Chassis Completed Today

[Ira]

That's weird, because sealing the bottom of mine was the EASIEST part of my build. And sticking the insulation in there was a breeze.

You're doing it differently, I surmise. All I did was use the roofing emulsion, wait a day, cut the insulation, wedge it in there, and stick a couple of screws and washers from the underside to hold.

THEN I dropped and attached it to the chassis.

[cracker39]

That sounds like you have the foam sandwiched between the plywood floor and the frame. I attached my floor directly to the frame, and now, I am having to piece it into the openings underneath. I was afraid that the foam might someday deterioriate and I'd end up with a space between the floor and frame, causing problems.

So, I am sticking pieces of foam inbetween the rails and cross members, and putting sealant around all the edges and joints where there are two pieces touching and where the foam meets the steel, to keep water from getting underneath the foam. And, I have joints in the plywod floor that are covered by 3/4" x 4" wood strips for reinforcement. Most TDs have one piece floors and don't have joints like I do. Where there is a wood strip, I have to put the foam on either side of it. I thought I'd overlap over the strip with another piece of foam, but I may just leave them uncovered as they are protected by the roofing compound.

I am going to get some 3/16" x 1 1/2" screws and fender washers to put through the foam into the floor bottom to make sure the foam doesn't come loose. The foam has the foil side down, and since all edges are sealed, I don't think the foil will separate from the foam. I'll have to check it occasionally, and if it gets damaged, I'll put the roofing compound on it too.

[cracker39]

A postscript to that one. I suppose in restrospect, I could have put 2" x 3/4" strips on the floor bottom, where it touched the rails and cross members, then I could have put foam insidee the strips before I put it on the chassis. That would have made the job a lot easier, but, would also have added 3/4" to the height. It would have also given me more floor thickness to attach the walls to. Something to think about the next time, right?

[asianflava]

What are you doing up at this hour?

[bledsoe3]

Rocky, I thought that you and I were the only ones up this late.

[cracker39]

I often wake up in the wee hours and get up for a while until I feel sleepy enough to go back to bed. Usually, I turn on the PC and maybe work a little on my plans, update my cost spreadsheet, check out the messages here, etc. I guess it's old aga insomnia setting in.

[asianflava]

Rocky, I thought that you and I were the only ones up this late.

Actually I was working on the trailer tonight. Sprayed the inside with poly and made a journal entry. Busy night for me. I wonder if the new neighbors noticed the compressor kicking on at 1:00AM.

[cracker39]

After another trip to HD for more sealant, adhesive, and fender washers, and a couple more hours on my back underneath, my bottom of the floor is done. Did I perform overkill again? Could be, but I am satisfied that it should retard moisture.

I coated all seams, joints, and exposed foam edges with the poly sealant. All cutouts where my floor bolts protruced past the foam have been treated with Great Foam sprayed in the openings. Finally, I put some screws with fender washers in a few places to make sure it doesn't fall out. I had two pop up campers, one tent top and one Coleman hard top, and both only had undercoated plywood on the bottom. It never occurred to me to put anything else under it. So, mine, and most of the trailers built here, have more than many manufacturers put under their floors.

I didn't buy the Sikaflex or 3M 5200, but got some cheaper PL polyeurothane window, door, and siding sealant with a 50 year guarantee (like I'll be around 50 years from now to make good on it). Now, finally, I am ready to take it to the "work shop", such as it is, to start putting it together. I'll start ordering and collecting the electrical stuff so I'll have it to integrate with the skins and insulation.

[Ira]

Yep--it's overkill. When you're done, that thing is going to FLOAT.

And I didn't realize you were gonna get the 5200 or Sik for THAT.

NO WAY! YOU DON'T NEED IT!

Dale, all a lot of us did was, before attaching the frame and floor to the chassis, was to coat the bottom with the roofing stuff, and stick pieces of insulation between the wooden cross members of the floor. We didn't additionally seal the edges or anything.

Did you ever work for NASA!?

[cracker39]

Did you ever work for NASA!?

As a matter of fact, I did. At least, I worked for Federal Electric, who was contracted to NASA. Between 1967 and 1074, I was a Sr. computer operator at Cape Carnival on the main frames that collected pre-flight data on all of the Appolo and Geminii launches. We collected and reduced the data from the space crafts from about 24 hrs prior to launch, right up to launch. That's when Houston took over the monitoring of the space crafts. Man, did I make some overtime during launches. We worked 16 hour shifts for two days on each launch and the launch tests we went through a few days prior to each launch. I'd make more than a week's pay in two days.

Any more questions???

[cracker39]

Oh, here's one of my souveniers. I have something from every launch. Someday, I'll scan and photograph and make a web page of my momentos from the Cape.

[asianflava]

That's cool Dale.

[cracker39]

I got my trailer with the sides and lumber pieces on it backed under my boat canopy. Now, I find that the sides will hit the canopy frame overhead if it stays on the wheels. I considered my options, and the easiest seems to be to remove the wheels, and lower it onto concrete blocks with pieces of 1 by on them (8 3/4" high). Then, I can manage to complete the sides and roof under there. To get it out to paint it, I'll have to lower it a bit further, and roll it out on the hubs on pieces of 2x6, then jack it back up outside and put on the wheels. What a way to run an airline.

[critter]

hey cracker,
your a whole lot smarter than i am if i had thought of that i could have made mine lighter and put a trolling motor on the front and one of them little seats and i could have a dual duty teardrop. hey mike can you come up with a design for a bass fishin tear?