next build will be just the 1/4" outer skin and 1x2 framing with foam board in the voids and carpet for the inner wall. If I choose to change some thing I can just cut away carpet and foam and glue a 1x2 where I need it. I used PLpremium as the only adhesive holding it all together (no screws or nails) for Storm Warning, for my next build I may use marine epoxy.
I fail to see the need for a thicker wall, I build boats that are just 1/4" plywood and they see more pressure than a trailer sitting on a frame being towed through the air.
3/4" ply seems like wicked overkill to me, even cookie cut to make it lighter. for door frames and windows just add an inner ring of plywood to make any depth you need
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